Can you use loc-tite and antiseize together?

[Lucas]

I heard you can, but then I also heard that the anti-seize negates the effects of the loc-tite. On my Tcase output shafts I put on a thin coat of antiseize on the output shaft and then put a line of the blue stuff on the yoke retaining nut, that way the two did't "mix" on the threads.
Any info about this?

 

[Eagle]

I've heard that you can but I have no first-hand experience. When I installed a factory hitch the bolts came with Loc-Tite on the threads, and I added anti-seize. But I haven't taken it apart since so I don't know if there are any problems. Also havn't had the hitch fall off, but I've installed other hitches using anti-seize without the Loc-Tite and they didn't fall off, either, so that's rather inconclusive.

Sorry.

 

[Matthew Currie]

I'd somehow be surprised if it works well, because the loctite requires a pretty clean environment in which to cure. Actually, although it does lock threads, loctite should also act as an anti-seize substance as well, since it does form a barrier between the parts.

 

[Eagle]

In order for it to work, you would need to apply the Loc-Tite ahead of time and let it cure (the way some bolts come from the Jeep parts department), then apply the anti-seize at the time of doing the work.

 

[old_man]

Being an ME, my question is WHY. The purpose of loctite is to keep it from comming loose. If correctly applied, it also prevents corrosion and binding. A low to medium strength strength locker correctly applied will also perform the anti-seize function.

 

[bgcntry72]

I posted a similar thread some time ago about using a humidifier and a de-humidifier in the same room.
Use the search button.

 

[Dave in Eugene]

Yeah. In my office there are two thermostats. The young chick at the next desk over wears a sweater and turns up the thermostat on her side, but I'm an old fart and like it a bit cooler so I turn mine down when I come to work in the morning (it resets itself to an unfomfortably high temperature overnight). The one on my side of the room is the only one that works (she doesn't know that).

But I know a little bit about Loctite. If you really need a threadlocker, your general purpose 242 medium strength (blue) loctite will work for most purposes, just make sure everything is clean going together. When you need to unbolt, a little extra torque will break it free and you are good to go. The high strength 271 (red) is more permanent. Heating it to something like 400 F is the only thing that will normally break it free, so only use it where you can use heat when you need to unbolt. At the same time, either product will work as an anti sieze, mainly because the threads being coated will prevent moisture from wicking into dry threads and rusting them up, and I can't imagine a situation where there would be a need to use anti sieze with them even if you could.

 

[XJJPR]

I heard you can, but then I also heard that the anti-seize negates the effects of the loc-tite. On my Tcase output shafts I put on a thin coat of antiseize on the output shaft and then put a line of the blue stuff on the yoke retaining nut, that way the two did't "mix" on the threads.
Any info about this?

For one, you aren't using them together.

A-S is on the splines and the LT is on the threads.

Now if you put them both on the same surface it won't work.

BTW LT isn't needed on that nut, it is crimped to stay tight and needs to be installed with a impact gun, but it won't hurt using it.

mark

 

[Eagle]

For Tom and Dave --

I am reminded of a sig line I saw on another forum that reads "In theory there is no difference between theory and tractice. In practice there is."

In theory you are probably right about Loc-Tite also acting as an anti-sieze, but when I removed the 16 year old OEM Class I hitch from my XJ the bolts were pretty solidly rusted into the nut strips. The factory uses Loc-Tite on those bolts -- the new Mopar hitches come with Loc-Tite already on the bolts. I used anti-sieze when installing the new Class III hitch.

 

[Roxtar]

I heard you can, but then I also heard that the anti-seize negates the effects of the loc-tite. On my Tcase output shafts I put on a thin coat of antiseize on the output shaft and then put a line of the blue stuff on the yoke retaining nut, that way the two did't "mix" on the threads.
Any info about this?

What, exactly, is your goal here. Anti-seize will cause the bolts to loosen easier, loc-tite will cause them to loosen harder (gramatically wrong but you understand)
If you use anti-seize don't bother with the loc-tite since it will not have a surface to stick to.

 

[RichP]

Yes, you can use them together. The way blue LT works is to apply it and let it harden then insert. The blob of LT will cause the threads in that area to bind and hold the bolt or nut tighter. The anti-seize on the other hand puts a barrier between the threads and the outside which helps prevent corrosion in the threads. The silver AS does not work as well as the copper AS, the copper seems to last longer. When I put my tomken bumper on last month I had a heck of a time getting the factory rear tow hook bracket off and that had only been on there about 2 years. I was taking it off yearly to clean it up , as well as my skid plates, and repaint it but got lazy last year.
Prior to using LT I used fingernail polish on small electronic parts that needed to be adjusted and then locked, also to see if my customers were dinking with the adjustments. The fingernail polish worked well and was like $.50 vs a 'professional' bottle of thread locker/anti-tamper stuff from GCC which was like $8.00, smelled the same as fingernail polish and acted like it too...

 

[Lucas]

The purpose was to keep the nuts from backing off but keeping them rust free so I could remove them, if needed in the future. I should clarify, I put AS on most of the output shaft except for the last 1/4 inch of threads. Then I put loctite on the last 1/4 inch of thread on the nut, so the loctite does mate to a clean surface.
As far as LT being an antisieze, I had to break off bolts to get a hitch off (seems like a rust prone area, huh?) because the threads had rusted, but were loctited. Perhaps it works as an AS if you coat the entire bolt, but I only had a tiny tube of LT compared to a big bottle of AS.

 

[RichP]

You are actually not supposed to slobber the LT all over the threads, like the old Brylcream commercials 'a little dab will do ya' you only need a little dot on the threads. Antiseize on the the other hand acts as a barrier.
Sometimes I use a spray on sealer also, puts a waxy coating on the tightned down joint that when you decided to remove it you need to hit with a solvent that cleans the wax off before you start backing it out. Thomas & Betts makes the stuff as well as someother companies. Used it in the navy, mostly to make the bolts removable when replacing zinc annodes in the superstructure on the subs I was on. but you need access to area you want to protect, difficult to use on the nut cert plates, works well when you can see both sides of the fastners though...

 

[XJJPR]

The purpose was to keep the nuts from backing off but keeping them rust free so I could remove them, if needed in the future. I should clarify, I put AS on most of the output shaft except for the last 1/4 inch of threads. Then I put loctite on the last 1/4 inch of thread on the nut, so the loctite does mate to a clean surface.
As far as LT being an antisieze, I had to break off bolts to get a hitch off (seems like a rust prone area, huh?) because the threads had rusted, but were loctited. Perhaps it works as an AS if you coat the entire bolt, but I only had a tiny tube of LT compared to a big bottle of AS.

Sorry, must not of realized where you put the AZ. My first post is how it should be done. Never use AZ on anything you want to stay on that you aren't suppose to check every once in a while. For example AZ on lug nuts is OK because you're suppose to check them. As for Eagle's AZ on hitch bolts, I wouldn't do it because you don't check them for tightness regularly, normally at least, hopefully Eagle will check those.

Anyhow, if you keep you drive shaft well greased the mess will keep that nut from rusting, ever!!!!!

hinkley