coolant system question?

TBCherokee

NAXJA Forum User
Location
cincinnati, OH
I have a 2001 cherokee sport 69,000 miles.
solid, kept like showroom new.

my question is every couple of weeks, i have to add to the radiator ress bottom , from add or near empty back up to full.

i have no leaks, and coolant system works well, even on 100degree days with air on.

Is it normal for the coolant to disappear? is it evaporating out the over flow hose.? of coarse seems like i add more in summer than winter.

just wondering if its normal. If anyone else has to add coolant every 2-3 weeks
thanks
 
Check the threads, I think there is something about the heads cracking on newer model XJ's. It has something to do with a certain casting number on the heads in question. My son has a 00' w/75k so far no problems though.
 
I had that problem. I replaced the cap, problem solved. 4.99 + shipping at Quadratec. If anything it's cheap so it's no big loss if it does not work for you.
 
Cylinder head casting #0331, usually on the deck between #3 and #4 cylinders. This can be determined by performing a leakdown test - do it with the engine DEAD COLD and again with the engine at OPERATING TEMPERATURE, since temperature can be a factor in when cracks present.

Some evapouration from an "open" reservoir is normal, but not so much you have to add coolant more than every couple of months.

However, your pressure cap is also five years old, and it might want replacing. Especially if it is OEM! See if you can find a Stant or Robertshaw branded replacement - both work well. Take a moment and a Sharpie pen and initial/date the replacement part - changing pressure caps every five years or so isn't going to hurt anything, and it's cheap insurance.

5-90
 
Just to add the outstanding advice above...

See any steam coming from the tailpipe?
Hows the oil, black or chocolate?
Smell like antifreeze inside?

Its going somewhere, it don't just vanish.

Rev
 
Don't forget to check the weep hole on the water pump.
It's a very smal leak that can go unnoticed
 
langer1 said:
Is it normal, NO. I think the Head problem was on some 2000 but was caught early and fixed.

It WASN'T caught at all. DC still doesn't recognise that this has been a problem so how do you think they fixed it? Of those '00+ 4.0 engines with the 0331 head casting that have been suffering cracked heads, most have done so beyond the 60k mile mark though some have cracked much earlier than that. Since the majority of newer engines haven't reached that mileage yet, there's still a fair chance that '02+ heads could crack later on. Most of the heads that have cracked so far are '00 models with a few '01 models falling victim.
TBCherokee, your engine has reached that "danger period" and unexplained coolant loss is the first sign of a cracked head, so I suggest you remove the oil filler cap and peer under the valve cover between the exhaust valve springs of the no.3 and 4 cylinders. That's where the heads tend to crack (the hottest part between two exhaust ports). You won't see a crack but you might see some chocolate milkshake-like emulsion and some coolant stains.
 
My '01 Sport didn't show any antifreeze in the oil, but the antifreeze looked like a sick Latte. I had the same mystery loss of coolant, and could smell it in the exhaust vapor. I'm guessing it would evaporate out the coolant as fast as it leaked in, and then suck in some oil into the coolant as it cooled off. I have a rear main leak so I didn't have any doubts where my oil was going. Somewhere I saw a mod someone had done to an older head so that they could run the distributer-less rail with it so that they didn't have to replace a bad head with one of the same castings. I just have 57K now.
Another couple of symptom I had were really low oil pressure, and it ran 214+ F. instead of 207 F. or so now it's fixed.
 
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well my oil is changed ever 3000 miles and looks fine, just slightly dark brown
no water in it , i can see no leak anywhere? engine looks dry and tight.
no smells of antifreeze,
keeps great cooling , never goes over 212 on hot day with air on. usually runs between 208 -210 during cooler months.
I might try the replacing the radiator cap? it is OEM. and 6 years old.

