1996 jeep cherokee expedition/fishing build

[Jeepxjcountry]

Well purchased a 1996 jeep Cherokee country 4x4 with 196000 miles on it for 2500 after wrecking my motorcycle. I originally had a longbed 1996 Ford F-150 but after the accident I needed an automatic to drive to work until I was out of a cast after breaking my right wrist. Sold the truck for 2900 bought the jeep for 2500.the jeep ran great for a few weeks until the water pump gave out. So I replaced that along with some 235 dueler revo 2s. Then it went downhill after that. Dropped it off at Firestone to get the brake pads done since I was unable to myself. When I returning they handed me the bill for $850. Apparently they took it upon themselves to replace the rotors,pads,shoes,drums and wheel cylinders. Lesson learned. Do the work myself. I want my jeep to be a capable dd and a good expediton vehicle. To take care of the heat I ordered run cool large hi flow louvers. Also ordered new shocks all the way around and a crew 32" led lightbar. I also converted the interior to LEDs. And have purchased a herculiner kit for the rockers and bumpers. Hopefully next year I'll be able to purchase an iron rock offroad 4" long arm kit. Won't lift too high but I'll have the articulation. Eventually a winch bumper and rear

build list updated
3.5 inch rubicon express super ride full leaf spring lift kit
amazon 32 inch led lightbar
rough country shackle relocation kit
rough country 2 inch coil spring spacer to level it out
rough country extended stainless steel front brakelines to match the rear
1 inch transfer case drop( waiting to install)
5 rod fishing pole holder mounted to roof rack
mamba 15x8 wheels 4.5 inch back spacing
32x11.50 cooper discoverer stt pro
champion 3 row all aluminum radiator (stock cracked)
HPS radiator hose kit
adjustable extended sway bar links

still to buy
adjustable trac bar
lower control arm drop or long arms
sye and driveshaft
gears?
smittybuilt bumper pack from quadratec

 

[RoyalXJ]

Very clean

 

[clean4drxj]

It's clean looking, I'll go ahead and advise against the smittybuilt bumpers and recommend jcr. And if you plan on rehearing go 4.88's that way when you step up in tire size you'll be happy. As far as track bars go I would look into the RockKrawler or Clayton setup. And last long arms are the way to go but there are many kits available just make sure NOT to go IRO kit(caster nut garbage).

 

[Original_MudButt]

Nice! Welcome!

Can you tell me more about those under hood lights? Obviously LEDS, but where'd they come from?

If you need more ideas for an Expo build check out the expedition portal forum.

 

[Jeepxjcountry]

Just cheap led strips probably from autozone or Walmart. I pulled them off my motorcycle. Had to install a switch though since the stock bulb socket that was missing had the Mercury switch in it

 

[Jeepxjcountry]

Why against the smittybilt bumpers? I was debating 4.10 or 4.56. Not planning on bigger than 33s. I have the Dana 35 and Dana 30 which won't be very reliable with 35s or bigger. Already on expedition portal. Just updated there. Had some douche say that I ruined my jeep and it should clean it's mouth with a revolver so I just quit posting there for a while.

 

[clean4drxj]

I don't think their tie-ins are good enough, and 4.88's would be good even with 33's. With the added weight of skids ect you thank me later for recommend the deeper gears.

 

[clean4drxj]

Also do yourself a favor and grab a 29 spline 8.25, Dana35 isn't worth putting any money into.

 

[RyanColton]

Jeepedo129 has a thread about a Ford Explorer rear axle I beleave it was almost bolt in and they already hav disk breaks and the same width. You should check it out he does great work.

 

[clean4drxj]

Exploder rears aren't bolt in but if you can weld or a friend then it's easy.

 

[Trouble]

Good build sheet. The sb bumpers are heavy but stout. I run the rear one with a 35". At 75 in the whoops it's gets a harmonic vibration but over all pretty stout all 3/16 steel. It will need some modding with a shackle drop. If you crawl stick with drums. I got discs on a d44. Good on the street no so much when going slow against gear ratios.

