Bazooka Bass Tubes. (PRE-amplified)

fdsa487

NAXJA Forum User
Does anyone have any experience with Bazooka Bass Tubes? This one is PRE amplified and i was wondering how it is. Its says it 200 watts. Im not the best in the stereo department so I was hoping that you could help me out to let me know if you know how they preform.

I can buy it off a friend bran new in the box for $100 and it retails for over $300 i think because it is pre amplified. I might buy it depending on the feedback.


tube.jpg
 
"Pre" amplified? Howzat?

It will either have an internal amplifier, or it will require an external amp. Pick an amp that will be under the rating of the sub, if you can (I'm running a tubed Fosgate 10" 450W driver, with a Kenwood 400W amp.)

You will also need "preamp outs" on the back of your head unit, or a "line lever converter" that can go in off speaker lines (and convert the higher line level voltage to a lower "preamp" voltage and not kill the input section.) If you require an external amp, you may be able to find on with "line-level inputs" and save the conversion hassles - but preamp outs are usually best.

I've not got anything against Bazooka in general - I've used them on and off for years (the tube I've got used to be a cheap Bazooka my son bought - until the driver blew out.) They usually do well with contstruction and porting requirements - although the whole NOS wrapper will seem out of place to you. Maybe paint it red and get ABC fire extinguisher labels?

It should give you a nice bass "hit" when you need it, but it won't be enough to "thump" (thank Gawd!) It will make for nice low-end filler when Metallica fires up a solo, or when Boston gives solid drum hits - and that's the real purpose of a subwoofer (not to make a "levitating vehicle" blasting Jungle-Jump crap down the street - no matter what these kids think!)

5-90
 
had an 8 inch tube in my suburban and loved it. depends on what kind of music you listen to but it had enough flashy thump to impress when i wanted to but was real smooth as a supplement to the speakers
 
does the valve screw on top control the gain?

it probably has an internal amp, and if so, probably does not have line level inputs. line leve is a last resort anyway. get a nice deck with 4v or better rca outs-adjustable crosses at the deck are even better.

I haven't heard this unit, only an older bazooka. it was loud, but response sucked. whatever you're into i guess. do you know if the enclosure is sealed or ported? tat will make a difference when it comes to power consumption and frequency response.

btw, i love the idea of painting it red and decals for an extinguisher. then get some brackets and mount it to a pillar, haha awesome!
 
i see the hump thing loos like a vent. i don't know where it opens to the enclosure internally, but it's long. the length of your vent affects the tuning of your driver. (lower freq's vs higher freq's preference)
 
the_chief said:
does the valve screw on top control the gain?

it probably has an internal amp, and if so, probably does not have line level inputs. line leve is a last resort anyway. get a nice deck with 4v or better rca outs-adjustable crosses at the deck are even better.

I haven't heard this unit, only an older bazooka. it was loud, but response sucked. whatever you're into i guess. do you know if the enclosure is sealed or ported? tat will make a difference when it comes to power consumption and frequency response.

btw, i love the idea of painting it red and decals for an extinguisher. then get some brackets and mount it to a pillar, haha awesome!

4V outs as opposed to 2V, right? What is the differents of higher volts? Or whatever the V stands for?
 
volts, yes. a some manufacturers now claim 4 or more volts at the line but a voltimiter will usually poo poo that. it has to do with the strength of the unamplified signal between the source and the destination. a lot of high end guys even use powered line drivers. higher power will carry the signal further and more consistantly.
 
I had a 10" bazooka tube in a chevelle and it was nice. 200 watts will be nice for listening pleasure. $100 is a steal. I will buy it if you dont! Hope this helps.
 
5-90 said:
"Pre" amplified? Howzat?

It will either have an internal amplifier, or it will require an external amp. Pick an amp that will be under the rating of the sub, if you can (I'm running a tubed Fosgate 10" 450W driver, with a Kenwood 400W amp.)

You will also need "preamp outs" on the back of your head unit, or a "line lever converter" that can go in off speaker lines (and convert the higher line level voltage to a lower "preamp" voltage and not kill the input section.) If you require an external amp, you may be able to find on with "line-level inputs" and save the conversion hassles - but preamp outs are usually best.

I've not got anything against Bazooka in general - I've used them on and off for years (the tube I've got used to be a cheap Bazooka my son bought - until the driver blew out.) They usually do well with contstruction and porting requirements - although the whole NOS wrapper will seem out of place to you. Maybe paint it red and get ABC fire extinguisher labels?

It should give you a nice bass "hit" when you need it, but it won't be enough to "thump" (thank Gawd!) It will make for nice low-end filler when Metallica fires up a solo, or when Boston gives solid drum hits - and that's the real purpose of a subwoofer (not to make a "levitating vehicle" blasting Jungle-Jump crap down the street - no matter what these kids think!)

5-90
I don't agree with running a lower wattage than the rating. It won't hurt to do that, but running more also won't hurt, and if it's a quality piece, it can actually help. If you tune it correctly, running more watts to a subwoofer will increase it's responsiveness and supply better all around sound. My cousin (a mobile audio/electronics manager) ran over 600w to his Infinity 10" and it sounded great. When I had my system installed, the guy that installed it was running 2000w to his JL Ws and never had a single problem. I'm not saying you have to, just that it isn't going to kill them unless you just run around wanting to rattle other people's change.
 
Glad to hear you are happy with sub. Food for thought - Setting up amps and subs is realatively easy. Make sure that you only go by the RMS power specs, that is the true current rating of audio equipment. Anybody can and will make amps that say they supply tons of watts, and the truth is, they do - for only an instant. RMS is minimum constant power. Matching Subs and amp RMS will give the best results. Rock On.
 
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