1991 Comanche Build(AKA the POS Jeep)

[POSJ]

Disclaimer:
This will be my build thread and it is going to take a long time to complete(2-3 years) so don't expect a ton of updates. I have asked questions in modified and created multiple threads elsewhere but I am trying to bring it all to one section and I will give and follow up post bringing it up to speed eventually. The fab and engineering in this section will not be as advanced as some of these threads in this section that I have gotten some knowledge from but I will do my best to keep it "advanced"...that being said it will not be "hardcore" per Pirate4x4.com rules. I am learning and have no preconceived notation about knowing everything so if you have advice please let me know...So here we go:

As it sits now:
1991 Comanche
4.0L/AW4/NP231
D30 Front with 4.56 gears, ARB, Warn Hubs
D44 Rear with 4.56 gears and a Spool
Flatbed(hopefully get to keep it)
RAD Rail
Warn Winch
35x12.50-15 MT/R Kevlars

1991 Comanche Build Sheet(Hopefully)
Axles:
Front: -2005 F-350 Super Dana 60 $300
-Ballistic Dana 60 Shave Kit $265
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Dana-60-Shave-Kit_p_1848.html
-Yukon R5.38 Gears $271
https://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=3750&Source=DiffWizard&Show A=true
-Detroit Locker 35 spline $667
http://www.justdifferentials.com/category-s/3198.htm?searching=Y&sort=13&cat=3198&show=10&page=3
-Wheel Hub 2ea $375
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2005,f-350+super+duty,6.0l+v8+diesel+turbocharged,1430817,brake/wheel+hub,wheel+hub,7632
-Brake Caliper and Bracket Left $77
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6537996&cc=1430817&jsn=546&jsn=546
-Brake Caliper and Bracket Right $77
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6537992&cc=1430817&jsn=547
Total: $2,300


Rear: -1998 Ford E-350 Dana 60 $300
-Ruffstuff Brake Kit $328
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R2054.html
-Yukon 5.38 Gears $282
https://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=12251&Source=DiffWizard&ShowAA=true
-Detroit Locker 35 spline $667
http://www.justdifferentials.com/category-s/3198.htm?searching=Y&sort=13&cat=3198&show=10&page=3
-Dana 60 Cover $125
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Dana-60-Differential-Cover-WELDED_p_1592.html
-Spindle Rebuild Kit ~$200
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1999,e-350,7.3l+v8+diesel+turbocharged,1354496,brake/wheel+hub,wheel+bearing,1672
Total: $1,602


Suspension/Steering:
Front: -Ruffstuff or HDOffroad 3 link brackets/ends $632
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/3LINKKT.html
-Shocks/Springs *To Be Determined*
-Hydro Assist steering(street legal) *pricing in future*
-GM TRE Steering $245
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/XOGMSTE.html

Rear: -Leafspring +2 Perches $142
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/2PLUS.html


Chassis/Body:
Frame: -HD Offroad Stiffeners/Ruffstuff Stiffeners
-2x6 .250 Box Stiffeners
-Minimal Exo Cage *TBD*
Wheels/Tires: -16/40-17 LTB’s
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tires/16-40-17LT-LTB.aspx?t_c=13&t_s=536&t_pt=101509&t_pn=SSTLTB-203
-Black Steel Wheels $92ea
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Wheels/Series-98-Rock-Crawler-Gloss-Black-Monster-Mod-Wheel.aspx?t_c=11&t_s=535&t_pt=101508&t_pn=PCW98-7887
-Rear Axle Wheel adapters 8.65 to 8x170 $120
http://www.amazon.com/Billet-wheel-Adapters-126-15mm-14x1-50/dp/B00EKWM1WY/ref=sr_1_12?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1457468876&sr=1-12&keywords=8x6.5+to+8x170+wheel+adapters

 

[POSJ]

As it sits:

The axles, junkyard pulls:

Broken center pin, jammed the spiders against the housing:

 

[POSJ]

After I cut out the spider gears and got everything in stuck I started inspecting the axle, found this:

That is driving the Ballistic Fab front shave...I got the idea from AshmanXJ and if I'm going to be investing into fixing it I might as well shave it...

Torn down and waiting for parts.

I haven't invested much effort into it but so far I can't read the BOM on the rear axle.

