darthmaul_55117
NAXJA Forum User
Here's an easy one for ya. My '98 XJ 4x4, were in the heck is the fuel filter. My Hanes manual left out the years 98 & 99. Thanks.
Fuel filter
- Thread starter darthmaul_55117
- Start date
- Location
- Westminster, SoCal
1. FYI... Haynes manuall = trouble
2. Fuel filter for recent XJ's (I think they started that in 97... my 98 definately has it) is actually a sock like gismo inside your tank
Not user serviceable... ) or at least not meant to be...
Why are you asking?
Kejtar
2. Fuel filter for recent XJ's (I think they started that in 97... my 98 definately has it) is actually a sock like gismo inside your tank
Not user serviceable... ) or at least not meant to be... Why are you asking?
Kejtar
XJTripp
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- eastern North Carolina
Older XJ's have the sock on the fuel pump inlet as well but they also have a filter and its located on the outlet hose in front of the driver's side rear tire. Its possible you have one at that location as well. It would be an error to not equip a vehicle with a user serviceable filter so I would bet you have one. Just start at the tank and follow the fuel line forward.
satan
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lakewood, CO USA
XJTripp said:
Yeah - it would be -- The filter is serviceable - you just need to swap the sender and pump out at the same time ! (Cha-Ching $$ !)
97XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PONTE VEDRA BEACH,FL.
Sorry to say,Satan is on the money...at least
more than you want to spend.
more than you want to spend.
satan
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lakewood, CO USA
... and I didin't even mention having to lower the tank since this fine piece of re-engineering uses a top-mounted drop-in cartridge system... (can be lowered, though and not fully removed -- best done with little or no gas left in the tank - remember to fill before trying to start... not sure of the fuel level - check with a match! NOT
darthmaul_55117
NAXJA Forum User
The motor is having to turn over longer than normal before it fires up and starts. ( 80,000 mi.) I thought maybe the fuel filter was starting to clog. Screw the filter, I'll try new spark plugs first. And thanks Satan, I'll make sure to check my fuel level with a match, or my propane torch.
- Location
- Westminster, SoCal
actually you might have to go and dig in there anyways... I had a smae problem and what has happened was that my pump wasn't holding a pressure on the line.
Look in the FSM (if you have it, if not let us know) and read through the part that talks about checking the pressure of the fuel line when starting, before starting and after starting...
Kejtar
Look in the FSM (if you have it, if not let us know) and read through the part that talks about checking the pressure of the fuel line when starting, before starting and after starting...
Kejtar
satan
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lakewood, CO USA
Yeah - the longer crank on these XJs can be a function of the one-way valve (integrated into the pump) - not too uncommon to see the rail loose too much pressure -
There is a "work around" where a one-way inline valve can be fitted (I believe that BMWs have such a beast) to the XJ's lines saving you from having to R&R that cartridge assy...
The leak-down numbers for rail pressure escape me, but the FSM and most other manuals will have em if someone doesn't pop-in soon with that data for your '98
There is a "work around" where a one-way inline valve can be fitted (I believe that BMWs have such a beast) to the XJ's lines saving you from having to R&R that cartridge assy...
The leak-down numbers for rail pressure escape me, but the FSM and most other manuals will have em if someone doesn't pop-in soon with that data for your '98
darthmaul_55117
NAXJA Forum User
FSM???? Field Service Manual?? Whatever it is, I don't have one.
XJTripp
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- eastern North Carolina
That's the pits!! I don't even have to drop the tank to put in a fuel pump. For once I'm glad to have an old worn out 89. Are y'all sure about this?- it sounds dumb! This must be the ghost of Renault kicking in. Do they still recommend changing the filter every 30,000 miles?
