Heads up anyone using high steer brackets like this?

BoringDave

NAXJA Forum User
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http://www.jb4x4.com/store/jbrsb.htm

I have been researching them for my upcoming SOA swap. I was thinking of this one or a more setup. Both are known to be used on xj's. If you have one check it close I have found some posts of them breaking. Also I don't see it listed on Blue torch fabs site anymore. I think my plans now is going to be a DIY z link since I don't much plan on driving mine on the street much if at all.

Dave
 
thats what i WAS going to do.
the blue fab one will NOT work with coils (they hit)

i like the JB one. i sat down and really looked at cost.

i already have the iron rock track bar so im going with the iron rock steering.

things you need to look at be4 buying is:
cost of the JB $150
making steering for the JB (or paying someone) $150-$300
getting a new "over the axle track bar" (to mach the steering for bump steer) $250-$400 ( kit or make it)

then do use the TRE or go jonny joint/ heim add $100-$300

it is a really good idea to get high steer and if you want an over the axle track bar.

the reason i didnt get it:
iron rock TB $150
iron rock steering $350
 
I've been developing a system like this for a while now that does a complete 1 ton conversion.

I'm curious to know what kind of tire sizes were run with the kits that broke, I'm guessing JB's bracket was never designed to withstand really large tires.
 
Here is the tread from jeep forum. And my mistake the kit is made by Rocky Road. And the other is the jb dude

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rocky-road-ott-highsteer-kit-had-repair-safe-1200416/

By no means am I a professional but I don't think the way there trying to weld this thing on is proper. I know the steel has to be china or India made mild, most any we get at work from alliance steel distributors is. And are the knuckles cast what? Steel or forged or just cast?

I think I will be doing a dropped drag link even with the bump steer I feel it's going to work better.

Dave
 
I believe the stock knuckle is 65-45-12 ductile iron. It may be 80-55-06 but I doubt it. Either way not ideal to be welding low carbon steal too.
 
I believe the stock knuckle is 65-45-12 ductile iron. It may be 80-55-06 but I doubt it. Either way not ideal to be welding low carbon steal too.

How about drilling and tapping holes? I would beleave that arm on the knuckle would have a lot less strength?


Dave
 
It probably lost some strength but since people are breaking the brackets before doing damage to the knuckle its most likely not a problem. Theres no issue drilling and tapping ductile iron. I will also add that the welding can be done but it will take some experience.
 
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