F&B 68mm Throttle Body

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It is here and once I get organized, photos to follow! This is a machined from billet part and I will be needing to "do something" about my air tube s I suspect it is going to be small...

This is for a Forced Induction application on a 4.0 Litre.

It is interesting to note here that F&B ctually recommended the 70mm as a better choice. Given the pricing is the same regardless of diameter, it was the performance of my rig they were looking to help with.

For those that do not know, these are the guys that built the TBs for Kenne Bell.

Web site for those interested in learning more:
http://www.fbthrottlebodies.com/

Much more to follow, just wanted to get the thread started!
 
Promised Pics!

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P8100064.jpg


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BTW, it is a spare TB, not the one living on my Heep...

Yes a tad larger by 12%
 
Looks like the stock one will fit right inside the F&B. Its is a pretty piece. Do you know if the body is clear anodized?

Does not appear to be as it is a Very Shiny Part. Milled out of a chunk-o-billet. I almost hate to bolt it onto the engine and get it dirty. It came with SAE hardware for the TPS and IAC as well as two hose clamps and a chunk of 3" silicon to make the connection to an air tube.

And, as everyone knows, Very Shiny is good for 200mph...

The math says it is 12% larger. Would have went with the 70mm as F&B recommended (same cost) but the Sprintex intake, IMO, will not allow for it. I may have to mod the thing more than just opening the hole as it is. Time will tell...

Project is to start early next week... Ordered in a silicon 3" 90 elbow to make the connetion to my air tube which will make the entire air delivery 3" or greater. Elbow should be here Monday (13/8/12) as it is coming FedX 2 day ordered it Friday (10/8/12) from CX Racing. I really looked, hard, at what I had on hand and could not see an acceptable solution. If I still had a plastic welder, I would have fabbed up an adaptor. But, alas, no gots a welder. And it was less pricey to get the elbow. Not as much fun, just less spendy. Still spendy, just less so...

BTW, another difference is in the Z dimension. It is taller by around 3/8" or so. Will be contacting F&B to see if I can safely trim the top of the TB a tad. Not looking for much but as it turns out, the drip pan under my hood vent is sort of in the way. May be easier to redsign/build the pan to gain the 0.25" of head room.

For a Stroker or other Normally Aspirated Installation, this would not be (in any way, shape, or form) an issue. My TB sits higher in the bay due to the SC.

This installation is going to be a game of less than inches due to the special circumstances.

Don't touch that dial, more to follow! I may even break down and do a chassis dyno run.
 
Does not appear to be as it is a Very Shiny Part. Milled out of a chunk-o-billet.
Too bad its not anodized, would hold up to the elements better. Its always hard hiding those pretty parts.
It is taller by around 3/8" or so. Will be contacting F&B to see if I can safely trim the top of the TB a tad. Not looking for much but as it turns out, the drip pan under my hood vent is sort of in the way.
Good to know that it is taller. I see no reason you couldn't cut it a bit though. Is the ring to stop the intake elbow/silicon hose taller as well?
 
the port for the IAC is tiny


Point?

Be assured though that any difficulties/noise/unpleasantness I run into will be accurately described and the solution posted.

Just the facts.

As for the trimming the TB, I think that it really just needs to be trimmed down to the first groove cut into the top. The "stop ring" for the air tube is taller than stock as well. Will be cutting the 90 elbow down to the minimum I can get away with. As I do not have, or have access to, a lathe I will have to cut the TB the hard way. The hose can run through the band saw without issue and yes, I will attemp the TB cut on the band saw as well...

Pricing. Where else can you get either a 68mm or a 70mm TB for less? For that matter, where else can you get a 70mm TB? It is an impossibility to machine the stock TB out anywhere near that far. This is a true 68mm through bore. I went to F&B not for the price but for the experience they have with supercharged engines.

I may sound like a shill for F&B but I can assure you all, I am not, Laid out near $400 to get the TB to my door.

IMO, if you increase the displacement (via bore/stroke or forced induction) the TB should be increased. Now, sprintex assured me that the stock TB would be just fine and that is what I posted originally in my SC thread.

When I bult the 4.7L back in '01 or so, I ran the stock TB for a time. After thinking about it, I replaced it with the factory 68mm (65mm after the neck down) from the 4.7L V8. At the time, Chryco had two, one for the "Magnum" engine and the "standard". The difference was 3mm with the Magnum, obviously, having the larger of the two. Made a world of difference. By my lights, if the engine is 15% larger (4.6L) or 17.5% larger (4.7L) then the flow capability of the TB needs to change as well. But, then again, that is just my opinion.

After both living with the SC for some time now and, more importantly, running the test that F&B uses, I respectfully disagree with this assessment. It is my opinion that in order to hold the cost of the kit down, they elected to recycle the stock TB. Just as they went with the "extra" injector route. With the limitations of the Chrysler PCM, you have to add in a piggyback anyway so the cost savings is in supplying one injector, not six.

