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I need somone to explain a few financial things.

mdl

NAXJA Forum User
Location
natick MA
I need some help, now I'm possibly looking to buy a brand new 07 Ducati monster 695 or an 06 Ducati monster 620. What I don't understand are all their financial terms such as APR. What is usually the process in purchacing a new bike/car? And finally, I also don't have any credit, what are some good tips to get great credit?

My finances are a mess. I need help. :D
 
mdl said:
I need some help, now I'm possibly looking to buy a brand new 07 Ducati monster 695 or an 06 Ducati monster 620. What I don't understand are all their financial terms such as APR. What is usually the process in purchacing a new bike/car? And finally, I also don't have any credit, what are some good tips to get great credit?

My finances are a mess. I need help. :D

APR stand for Annual Percentage Rate. I believe you want the lowest APR when taking out any kind of loan. I don't know how it works though.

Good tips on getting credit is getting a credit card, a cell phone plan, small personal loans, ect.
 
mdl said:
I need some help, now I'm possibly looking to buy a brand new 07 Ducati monster 695 or an 06 Ducati monster 620. What I don't understand are all their financial terms such as APR. What is usually the process in purchacing a new bike/car? And finally, I also don't have any credit, what are some good tips to get great credit?

My finances are a mess. I need help. :D

I would say if your finances are a mess hold off on the bike...
The dealership should be able to hook you up with a bank (they should do all the paper work for you).

Look into insurance before you buy you might be surprised at the amount you will have to pay for full coverage. The Monster's insurance isn't as bad since it has less plastic, but it may still catch you off guard.
 
By a mess I mean non existant. It was only recently I got myself a debit account. I have the money, I just don't understand procedures..

I've been looking a bikes for about a year now, know all the goods/bads about the types of bikes, insurance and all that fun stuff. I'm registered over at TMW. But thanks for the concern.

And aparently I don't understand spelling ether :D
 
Shop around a bit, the dealer may jack the APR up a point or two, check out what your banks APR is. Basically the more you put down the less interest you will pay. I always put down 50% on bikes, payed them off as fast as possible and then traded them in every 1-2 years. Only HD's hold their value as long as it is taken care of, all other bikes take an immeadiate 30% hit as soon as you wheel it out the door.
The other advantage you have is with the debit card from your bank they may drop the APR a point if you use the direct pay where they automatically withdraw the monthly payment on an agreed upon day.
Don't ever get a credit card like master card, not at 19%+ interest rates and don't be fooled by the 6 month introductory rate, they use that to lure you in, you can bury yourself in one heck of a hurry. If you NEED a credit card go with an AMEX where you generally have to pay it off every month except on bigger ticket items and while their interest is high it's about 8% below the credit cards. Just a plain green $50 a year amex.
It amazes me that schools teach 'equal rights and all the other politically correct BS but don't teach you how to manage money, guess thats a good deal for the financial industry, they don't want educated consumers seeing how much they are getting ripped off..
Also READ the loan paperwork, banks are not there because they are nice people, they are there to make money...
 
OK so the interest is what I would end up paying extra? That's not as bad as I thought, I could finance $4,000 for 24 months and only pay $400 extra. That's at a crappy 9.5%.


OK one more question guys, you have been very helpful. What is a good APR for a bike purchace?
 
I think the 'best' rates will be found at a credit union... The snag with those is that you usually have to fit in some type of 'group' to join a credit union... and as a rule they have a bit more stringent requirements on loans.

My credit union's rate for a new or used motorcycle is 8.25% if doing the payroll deduction or 8.75% if paying directly.

http://www.ncsecu.org/Products.aspx?page=2&item=14&Name=cntlMotorcycle

9.5% isn't great, but not too bad considering you are establishing credit. Rich P has some good insight: Try to scrounge up the largest down payment you can... as well as set the loan term as short as you can stand. He was trading-up often, but if you plan to keep the bike for awhile, then it's less an issue.

If this your first bike, keep a budget in mind for some decent riding gear. (Helmet, gloves, boots, at least) and take the MSF basic course. These classes are great for new, returning, or even experienced riders. http://www.msf-usa.org/

Have fun!
 
I took the MSF class and passed about three weeks ago :) . My score was a 4 because I put my foot down in the uturn (damn dirtbike habit :D). Got my licence in the mail this morning. I have the helmet, goves, boots, jacket, pants, the whole shabang. Thanks for the insight woody.
 
mdl said:
OK so the interest is what I would end up paying extra? That's not as bad as I thought, I could finance $4,000 for 24 months and only pay $400 extra. That's at a crappy 9.5%.


OK one more question guys, you have been very helpful. What is a good APR for a bike purchace?

With the way interest rates are now, I would say anything under 10 is good for a bike purchase.
 
Interest rates change, and are on the way up now. I agree that anything under 10% on a bike loan is probably OK, but it will very likely be more if you have no credit established. Most banks don't loan to first time buyers, so it will likely go to a finance company at a higher rate. This isn't really a big deal, since the loan amount is fairly small, and this loan will get your credit established.

As far as establishing credit, a small vehicle loan is the best way to start, since the dealership will help you secure the loan. Get a credit card from the bank you have an account with since their interest rate will usually be better than the big card companies that send out all the junk mail. The low rates in most (if not all) of the ones that come in the mail will go away if you're ever 10 days late on your payment or if you go slightly over your limit, then the rate goes to the maximum. Read the fine print and don't ever take a card with those conditions. Once you get your first loan, then there is only one way to get good credit.......make sure you make all of your payments on time.

