Recent content by XJlimitedx99

To answer your question, the correct rim size is 17" diameter (duh), and 7-9" wide. The width is called out from BFG on their website for that particular tire in that size. The rim width and wheel offset is very likely cast into the back of your wheels somewhere. The bigger question I think...

BUMP HEY @Jeep450r you haven't updated this in NINE YEARS. I just finished reading through to then look at your profile and you see were last active... yesterday?! What happened to this thing? Looks like you really cut your teeth with this rig. Coming from another mechE who started my XJ...

I did a larger TB awhile back (62 mm, IIRC), and I sometimes don't like it because I find its hard to hold a steady slow speed, such as driving through a downtown area at 20-25 mph. Its like I accelerate too much even with the smallest throttle input I can give, then need to let off an coast...

I also recently (few months ago) bought a Banks Revolver before seeing this thread. I did not encounter any of these issues. I was pretty pleased with the product I received.

Just want to chime in with my experience. I've had a TnT radius arm kit for years. The crossmember is super beefy and is a great skid plate, but the single-piece design is certainly a drawback. Fortunately I've only had to remove it a few times over the years, but every time I need to I am...

I used Ruffstuff mids and I think Dirtbound fronts and rears when I did mine. I like having the 3/16" in the middle because I can drop my unibody rails on rocks and not worry about them. 10 gauge is appropriate for the front and rear section. If I were to do it again, I'd get a version that...

Check out my thread on cherokee forum for details on how I did my rears. Fronts are still garden edging lol.

That doesn't really make sense because the TJ and XJ use the same RCV part number. He probably meant to say WJ stub shafts. Unfortunately the WJ shafts use CV style joints, so you cannot mix factory WJ stubs with XJ inners. I am unaware of any other stub shafts that will work.

While I can understand your desire to stick with bolt-on parts, you're gonna pay for that heavily with the custom shafts. Drilling the rotors is really no issue as the hole locations and size are non-critical. Moving to the 5x5 bolt pattern will also incur the cost of new wheels, and either new...

That does look awfully high when you draw it in. Nice and flat though. The 1-ton TRE's use a 7/8"-18 thread. This is the kit that I bought with high angle TRE's for the drag link and offset TRE's for the tie rod. https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R1304.html

Any reason you couldn't go OTK with the drag link end on the Teraflex knuckle? I'm assuming the knuckle is probably tapered bottom-up. Could you drill it and use an insert to flip to a top-down taper and run the TRE up top for super flat steering? Not that its necessary, but if you're going this...

This statement makes this decision less straight forward. What really matters here is your use case. How do you intend to drive the rig? V8 + locked diff + 35's + party pedal = ka-boom! For the most part, the rear axle will take it. 8.8's are good, even the 97+ factory 29 spline 8.25's are...

WJ hubs have a 5x5 bolt pattern. They would probably work if you wanted to deal with that. What do you mean "running in to the issue of different studs"? Look into the dual diaphragm booster swap after your WJ swap is complete.

check out this calculator to play with gear ratios, RPM, and speed: http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html Looks like you're not too far off based on what you're saying. At 68 mph, you should be running 2521 rpm in OD with a tire rolling radius of 31". I know you said 33's, but this calculation...

I think most people that do the WJ knuckle swap use WJ rotors and drill the XJ bolt pattern into the WJ rotors. I have seen people say the Explorer rotors can work too. Quick Google search shows the Sport Trac has 1/2" lug studs just like the XJ's. You sure you have the correct rotors? I'd...