Sounds like the problem may be the check valve anyway. A clogged filter would not only affect starting but passing manuevers or other high throttle situations. The check valve also requires pulling and replacing the fuel pump. If I had to do that, I'd ditch the catridge Satan refers to and cut in an accessible catridge filter that all the other cars in the world use. Do a pressure leak down test. FSM= Factory Service Manual
Sounds like the problem may be the check valve anyway. A clogged filter would not only affect starting but passing manuevers or other high throttle situations. The check valve also requires pulling and replacing the fuel pump. If I had to do that, I'd ditch the catridge Satan refers to and cut in an accessible catridge filter that all the other cars in the world use. Do a pressure leak down test. FSM= Factory Service Manual
satan
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lakewood, CO USA
Yeah - those things don't play well if they get cavitation -- I'm not sure of the mechanism, but if you've run it hot (empty or close to empty) the check valve and volume drop off --- ordinarlily the volume isn't as much of an issue (like above - it'd be that with passing and WOT operation), the check valve goes,seemingly, right away...
Matthew Currie
NAXJA Member #760
- Location
- Vermont, land of big clay
darthmaul_55117 said:
FSM = "Factory Service Manual." Worth the money.
http://www.techauthority.daimlerchrysler.com/
Judd W. VA
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- new Hope, Va
You need the FSM-
Quality control and engineering what they are/were on these XJ's i'd recommend 110% an official FSM.
Yes, because the engineers redesigned these later fuel systems with no fuel return, they figured there would be a lot less filtration capacity needed- therefore no separate servicable filter. I have found on every vehicle so far (that did not have some type of abnormal problem) with fuel injection, that to replace the fuel filter did not a thing to help the vehicle. Have seen many vehicles go 200k miles while under my care using the OEM filter. There you go...is just what i have personally witnessed many times, so those engineers might not be as stupid as you think.
You can also have an injector leaking down. In other words, drips into the cylinder and lowering the system start-up pressure. If you see black exhaust upon start-up, most likely is that-
Quality control and engineering what they are/were on these XJ's i'd recommend 110% an official FSM.
Yes, because the engineers redesigned these later fuel systems with no fuel return, they figured there would be a lot less filtration capacity needed- therefore no separate servicable filter. I have found on every vehicle so far (that did not have some type of abnormal problem) with fuel injection, that to replace the fuel filter did not a thing to help the vehicle. Have seen many vehicles go 200k miles while under my care using the OEM filter. There you go...is just what i have personally witnessed many times, so those engineers might not be as stupid as you think.
You can also have an injector leaking down. In other words, drips into the cylinder and lowering the system start-up pressure. If you see black exhaust upon start-up, most likely is that-
01xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Live Free or Die
Re: You need the FSM-
Amen to the FSM. Hey Judd - you sound like a QC guy!
Sure you don't work for Lockheed or Boeing ?
Judd W. VA said:
Amen to the FSM. Hey Judd - you sound like a QC guy!
Sure you don't work for Lockheed or Boeing ?
Judd W. VA
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- new Hope, Va
01XJ... On my '98 5-spd....
Have worked on a whole lot of things out there so i am pretty much aware of quality that can and is being used in some vehicles. Is that some parts of these XJ's is pretty horrible, either through poor assembly, poor manfacture, or poor design. I can't help but to think is one reason they considered when deciding not to continue their manufacture.
As an example, at 60k miles the clutch pedal went to the floor leaving me stranded. Seems there is a small 'non-distinct' clip that is used to retain the clutch T/O bearing arm to bell housing. It had broken and the arm just eventually fell away. When replacing that clip i found the arrangement of the arm and pivot ball would not accommodate the clip properly!! No wonder it broke!! Had to carefully modify the arm and pivot ball to better work with that stupid clip. Whew!! Of course the dealer "was not aware of such a problem."
Then there is the speaker wire-in-the-door breaking problem. Seems there is this massive connector right at the pivot point inside that boot which focusses the bending of the wire to the point it breaks all the time.
When doing the Warn hub conversion at ~45k miles, one of the front axle u-joints was already dry!! The other one was close to dry. I am sure in short time if in 4wd in a hard turn that because the joint was dry, it may have been the cause of self distruction. Maybe could also be the source of vibration in a turn due to siezure. The new joints are end greasable.
