Recent content by WAM174

Maybe that was just on earlier models. It seems late model Wranglers and Cherokees used a computer controlled electric motor actuator. This video is trying to sell replacement blend doors but it has good info on the actuators and blend doors for Cherokee & Wrangler 97 to 06...

Perfect. Exactly what I needed to know. Thanx.

No it's not XJ OEM tech. But I'm looking for a creative solution and both rigs use the same engine. Just looking for people who have messed with this already, and the sheet metal isn't going to matter. I have both an XJ and TJ and am not seeing any obvious heater design differences. I found...

If there's such a thing as a bypassing heat control valve, I wouldn't care if I had to work it manually under the hood. But I don't think my XJ has one of those either. Are you thinking of anything specific? Like from a certain model & year? It would have to splice into both heater hoses and...

I've got a some unwanted heat leaking into the footwell areas. Probably some doors not closing or sealing properly or something. I was all set to simply put a shutoff valve in one of the heater hoses (4.0) when I read something about Jeep using the heater core flow to even out hotspots or...

A friend has a YJ with a Dana 44 and rear brakes sourced from an 87 XJ Towing Pkg (2.5" x 10"). He folded up a back plate and needs a replacement. Anyone have the part number for the towing package back plate so he can do a search? Or know a parts source? He picked up some parts from the local...

I was referring to the front. But I use Prothane progressives front and rear. The fronts are convoluted hollow cylinders that drop into and are loose inside the front coil springs. As I said, I run about 1.5" free space above them. The rears bolt onto the frame, replacing the stock bumps...

They're available in various lengths. You select or cut them to the proper size to get a certain amount of free height above them. I think I'm using about 1.5" of free height. Maybe you should start with an inch and if you feel they come on too soon or too harsh, start cutting them back...

Maybe, depending on various factors. But I think it's a mistake to just assume they compress 60% and no further. The more you load them, the more they compress. But it's not one to one -- it's as the name implies, progressive. But still, not an absolute hard stop. That's what the custom...

New livrey Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I think I see. You removed the metal pieces from the flares and are clamping the flare to the fender with oversize washers catching the plastic lip.

So the bolts bear down on what? Did you drill thru the flares, and the heads are now visible?

Actually I've been messin' with it this morning and it seems to be going good. I'm drilling a tiny hole in the plastic tab through the metal clip window. Then a loop of safety wire twisted tight and trimmed. This will keep the plastic tab in the metal clip. But of course it won't stop the...

Yeah, I didn't quite follow that. You say you "drilled holes in the fender" -- did you mean to say drilled holes in the flares? If I've guessed right, you simply bolted the flares through the original fender holes and now you can see the bolt heads on the outside of the flare? I can see that...

I'll bet I'm not the only one having trouble with the metal pieces inside the stock flares coming loose. Those little plastic tabs aren't staying locked in place. Was thinking of a small pop rivet in each, but the tabs are pretty small. Could epoxy them in place, but there must be a better...