Work begins in the morning. As the garage is not air conditioned (it is heated, snow you know...) the work will stop once the temperature gets up to "too bloody hot" point and then continue the next day. I do not do well in the heat so I am estimating that this will take more than two days to complete. Possibly as many as four. It all depends on how quickly I can open up the SC intake maifold to accept the TB. I am not trusting this work to the Kid so fighting my disability comes into play. He will be doing all of the heavy lifting and taking care of the discharge manifold mods. Doing the discharge manifold will be easy as it only requires the existing IAT location to be opened up and retapped to accept the AEM Sensor, the bottom side sanded smooth (the better for the insulation adhesive to grab) and the insulation applied. The exhaust manifold gets a blanket so that will not take long either. Pictures will be taken and posted.

BTW, a simple three bolt to four bolt adaptor plate plus opening up the intake manifold will put a factory TB on your Heep... Not a difficult task, the linkage is the only major issue and for that, you need to sacrifice a stock TB. I was on JU at the time I did this and the thread may still exist there or, more likely, it may be gone due to it's age. I used a piece of 1" T6 (6061) aluminium plate for the adaptor I made back then. This was soon after Dr. Dyno put a Ford TB (from the Mustang) on his stroker. I wanted to stay "All Heep" with the mod so...

If there was room under the hood, I would have done it again in lieu of the new TB. My labor is cheap... And, I still have some of that plate laying around. Doesn't everyone? Have tooling grade aluminium laying around? No? Hmm... But, alas, no room...


For those that possibly are now thinking about this, half inch plate will work just fine. As long as you can get the countersunk fasteners into it (to hold the adaptor to the manifold) you are good to go. An idea, yes? You can snag a TB for less than $50 from www.car-part.com all day long. The other thing you have to do is to use the pintle from the 4.7L TB with the IAC stepper from the XJ. The XJ TPS will bolt on. The IAC pintel is longer on the WJ/Dodge TB so, it has to be swapped. Now that I think about it, I did cut a gaskets for the TB and the adaptor out of stock gasket material. Also laying around.

Be amazed at just how much "stuff" you get laying around after better than a half century of playing with toys.

I call it stuff and goodies. My Wife nas another name for it...
 
the port for the IAC is tiny

There is a slight whistle at idle, maybe due to this small IAC port. The IAC port on the stock TB is much larger, ? keeps it from whistling.

I doubt that you will see 0 vacuum or even less than 1"vacuum, didn't with a 70mm.
 
Everything is apart, the compressor intake has been modified. Interestingly, the opening in the compressor intake measured at 64mm... So, a 62mm would just bolt on without any mods required at all.

The discharge side manifold has had the IAT hole enlarged and the AEM Sensor is in place. Insulation (header blanket and the "stick on" stuff for the manifolds) begins today.

FYI, I am using all Cool It products from Thermo Tec.
Header Manifold Blanket part number 14001.
Aluminized Heat Barrier (adhesive backed) part number 13575 (2k (F) rated with a 90% rejection).

What I found very surprising was how soft the aluminium is that Sprintex is using for the manifolds. Stuff cuts like butter. The opening for the TB was enlarged in a matter of mere minutes.

Hope to get things back together by end of today. Photos to follow, of course!
 
OK, so.... As my back decided to take a walk about and leave me laying in a ditch, This is what we got done.

Paper patterns on the manifold:
P8140069.jpg


Patterns on the Cool It plus prepped manifold:
P8140070.jpg


Cool It on the manifold:
P8140071.jpg


The intake side of the compressor also got some as well, just was too lazy to take a pic...

More to come!
 
Mid day update:

Had to remove 0.3" from the top of the TB so as to accomodate the 1.5" of elbow removed. Close up of the TB. Not bad for a cut made by hand. My hand as it turns out. I did contact Bruce at F&B prior to making the cut to make sure it would be OK. He volunteered to cut it for me on one of his lathes, but I am crunched for time. Only have the slave labor for another three days.
P8150073.jpg


And, both parts after mods. And yes, I am aware of the small nick.
P8150072.jpg


For those that don't care, the card table I have been using is from the late who knows. My parents picked it up at a second hand shop somewhere around '48. I have been dragging it around for over 4 decades myself. As long as it continues to work though, I will continue to use it!

Header blanket is in process of being fitted. It may or may not make it. As I am running a replacemetn for stock manifold, it is bsing an interesting challange to get it in place.

More to follow!
 
It would have been nice to remove that top ring on the TB to help lower the elbow, but that would have required a lathe. Next time.

Replacement stock exhaust manifold? No header? Will you wrap it?

Looking forward to the results. Throttle response, boost, IAT.
 
Last time I had to cut a silicone tube I marked off my cut line with masking tape and I cut it with my Dremel Multi-Max. I found the half-moon drywall blade worked best. I got a very clean cut going that route.

In my last post I was going to ask why he chose thermo tec's cool it opposed to DEI Reflect a Gold or Lava Mat (my choice), until I realized I'm on his ignore list too. Anyways, I did some poking around, and the Cool It product seems like a better value than Lava Mat (similar specs at a better price point). I'll definitely have to look more into this.
 
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