Cleaning the top of the block (head removed)

[Kiefer316]

What's the best way to do it? Any help is appreciated.

There is chunks of black carbon? Or whatever it is on top of the piston and the surface of the are where the head sits looks like it has the head gasket fix on it. Just some degreaser and a green dish "scrachy" pad? What have you used?

 

[Frank Z]

NEVER USE A SCOTCH-BRITE PAD!!!!!!!

Once those fibers get in your oil they'll destroy your bearings. Brass brush and some engine solvent is all you need.

 

[Kiefer316]

Thanks frank!

 

[ColoradoRaptor]

NEVER USE A SCOTCH-BRITE PAD!!!!!!!

Once those fibers get in your oil they'll destroy your bearings. Brass brush and some engine solvent is all you need.

What did you say Frank? ....................... :laugh:

 

[Apostle]

What did you say Frank? ....................... :laugh:

hard to tell, he's allways mumbling

 

[kastein]

I'd use oil based cleaners and solvents only personally - no water based. Water based will produce rust...

And my all time favorite is brake cleaner, so unless that would damage anything, I'd probably use brake cleaner and an old toothbrush. If brake cleaner is too harsh, carb/throttle body cleaner.

 

[Kiefer316]

Cool... I don't have to spend much money now... got a half a can of brake kleen and a few old tooth brushes for just this reason

 

[jimgrms]

Cool... I don't have to spend much money now... got a half a can of brake kleen and a few old tooth brushes for just this reason

don't use your good toothbrush i droped it in the toilet 2 weeks ago but i got it out :>{)))

 

[Kiefer316]

Ahaha that wasn't mine. I keep mine in a different spot! Lol

 

[ReverendOD]

3M Bristle Pads work great for removing gasket material and the carbon from the pistons. Just did it to mine when I did the head swap.

 

[5-90]

Run the piston up to TDC, use a brass wire wheel (gently!) to get the carbon off of the piston, wash down with carburettor cleaner. The carbon will still be coarse enough to get picked up by your oil filter, but you don't want too much to drain back.

But, for this reason, I don't change the oil until after I've got everything bolted back up. This way, I can rinse the deck and such down, and then have just about all of it drain out when I change the oil.

 

[JJacobs]

What Frank said on the Scotchbrite. Bearing killer for sure. However, there are these nifty plastic finger pads that go on a Roloc wheel. No debris but what you're removing. I usually buzz the head but do the block deck with a razor blade by hand.

 

[ClarkPeach]

I've always used razor blades and brake parts cleaner. Never had any issues, either.

 

[Kiefer316]

Thanks for all of the answers... will pick up a bass brush here on Friday and hopefully get that all done. And then take the head to the shop.

 

[smalls2010]

give me a holler if you want a hand at all this weekend

 

[duke000088]

OK... hypothetically... Let's say I had a FRIEND who is changing his head on XJ. Let's just say, hypothetically, this FRIEND didn't do his homework and used some green Scotch Brite pads to get some stubborn gasket material off his block.

Will a couple of quick oil changes as soon as the vehicle is back up and running be the best advice to minimize the effects?

I haven't started the engine yet... is there anything else I can do to give MY FRIEND a better chance of having this engine not keel over after this job?

Oh boy...

 

[Frank Z]

I learned my lesson the hardway.

Strip the motor down and hot tank it.

 

[duke000088]

Ugh. That's not in the cards here.

Beyond my expertise and the scope of this project.

How long did the engine go for you?

 

[Frank Z]

It's been a while, but IIRC around 1k miles before the bearings looked like new pennies.

 

[Hypoid]

Has the head been torqued down?