Then there was the miss-machined axle flanges on both the front AND rear axles- D30 and 8.25. When taking delivery on my slightly used '98 with 38k city only miles, there was a slight rumble at 50 mph i detected on the 2 hour drive home. Turns out the u-joint cap saddles were machined too deeply in both the flanges to where the joint straps would not hold the joint caps tightly allowing the driveshafts to flop around. Was not a problem with the either the u-joints or straps. Due to the slop in the rear flange it wore the joint locating tangs in the flange on the 8.25. Replaced it when installing the Trac-Lok. The original straps were used and was totally tight. On the front axle flange, i surface ground the straps which then allowed adequate tightening- there had not done sufficient flange damage requiring replacement.
See?! Most of these should have been detected upon assembly or over time of assy. Is what appears to me as a serious case of "I don't give a damn." Is this total attention to detail that is possibly the main reason i had acquired such a decent and loyal customer base back in Va. Is just the way i am. Sorry 'bout that- Aaaand there is even more i could tell you about...... But, i still have and like this vehicle- nothing else like it out there.
Have worked on a whole lot of things out there so i am pretty much aware of quality that can and is being used in some vehicles. Is that some parts of these XJ's is pretty horrible, either through poor assembly, poor manfacture, or poor design. I can't help but to think is one reason they considered when deciding not to continue their manufacture.
As an example, at 60k miles the clutch pedal went to the floor leaving me stranded. Seems there is a small 'non-distinct' clip that is used to retain the clutch T/O bearing arm to bell housing. It had broken and the arm just eventually fell away. When replacing that clip i found the arrangement of the arm and pivot ball would not accommodate the clip properly!! No wonder it broke!! Had to carefully modify the arm and pivot ball to better work with that stupid clip. Whew!! Of course the dealer "was not aware of such a problem."
Then there is the speaker wire-in-the-door breaking problem. Seems there is this massive connector right at the pivot point inside that boot which focusses the bending of the wire to the point it breaks all the time.
When doing the Warn hub conversion at ~45k miles, one of the front axle u-joints was already dry!! The other one was close to dry. I am sure in short time if in 4wd in a hard turn that because the joint was dry, it may have been the cause of self distruction. Maybe could also be the source of vibration in a turn due to siezure. The new joints are end greasable.
Then there was the miss-machined axle flanges on both the front AND rear axles- D30 and 8.25. When taking delivery on my slightly used '98 with 38k city only miles, there was a slight rumble at 50 mph i detected on the 2 hour drive home. Turns out the u-joint cap saddles were machined too deeply in both the flanges to where the joint straps would not hold the joint caps tightly allowing the driveshafts to flop around. Was not a problem with the either the u-joints or straps. Due to the slop in the rear flange it wore the joint locating tangs in the flange on the 8.25. Replaced it when installing the Trac-Lok. The original straps were used and was totally tight. On the front axle flange, i surface ground the straps which then allowed adequate tightening- there had not done sufficient flange damage requiring replacement.
See?! Most of these should have been detected upon assembly or over time of assy. Is what appears to me as a serious case of "I don't give a damn." Is this total attention to detail that is possibly the main reason i had acquired such a decent and loyal customer base back in Va. Is just the way i am. Sorry 'bout that- Aaaand there is even more i could tell you about...... But, i still have and like this vehicle- nothing else like it out there.
- Location
- Westminster, SoCal
I hear you that quite a few parts on jeeps could be done a lot better (that speaker wire for one 
) but I must say one thing.... man.... comparing to your 98, damn did I get lucky with mine Kejtar
01xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Live Free or Die
discontinued XJ - the REST of the story.....
Judd - I'm a real skeptic. I think the bean counters discontinued
the manufacture of the XJ using simple math.
Cherokee Sport MSRP $24K, Curb weight, 3130 = $7.52 per lb.
Grand Cherokee MSRP $33K, Curb weight, 3989 = $8.27 per lb.
It can't be that simple, right............?
Judd W. VA said:
Judd - I'm a real skeptic. I think the bean counters discontinued
the manufacture of the XJ using simple math.
Cherokee Sport MSRP $24K, Curb weight, 3130 = $7.52 per lb.
Grand Cherokee MSRP $33K, Curb weight, 3989 = $8.27 per lb.
It can't be that simple, right............?
Judd W. VA
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- new Hope, Va
Good One-
I think you might have something of note there.....
I think you might have something of note there.....