At that lift just do CA drop brackets.

 

[Jeepedo129]

Exploder rears aren't bolt in but if you can weld or a friend then it's easy.

Yep, the 8.8 isn't quite a bolt in, but it is a good alternative for an axle upgrade. Most of the work involved is cutting off the old ford junk, then welding on new leaf spring pads and shock brackets.The main benefit is their availability, I got mine for around 150$ and with another 50$ish in parts i had an axle with disk brakes and a 35 spline shaft and a thick 8.8 ring gear. pretty beefy.

But, as mentioned before there is a little bit of fab. you could find a Chrysler 8.25 out of a 97 or newer (29 spline) for cheap, and that would be a direct bolt in. The D35 is a less reliable axle, and isn't worth dumping money into.

just my .02

I have the install on my thread.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1099482&page=8

 

[clean4drxj]

They are 31 spline, no axle aside from full floater came 35 spline.

 

[pjanda1]

Definitely do a different rear axle and gears.

At 3.5" lift you might not need an SYE. You may as well try and see before buying parts. If you do take the t-case out to do an SYE, grab a better linkage. The one from Boostwerks is a great deal. You also don't really need an adjustable track bar. You can redrill the hole in the axle end and call it a day. Or just leave it as-is. Obviously, beefier parts are always good and an SYE never hurt anybody.

But first put time and money towards the axle and gears. I'd put a locker in while you're at it. Front if you are concerned about handling on snow and ice, rear if you aren't.

 

[Jeepedo129]

They are 31 spline, no axle aside from full floater came 35 spline.

oops, i messed up. Thanks for catching that.

 

[Jeepxjcountry]

Definitely do a different rear axle and gears.

At 3.5" lift you might not need an SYE. You may as well try and see before buying parts. If you do take the t-case out to do an SYE, grab a better linkage. The one from Boostwerks is a great deal. You also don't really need an adjustable track bar. You can redrill the hole in the axle end and call it a day. Or just leave it as-is. Obviously, beefier parts are always good and an SYE never hurt anybody.

But first put time and money towards the axle and gears. I'd put a locker in while you're at it. Front if you are concerned about handling on snow and ice, rear if you aren't.

does that redrill actually hold up?i was trying to decide between new trac bar or relocation bracket. sitting at 5.5 inch right now. did install a transfer case drop i had lying around no more vibration.just got back from a 1500+ mile road trip. did great but does make a few noises. a clunk or two maybe when i turn or flex.maybe swaybar links can't tell. definitely need to do something about the trackbar and lower control arms though. probably drop kit for now and long arm eventually. also switching to re 5.5 springs instead of the spacers and upgrading to rusty reservoir shocks with the stud conversion for a better ride.averaged 12.8 mpg loaded down on stock gears. about time for o2 sensors though. got a code p0141 but that went away after seafoam.

 

[Jeepxjcountry]

did great on the beach and even better in the georgia clay. cooper stt pros definitely shine in the mud and clay. clean out amazingly

 

[Jeepxjcountry]

finally got the discos on there just need to mount the bracket for storage. also went to install the extended brake lines but the stock ones are stripped. so i picked up a new nut and a flaring tool to get them on. removed the front flares to test flex after i get the brake lines done. need to remove the rear and trim them up. plan on using door trim on the edge for a clean look







also ordered this cheap eBay intake. plan on turning it into a cowl intake eventually with a snorkel topper.


this is the plan for the fenders eventually. at least until i get bushwhackers if i decide to spend the money

 

[clean4drxj]

Why bother blowing the extra money on BW's.. The Napier flares are superior and cheaper.

 

[Jeepxjcountry]

intakes done for now along with the brakelines. had to cut and reflare my hardline with new nuts. flaring tubes by hand is a pain with a cheap double flare tool.