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I need help... another problem

Joe R.

NAXJA Forum User
Surprise AZ
For those of you at the event in North Adams a couple weekends ago, you know that I bought a 2" block kit for my Jeep. I installed it tonight and I went for a test drive. I got out of my driveway, it shuddered leaving, but I thought it would go away if I went a little faster.. I got to about 25 and the jeep starts shaking very violently, and before I know it my driveshaft is on the ground and my rear end is clunking. I swear, this cannot be good... I know I am a REAL Dumbass for trying to put a 5" lift in the rear of a 95 XJ, I knew it from the start.. I didnt think it would get that bad. Even when I tryed to slow down, it just got worse.. I got about 1/16 of a mile down the road before I came to my hault. I drove it home very slowely in 4wheel.... with my cinch strap cradeling my rear driveshaft... I got it home about 1 hour ago... I called it quits after I tore the driveshaft out. I have no clue what the damage is. I did jack it up to turn the wheels to see is the diff was ok.. I am afraid it isnt. I cannot spin the wheels by hand, but the Jeep does roll, it clicks tho. I have a feeling I broke some teech and possibly screwed up my bearings... The Transfercase output seams OK... although, the seal is torn., and there is a little chip out of the case. Please, I would appreciate it if anyone could hook me up with some parts or point me in the right direction or even just tell me ideas of what went wrong... I obviously know that my driveshaft and output shaft were too short... Thank you so much guys.. please, if you have parts like a rear axle I could throw in temporarily, let me know my phone is 1-203-401-8326 Thank you!! I have no clue if my transfer case is damaged either.~Joe~
Sounds like you had ujoint binding...(the clicking) Take a look and see if the ujoint area has fresh gouges on it.

drain the diff and inspect the inside.

Splines look ok on the transfer output?
First off you not a DUMBASS for putting 5" of lift on your rig, after all im at 6" and going to 8" and 35's, and 44 front and rear.

With that said do you have a SYE, if not you probably put too much lift and a really bad angle on the driveshaft and it dropped out from the flex/movement of the axle. The DS yoke going into the x-fer case was puuled way out from the lift and when you sped up it pulled completly out. My advice to you would be to buy a SYE and the problem should be solved.


John B- The U-joint area does have nasty gouges on it... I noticed that right when I took the driveshaft off... so it definately had a bad pinion angle... I just didnt realize what I was doing, and what could happen... Thank God Harwood has a spare Dana 35 that he is going to let me buy... THANK YOU!!!

Stroker- I feel like a dumbass... lol I am just happy Harwood is hooking me up with a new axle.... In the meantime I can build up my 8.25 and hold on to my 2" blocks until I have a SYE...
Joe, slow down here buck.

What makes ya think you need a new rear axle? Did you open and inspect it?

Pinion angle wasnt the problem, lack of an SYE was.

Did you inspect the transfers output shaft?
[quote:7bf018aa90="Joe R."]I did jack it up to turn the wheels to see is the diff was ok.. I am afraid it isnt. I cannot spin the wheels by hand, but the Jeep does roll, it clicks tho. I have a feeling I broke some teech and possibly screwed up my bearings...[/quote:7bf018aa90]

This is why he thinks he needs a rear...Read the whole post bro :lol: :twisted: ...heehee


Be sure your driveshaft is long enough... the D35 has a shorter pinion than your 8.25, so that combined with your lift may make your stock driveshaft too short. Just something to look out for. Maybe see if Eagle has an extra one from a manual tranny equipped XJ (longer rear driveshaft) to go with the D35, or at least the driveshaft from the vehicle that that axle comes from regardless of transmission type.
Back on the road

Eagle got me the Dana 35 out of the parts Jeep... we got it to my house and I got the jeep up in the air.. the axle spins fine (the 8.25) so i figure, stop and just try it out)... Well, I went to put my old driveshaft in and the splines on the slip yoke were shredded... so thank god Harwood bought the driveshaft from the parts xj too.. so I threw that in and the Jeep is ok... We'll see how she runs in the long run....
The driveshaft from the '87 with the Dana 35 is about 1/2 to 5/8 inch longer than the '95 driveshaft, so that should keep things in place for the time being. Joe, I still think you need to be looking at either a SYE or, as a minimum, that extended yoke. The longer yoke will give you a better safety factor when the suspension flexes, and it also has a more open throat so it won't bind up at angles that will kill a stock yoke. Rusty sells it, but I think it's the same as a stock YJ front yoke.

Try to find a stock XJ and look at the amount of slip yoke that's exposed when it's parked. Ideally, you should be aiming to get about the same if you are running a stock driveshaft, and you can tolerate a little more if you get the extended yoke.

Next point: when you are ready to add those 2" back in again (the blocks are out now, right?), I suggest using shackles rather than blocks. If you go with the block, you're still going to have a very severe rear u-joint angle at the pinion. If you use a lift shackle, it effectively drops the back end of the spring relative to the chassis and driveline, which translates to not as severe a u-joint angle at the pinion yoke. Otherwise, you'll have to use shims with the blocks, and I think that's just too many pieces to believe they'll all stay where they belong when you start flexing it off-road.

true eagle... I did take the blocks out.. and I regret buying them, I guess I will look for lift shackles.... how are those ones from advance auto.. they are like 2 pieces of flat aluminum stock with different holes for choice of height... cheap too... maybe a good idea?? they look a little flimsy though.. send me your address so i can send your money.. thank Harwood.