:"" would that much evaporate out from the cap? if not sealed right
i'd say i replace about half a gallon in the res, every month? or more.

engine runs strong also?
could it be as simple as the cap?
any more thoughts?
I did notice when i took my oil cap off to change oil a slight coffee color substance on the end of the cap? but no where else. and never seen it on it before , i'll make sure to notice again next oil change? might just been a fluke? dirt? etc.
But it sounds like the coffee froth Dr Dyno is talking about?
If it is my heads cracked, What do i do? how expensive is it to fix?
thanks
 
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The cap is cheap and easy to replace - start with the cheap and easy (no comments people - this ain't the Den! Why do I feel like I'm going to get taken out of context again....?)

Having the froth just on the end of the "710" cap may or may not be a problem - have you ever noted it on the dipstick as well? How about when you drain the oil? It's also possible you'd get a "lighter coffee" colour in the radiator if they're mixing, it just depends on how.

If I saw the "froth" on the end of the oil cap, I'd clean it off, put it back, and check it again in 24-48 hours to be certain. It may just be old contamination that collected - like a suspected engine leak, clean it and check it again once you've had a chance to run it a bit. The damage would already be done (if you'd noticed it,) and running it for a day or so to let it collect would not only confirm the problem if present, but give you a better idea of its severity...

5-90
 
I never noticed the froth, or anything on the dip stick, or when changing oil,
only this time on end of oil cap.
i'll look again, just changed oil last week. and see if built up again.
never has been on there before until this time.

but have been loosing coolant for over a year now since owning my jeep.

if it is cracked heads, what is involved with repairing this? and cost ?
 
langer1 said:
Is it normal, NO. I think the Head problem was on some 2000 but was caught early and fixed.
:confused:

Where did you hear that? It was a pretty big problem on the '00 and '01s.
 
Cracked head involves replacing the cylinder head assembly. Cost? Depends on what you pay for the head and rebuild - the swap you can do yourself.

I'd definitely want to make sure it was the head tho - that's why a leakdown test can be so instructive. Once you know a cylinder is leaking, you can listen about to see WHERE it's leaking, and get a better idea (it may be just a valve that isn't seating, or not even the head.)

This sounds like something where you really want to be sure...

5-90
 
5-90 said:
Take a moment and a Sharpie pen and initial/date the replacement part

Great idea, btw. Not sure how the sharpie would hold up in the long run though. I'd probably take an awl and scratch the date on it.

I never could convince my pc repair tech to mark stuff when he installed, replaced or repaired something. It's so nice when you get a UPS with problems, being able to look on the bottom and see when the battery was replaced. They're nice for marking wires or connectors too. The bugger never even marked anything as questionable or bad before he stuck in in the spare parts pile. A cheap sharpie can make life so simple.
 
well i rechecked my oil cap about 2 weeks after my oil change, was just fine,
just dark oil. no froth or coffee color stuff,
I checked the dip stick, perfect clean oil.

but my res bottle now says add, so i've lost from full to add?
So i'm going to try to replace the radiator cap and see if that is the problem.
any other ideals on what it could be ?
my engine is bone dry, no leaks, seepage or anything anywhere.?

I'll let you guys know if it was the cap in a couple weeks.
the dealer said if i was losing that much coolant into the oil that my jeep would be running awlful. but its not,
never over heats, oil pressure perfect , drives good so not sure if it would be a cracked head?
.
 
lawsoncl said:
Great idea, btw. Not sure how the sharpie would hold up in the long run though. I'd probably take an awl and scratch the date on it.

I never could convince my pc repair tech to mark stuff when he installed, replaced or repaired something. It's so nice when you get a UPS with problems, being able to look on the bottom and see when the battery was replaced. They're nice for marking wires or connectors too. The bugger never even marked anything as questionable or bad before he stuck in in the spare parts pile. A cheap sharpie can make life so simple.

I've also got a notebook for each rig, so there are separate records.

I've also found an electric pencil to be handy - I wouldn't use it on anything plastic, but metal parts are fair game!

I like knowing what's going on - and with several rigs running around here, it's nice to have them tell me, instead of digging around between my ears for an answer (which is probably wrong...)

5-90
 
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