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full width or stock width on street driven rigs

jeepfreak1020

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Thornton
I was wondering what everyones takes are on running full width or stock width axles on a rig that is pretty much DD'ed. Is wheeled hard when its out but sees alot of street. Would you guys rather run full width or stock width axles? There really any procs and cons verse the two? I was thinking about this and i figured i would ask everyones take on them.
 
i dont know what the laws are in your country, but in Australia you would last on the street for about 3 milli seconds with full width axles, however it would look kool for those 3 milli seconds
 
But to make it.more.complicated.....

what back spacing.on the wheels?
what trails you trying to run?
what size tire?
extended flares?
 
But to make it.more.complicated.....

what back spacing.on the wheels?
what trails you trying to run?
what size tire?
extended flares?

prob a min back spacing so your not super wide. 4" back spacing.
Mod to hard trails - Holy Cross, Indy, spring creek, moab
37's
depends
 
Hardest trail you said was indy. indy is very doable on stock axles and 35's. so stay stock and save money - you don't need big stuff.

If its all about width. wheels and spacers on a 30 can be similar to a 60 with heavy back spacing.
but a 60 with little backspacing can be retarded wide.
the axle isn't the only component in the assembly that makes the difference.

But based off tire size, trails, and how ya wheel. id say stay stock.

but i did dd on full width. no real difference. it's a jeep with big tires.....
 
I prefer not having full width axles on a rock buggy, and certainly not on a full bodied or street driven rig. The only benefit of full width axles are the price, everything else is a negative. The reason people pay big money for narrower axles rather than using junk yard full width is because it's worth it.

Do full width axles work on the trail? Sure they do, everything works on the trail to some degree or another. The issue isn't if they work, but how they work compared to something else. Axles closer to stock width work better than full width, and they are certainly better to fit under a full bodied street driven rig. To me full width axles under an XJ look weird, and they look cheap. If that's the only way you can afford to get big axles and you want to run hardcore trails, I understand, but if you have a choice stock width axles are much better.
 
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The only benefit of full width axles are the price, everything else is a negative.

Axles closer to stock width work better than full width, if you have a choice stock width axles are much better.

ok so I'm getting the sense that stock width axles are better. which is confusing because everything I've ever read says wider and lower is better. any explaination as to why narrow is better? only complaint I read about full widths is that "I'm worried it wont fit on some trails"
 
Yeah.., I agree with the Aussie guy, in that I think he implied that wider would mean you would have to add some fender flares big enough to cover the tires on a non-stock wide-wheeled DD, or you'd get a fix-it-ticket.., that is.., in most places. Perhaps Thornton is a place where you won't get pulled over by the cops.
 
ok so I'm getting the sense that stock width axles are better. which is confusing because everything I've ever read says wider and lower is better. any explaination as to why narrow is better? only complaint I read about full widths is that "I'm worried it wont fit on some trails"
Low and wide is good, but there is such thing as too wide. Stock width axles with less backspacing is plenty wide for an XJ. As mentioned you could run more backspacing on a full width so it isn't crazy wide, but then you have to worry about bashing your hubs because they will likely stick out farther than the tire.
If you get too wide, not only do you start running into the question of whether or not you can fit, but you will have less choice when it comes to picking good lines on a narrower trail. As far as the tires sticking out, that really just depends on your local laws.
 
full width here, street driven. I'm running H2 wheels so my tires are tucked in pretty tightly compared to guys running steelies with 3.5" BS on tons.

It's wide but it isn't stupid wide

3fkRWl.jpg


idk why imgur absolutely destroyed the contrast in this pic :puke:
 
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full width, 4.75" offset rims, 37's, drive it all the time on the road. I personaly like the extra width on road and off. The Jeep is alot more stable and handles great.
IMG_0349_zps1944ac84.jpg

IMG_0354_zps228d9187.jpg
 
full width here, street driven. I'm running H2 wheels so my tires are tucked in pretty tightly compared to guys running steelies with 3.5" BS on tons.

so does that make lighter, narrower (65" wide), higher GC, 1/2 ton axles a more sensible swap with 35's or 37's?
everyone always says "go tons go tons dont waste money on a 44."
 
so does that make lighter, narrower (65" wide), higher GC, 1/2 ton axles a more sensible swap with 35's or 37's?
everyone always says "go tons go tons dont waste money on a 44."

If you are doing the work yourself, a D60 can be narrowed by shortening the passenger side tube pretty easily. It will cost $250 for a custom length chromo inner (or cheaper if you just have the stock inner shortened) and the time it takes to cut the tube and weld the inner C back on.
 
so does that make lighter, narrower (65" wide), higher GC, 1/2 ton axles a more sensible swap with 35's or 37's?
everyone always says "go tons go tons dont waste money on a 44."

Yes. I got a good deal on my axles but still ended up dumping a lot of money into them. For 35-37 go waggy 44 and 8.8.
 
wish i didnt waste my time on 44's for 35's, wish i went straight to tons.
i'm at 76.5" wide overall, and i love it. my buddy has a 1 ton chevy 4x4 truck with a 14 bolt and d60 with h2 wheels and his is .5" narrower than mine on the same tires.
 
If you are doing the work yourself, a D60 can be narrowed by shortening the passenger side tube pretty easily. It will cost $250 for a custom length chromo inner (or cheaper if you just have the stock inner shortened) and the time it takes to cut the tube and weld the inner C back on.

sadly I don't think I'm quite there yet with the fabrication. I'd probably just end up with H2's and hope I dont bash my hubs

Yes. I got a good deal on my axles but still ended up dumping a lot of money into them. For 35-37 go waggy 44 and 8.8.

that's why I like this forum better than pirate. you guys are actually reasonable :rolleyes:

I have a 30/8.8 and I'm happy with the 8.8. I considered waggy 44 but I think I like 44/9 better for matching bolt pattern, width, HP, etc.
 
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