Currie HD Tie Rod Setup

brcomputer

NAXJA Forum User
I'm trying to get a beefier steering setup but also lessen the angles on my draglink on both ends .... I know this system is a ton stronger than what I have, but will it improve over the angles I have on my stock drag link? I really am pushing it with the stock setup right now.....;)
 
Well the Currie is set up just like the stock pieces but is stronger. Now I have an 88' with 6.5" of lift. I have used the stock drag link and tie rod as well as Rubicon's old style of tie rod over the past 4 years. I just replaced the draglink with one from a 92 or newer. The tre looks larger, and the drag link it self looks beefer. So what I'm trying to say is that the stock set up works for me at 6.5", not a problem one.
So for the price you can go with a tie rod from Big Daddy, or Rubicon which comes with the ends, maybe even JKS. They are strong enough for the job. The drag link's from ZJ's can be used but not sure if it's the same size as the newer XJ's or not. Just a few ideas. Juice
 
The TRE at the pitman arm has a bend in it that allows it to work in its full range of operation at steeper angles. Its only meant to compensate for a few inches of lift.

I've got this setup with 8" of lift(RK radius arm) and the pasenger side tie rod TRE hits the swaybar bracket and steering stabilizer bracket at full droop with the wheels cut all the way to the right. IMO the drag link needs more of and outward bend to clear the bracketry. The Grease zerk on that TRE is also in a stupid place mine sheared on the bolt for the steering stabilizer. This would be less of a problem with a 5 link than with radius arms due to the differences in the arc that the pinion travels through.(bracketry wont roll as far forwared ang get into the drag link.)
 
I've got this set-up, and it's not stock. Not only is the drag link and tie-rod bigger, they also are designed to give more travel. I used to be limited by the stock steering on full droop. Now my shocks are the limiting factor. I have 7"s of lift, and do not have trouble hitting the sway bar links lock to lock. The TRE threads are well inside the clamps, unlike the stock set-up that was just hangin' on.

The system is designed for up to 4"s of lift, but I figured that was alot better than the overtaxed stock set-up. I thought about a knuckle over set-up with chevy TRE's, but after talking to a few with this set-up decided Currie was for me.

I think that anyone over 4"s of lift should seriously consider getting rid of the stock set-up. After spending all that money on lifts tires lockers, safety shouldn't be left out when it comes to the steering. Do something!

Greddy
 
xjaddiction said:
they also are designed to give more travel.

Ok, does that mean that the drag link has a bend in it near the knuckle to compensate on that end for angles? Or is it just the TRE that attaches to the pitman arm? I have seen some pics of the TRE that attaches to the Pitman arm, definitely has a bend in it, so if the drag link itseld has any bend in it to compensate for angles then it's better than the stock setup in that respect and worth looking into... No point to me if only the TRE by the pitman arm is bent cause the end of the drag would then be the problem area....

I'm around 7" of lift as well.... stock setup (inner TRE) hit sway bar mounts as well as the stablizer mount bolt..... here was my mething of fixing it.... please keep comments about the sucky RE DQs to yourselves ... ;)

IMG_0365.JPG



You can see I cut into the stablizer mount so I could cut a lot off the sway bar tabs and move the bolts for that, then still had to flip the TRE to the front of the draglink for clearance due to the stablizer bolt......:rolleyes:

It is close, but the tie rod doesn't rub on the front of the drag link (I've tested it flexed & stuffed).... but it looks very close in the pic ...


Oh and has anybody had problems with the stablizer breaking off? For whatever reason last time out I had the passenger side stuffed and driverside maxed out and my stablizer broke....? I can't figure out why .... maybe it was just a piece o' crap...
 
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The curve from the knuckle tre to the tierod connection is about 3/4 " more than the stock set-up. The extra flex comes from these bigger curves in the currie system, and from the joint at the tie-rod drag link. That joint articulates alot more than the stock joint.

If you don't want to bore the knuckles and do the KO steering with the 1 ton chevy tre's, then Currie is an excellent set-up. The only downfall to currie, as far as I'm concerned, is the special tre's that tie into the system. If you break one of these, you have to have Currie replacements. I'm going to get a couple of spares.

Greddy
 
Yeah that's pretty expensive ... the whole thing is expensive.....




How unsafe is it for me to bend the stock draglink and it's TRE to get better angles?
 
I know people that have done it as a temporary fix, but I wouldn't drive that way for too long. When you have a lift over 6" it is probably time to consider a custom steering setup.
 
Yes...... I agree the setup is HD !!!
I installed the Currie HD steering in February and thanks to two NAXJA members I received a 60 % discount on the purchase. The one thing that I changed prior to installing the setup was to replace the rubber tie rod end boots with poly boots which are more resistant to road and trail abuse.
 
I've been thinking about the Currie setup for a while now, and you guys have just talked me into it. Where do I get it for the best price?
 
CharlesS said:
Yes...... I agree the setup is HD !!!
I installed the Currie HD steering in February and thanks to two NAXJA members I received a 60 % discount on the purchase. The one thing that I changed prior to installing the setup was to replace the rubber tie rod end boots with poly boots which are more resistant to road and trail abuse.
Charles,
I would like to know how you got that great discount on the steering setup. I'd really like to do this, but the $400 that Currie wants is too much for me at this time. I felt that I got a fair price from them on my 9", and they were great to work with, but I just don't think that $400 is reasonable.
Thanks,
John
 
brcomputer said:
Ok, does that mean that the drag link has a bend in it near the knuckle to compensate on that end for angles? Or is it just the TRE that attaches to the pitman arm? I have seen some pics of the TRE that attaches to the Pitman arm, definitely has a bend in it, so if the drag link itseld has any bend in it to compensate for angles then it's better than the stock setup in that respect and worth looking into... No point to me if only the TRE by the pitman arm is bent cause the end of the drag would then be the problem area....

I'm around 7" of lift as well.... stock setup (inner TRE) hit sway bar mounts as well as the stablizer mount bolt..... here was my mething of fixing it.... please keep comments about the sucky RE DQs to yourselves ... ;)

IMG_0365.JPG



You can see I cut into the stablizer mount so I could cut a lot off the sway bar tabs and move the bolts for that, then still had to flip the TRE to the front of the draglink for clearance due to the stablizer bolt......:rolleyes:

It is close, but the tie rod doesn't rub on the front of the drag link (I've tested it flexed & stuffed).... but it looks very close in the pic ...


Oh and has anybody had problems with the stablizer breaking off? For whatever reason last time out I had the passenger side stuffed and driverside maxed out and my stablizer broke....? I can't figure out why .... maybe it was just a piece o' crap...




Is there any problem with flipping the tie rod to the front? As mine is now it is impossible to grease...zerk has been knocked off for I dont know how long, even if there was one i couldnt get a gun on it.


edit:amazing how sometimes looking at what your dealing with helps you figure things out...
 
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screw it! from now on when i have a question i'll just start a new thread and clutter it up even more.
 
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