Fusible link for 10AWG should be something like 14AWG - the usual rule for fusible links is to go four AWG sizes smaller than the circuit feeder it's protecting.
Failing that, I've had good luck using ANL fuses on alternator output circuits (ref my website...) you simply pick the very next fuse rating up from your alternator's rated max output. For a 90A unit, you'll want an ANL100 fuse. For a 136A unit, get an ANL150.
For a 1997 TJ, you've probably got a 90A alternator (safe guess, anyhow,) so an ANL100 fuse will serve until you're sure. The only things that could cause problems are:
- Regulator short, causing the alternator to "surge"
- Alternator armature short, causing the alternator to "surge"
- Alternator being "bigger than the fuse" - which only causes problems if you're going to draw more than 100A.
The first two are a little more involved, but the latter simply requires replacing the fuse. Since the alternator will only put out the current the regulator tells the unit that the vehicle needs (huh?) it's entirely possible for a 90A alternator to spend most of its life working at 14.5VDC@50A or so. I install high-output alternators not because I need them to run accessories, but because they last longer (working at a lower percentage of rated maxima.)
An ANL fuse block can be mounted anywhere convenient for inspection and service. I put them right near the battery - the alternator goes on one "side" of the fuse, and the rest of the vehicle on the other.
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