hub bearing assemly replacement

[skog]

i have to replace the assemly this weekend. i just want to get a few details answered. is this the correct order to do stuff.
pull wheel and brakes
pull cotter pin
remove hub nut with 36mm six point socket
remove the 3 bolts on inside of knuckle
remove assemly
reassemble in reverse

is this right
is there a torque spec for the hub nut
is that the right size socket

thanks
skog

 

[Scott Mac]

This way will be easier.

Pull the tire off and remove the center cap.
Reinstall the tire and set back down on the ground.
Remove hub bolt.
Raise tire and remove tire, caliper, rotor.
Remove hub and reasemble.

Hub may be a PITA if it hasn't been off in awhile.
Spread some Antisieze on the hub/knuckle contact area before reinstalling to make future removals much easier.

 

[skog]

thanks now what about torque and socket size

 

[Lou]

36mm is correct. IIRC the torque is 175 ft/lbs for the hub nut, and 75 for the hub bolts.

 

[skog]

175 for the hub nut that sounds really high considering that it is also held on with a cotter pin

 

[ChiXJeff]

175 for the hub nut that sounds really high considering that it is also held on with a cotter pin

The fact that it's kept with a cotter pin doesn't have much to do with torque.

175 is right, and you want to make sure that you get all of it. If you don't, or worse, run without that stub shaft in place, the bearing will come apart.

Antiseize is your friend. Use on all threads, and the splines on the axle shaft as well as the mating surface between the hub and the knuckle.

I have a set of sacrificial hub bolts that I use for removing stubborn hubs. Pull the 3 originals out, and thread the bottom 2 sacrificial bolts in, leaving 1/4" to 1/2" showing. Pound the hub out with a sledge.

 

[Eagle]

I think I posted this a few days ago, but I'll reapeat it here because of the recommendations to use anti-sieze. It's good stuff, and I absolutely agree that you should use it on everything when you reassemble. But ...

... remember that fastener (bolt) torque numbers in the factory service manual are for "clean, dry threads." When the threads are lubricated, the torque should be reduced, and anti-sieze is a thread lubricant.

"How much reduction?" you ask. I used to think it was about 15%, but I recently visited my friendly local specialty fastener company and got to talking about this with the guy behind the counter. He showed me some charts he had, and pointed me at a web site where I was able to download them. It varies a bit, depending on fastener size and grade, but in general the reduction is in the 20% to 25% range.

 

[woody]

Scott Mac and ChiXJeff are on it.

It is easier (with hand tools) to break the nuts on the stubshafts loose (but not remove) before you remove the hubs from the knuckles... If you have 1/2" impact wrench & 36mm, no worries... Also the hub bolts are 13mm-12pt and the caliper bolts are E16 External Torx unless yours has been disturbed.

You will need the hubs snugged back in the knucks before you bring the stubs back up to torque with that 36mm...

This is a great time to do universal joints - ball joints - brake pads - diff seals, or whatever else ails ya up there,

 

[skog]

much to my enjoyment before i took anything apart i was driving around to see if somebody could dianogse the noise form outside the vechile. come to find out the center cap on my factory rims was banging and making all the noise instead of a bad bearing.

thanks for all the info on the replacement

skog