Have fun with the bike.
 
mdl said:
Can you give me an example of how the APR effects the final ammount you pay?

Think of it this way: you pay a percentage to borrow the money. The more the percentage the more you pay. The lower the monthly payment at any given percentage rate, the more you pay in the end, because you will be borrowing the money for longer.

The best hands-on way to get this clear, I think, is to find a simple loan calculating program. There are numerous such programs available as freeware, I think, and a number of free java apps and the like on the web. Then if you plug in the factors, you can see exactly what effect different plans have.

From the simple standpoint of paying the least gross amount in the end, you should figure to pay as much as you can as fast as you can. Ideally, that means you should save up the money and pay cash, of course, but this entails what is commonly known as "opportunity cost." That is, once you spend your money you can't spend it on anything else. If you borrow money you haven't spent off the opportunity to spend your other money. The mistake most people make in calculating this sort of thing is that they count the money spent as gone forever, while they count the money borrowed as paid back monthly. On the other hand, if you count your ability to make a monthly payment as a constant, then if you spent your own money and then replenished it at the same rate you would otherwise have paid off a loan (in other words, borrow from yourself), you come out ahead of any other loan program unless the APR is ridiculously low, or free.

It just could be that desmodromic valves are worth a little sacrifice!
 
If I could go back in time I'd do two things, one I'd give my back in time self a big winning lottery number, the second thing I would do is shoot the sob that came up with the 'compound interest' concept....that is THE single biggest cause of being in dept, poeple don't understand how compound interest vs simple interest works.
 
ok dont know if you are still in school or anything but a school loan can be used. thats what i used to buy my jeep and the interst rate is like 6 %
 
I'm not in school but that is deffinatly somthing to look into. Thanks for the help everyone, now I don't feel so uneasy going into this without knowing my stuff.
 
First off, your calculations are wrong. If you borrow $4,000 for 4 years at 9.5% you will not be paying about $400 extra. You will be paying more than twice that much. Your monthly payment will be about $100.50. Take that times 48 an you'll see that you're paying more than $800 in interest.

Here's a forumla that you can plug into a spreadsheet to calculate your monthly payments on a loan (it may be off by a couple of cents from what the bank will tell you, but it will be very close):

=((((C3*(C5))/12)/(1-(1/((1+((C5)/12))^(C4*12)))))*100+0.5)/100

C3=original loan amount
C4=term of the loan (length of the loan in years)
C5=interest rate (0.095 would be 9.5%)

The following is going to be long, but it'll pay you greatly in the long run to read it. I made all of the usual mistakes when I was young. I learned from my mistakes. I hope others can learn from my mistakes as well, instead of just making the same ones over.

RULE NO. 1: Pay yourself first! If you are not putting anything at all into savings, the very first thing you MUST do is start! Even if it's only $10 a month, at least that's a beginning. There is always a way to squeeze a few dollars a month for savings, if you really want to. It doesn't matter how much you earn, you will NEVER be rich if you can't live within your means. It doesn't matter how little you earn, you WILL be rich if you CAN live within your means!

The best and easiest way to pay yourself first is if the company you work for has a 401k program--GET INTO IT!!! If they will match some of your contribution then you are STUPID if you don't contribute enough to get as much as they are willing to match!

RULE NO. 2: Pay off credit cards each and every month! Credit card debt is the main reason that most Americans can't get ahead. They go out and buy stuff they can't afford just because they can charge it and only pay a little each month (more on this in rule no. 4). What they don't realize is that each month's payment is MOSTLY interest and hardly any of it goes to paying off the debt. This is the fastest, easiest, and STUPIDEST way to get into debt that there is!

RULE NO. 3: Use credit cards wisely. Rule no. 2 does not mean that you shouldn't have or use credit cards. The way to build up a good credit record is to use credit wisely. Get credit cards, but pay them off in full each month. Borrow money, but be sure you can afford the payments, and be sure that you're borrowing it for purchases that are worth what you're paying. Build up good credit and you'll have doors opened to you in the future; the most important one being that, with a good credit rating, when you're ready to buy a house, banks will be falling all over themselves to give you the very best rates and the lowest closing costs out there.

RULE NO. 4: Never purchase ANYTHING based on the monthly payment. The sales people can make the monthly payment anything you want it to be, just by extending the length of the loan. I can sell you that Ducati for $50/month, and bleed you dry at a 15% interest rate. All I have to do is make it a 20 year loan! The sales people WILL take advantage of you if you let them talk to you in terms of monthly payment. Negotiate a purchase price FIRST, and only then talk about financing.

RULE NO. 5: Never, EVER allow yourself to be "upside down" on any depreciating asset. "Upside down" means that you owe more on it than it is worth. This is not a very good idea on a house, which usually goes up in value. It is an EXTREMELY bad idea on anything like a car, boat, motorcycle, or anything else that steadily goes down in value. In order to stay "rightside up" on car, bike, etc. loans you have to make a substantial down payment (20% at least, 30% is better) and you have to keep the term of the loan relatively short (4 years at the MOST! 3 years is better).

Good luck!
 
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wow i just started building credit a year ago with my jeep. i have had a cell plan in my name for almost 2 and i have an excellent account through knoxville police department credit union... and i pretty much got laughed at when i tried to get a loan for a new motorcycle a month ago.... and you have no credit and want to get a new ducatti??? co-signer??? let me know how u get it if u do....
 
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