 

[POSJ]

Ready for tear down and my home built welding table/work station mess:

 

[foxwar71]

I've always loved that bed with the tire sunk in! Looking forward to the 60 shave. People have asked me why I didn't do mine. I'd love to do a full spool and shave it like a Prorock

 

[89eliminator]

looking forward to the progress!

 

[eflores]

sub'd need ideas for my crapmanche

 

[POSJ]

Started tearing it apart, have to leave the rear axle in for the time being for balance purposes. After I plate the front I'll move the jack stands forward and it won't be as sketch.

Wheel of death tried to kill me...got lucky since I was wearing boots and jeans.

 

[POSJ]

Cut out the rockers and mocked up the 2x6 .250 wall in place.

Having to do the current welding with 120v because my outlet style is small and old school type: https://www.fruitridgetools.com/ele...?CAGPSPN=pla&gclid=CNDDw6PxvcsCFUM8gQodOgEOmA

But I'm going to make due on all the cosmetics and hopefully I have 240v usable when it comes time for the suspension and shave. Doing alright with the 120v though...

 

[POSJ]

Finished the ends of the rockers.

Figured out the cut on the door, cut 1/8" higher on the doors for clearance.

Cut door and mocked up with the rocker...

Welded in the rocker, welding .250 to sheet is a PITA...

Finishing up the door it in work, but I'm not happy with how it is turning out...looks like the waves of the ocean.

 

[MoparManiac]

How are you finishing out the door?

Go slow and keep the heat down. Tack Tack Tack and take a break for 10-15 minutes then come back. Move around a bunch too.

 

[POSJ]

I'm really impatient...I need to use my head instead of being impatient.

I used .125" flat on the bottom after I cut the bottom of the door off. I know I need to go slow, but I have no self control. On the driverside I am going to go with the spaced tack technique and take my time. I might pull another door from the JY and redo the cut if it bothers me enough. I'll get some pictures of it tonight when I get home.

 

[POLAR_JEEP_04]

:wave:
following

 

[MoparManiac]

I'm really impatient...I need to use my head instead of being impatient.

I used .125" flat on the bottom after I cut the bottom of the door off. I know I need to go slow, but I have no self control. On the driverside I am going to go with the spaced tack technique and take my time. I might pull another door from the JY and redo the cut if it bothers me enough. I'll get some pictures of it tonight when I get home.

My only advice is do things the way you really want to and take your time. Don't set impossible goals for yourself or you WILL take shortcuts and not be happy with the end result.

One of the main reasons I got rid of my MJ is that I wanted to redo everything and was never really 100% satisfied with any of the mods I made. I always took shortcuts to make it to the next big event instead of just focusing and building it the way I really wanted to.

 

[foxwar71]

One of the main reasons I got rid of my MJ is that I wanted to redo everything and was never really 100% satisfied with any of the mods I made. I always took shortcuts to make it to the next big event instead of just focusing and building it the way I really wanted to.

Never satisfied with his 150HP big block swap

 

[POLAR_JEEP_04]

the 440MJ is gone now too?!Ross are you the only nac member with a crawler still?

 

[foxwar71]

the 440MJ is gone now too?!Ross are you the only nac member with a crawler still?

And Rob!!

 

[POSJ]

Thinking I am going to just go ahead and link the rear from the beginning to eliminate redoing it in the future...That being said I have a ton of questions. I am asking over here on instead of Pirate because I want to try to bring more tech and knowledge over here rather than people jumping ship to when their builds get more complex.

I've been reading a bunch on double triangulated vs single triangulated links. Single seems out of the question because of rear steer imposed by keeping the lower links straight. What degree on the lower eliminates rear steer or at least mitigates it? Would 10° on both sides with a total of 20° for lower be enough to make it manageable? Thinking a little out of the box on my rear link set-up but I don't want to spoil it so I am keeping some of the info a little secret...Below are some links to what I am talking about for those that might be viewing but don't know what I am talking about...

Rear-steer due to single-triangulated links:
http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/rear-steer.htm

 

[POSJ]

http://www.nc4x4.com/forum/threads/link-suspension-basics.108936/

 

[POSJ]

Im a terrible person for what I did to this door...

Live and learn I guess, new to welding to sheet metal and didn't heed the warnings.