Recent content by phred

Thanks much - I'll try to stay out of the way. There isn't much fluid left in the system - can't see any in the reservoir, even. XJ only gets driven about once every 6 months and there isn't any noise from the steering, so I think it's ok. I'd rather replace a seal than wrestle the gear box...

After reading all the posts about replacing the Pitman arm lower seal, I have just one question. Can the seal be replaced with the steering box in place (after removing the Pitman arm), or does the box have to be removed? Thanks! Phred 90 XJ stock

JimC Thanks to your note, here, I figured out a connector had worked loose from the brake switch, causing my shifter to stick in Park like yours was. Been bugging me for too long. Everything's good, now! Thanks! Phred. '90 XJ, stock.

Bigdady - I don't have to push the brake pedal to shift out of park. Is the interlock relay in the steering column or tied to the ignition switch? I'm wondering is related to the problem with button on the shifter? Thanks. Allen

Got some time this evening so I popped the plate off at the base of the shifter and looked at the mechanism (don't have to remove the handle to see well enough). The square piece is pushing down fine past the teeth, so the problem is not there. Also looked at the shape of the teeth and figured...

I'll try your suggestion and report back what I find. Thanks for thinking about this. Allen

Thanks for your post - I went out and shoved down on the handle and pounded it a bit for good measure with my fist. No change. I then popped the T-handle off so I could push directly on the rod in the middle of the shift lever. Same problems. Looks like the fault is not with the T-handle...

Couldn't find any other discussion of this problem so here goes. The release button on the tranny shifter won't go in when the ignition is in the Start or Run position. Only time the button will go in is when the key is in what I think is the Accessory position, the first click past Locked...

I was a bit worried about getting my steering damper off after reading the stories on the forum about having to use a BFH or worse on the tapered bolt through the drag link. Then when the tie rod puller didn't have a wide enough spot on the drag link for both jaws to clamp on at the same time I...

JeremyB on the DEI 552 side, is the yellow wire in the 5-wire harness, or is it in the 10 or 12-wire harness (lost count)? thanks

Thanks JeremyB - I'll check it out today.

Hi everyone - I use a DEI Valet 552T to unlock the doors in my 1990 Jeep. Works great for that and was a lot cheaper that replacing the OEM remote controller. I want to program a new remote control fob but I'm running into a problem. The sequence for programming the receiver to recognize a...

Here's the answer I got from Quadratec on Daystar bushing torques. Nice people. I'm posting this for anyone else who installs their own polyurethane bushings so they will know that the factory torque specs don't necessaryily apply and to be careful. I can't be the only person who will ever...

Figured out both problems. The nut on the top of the link was not cinching up because the threads were stripped out of the nut and off the threaded end of the link. Got a replacement at the salvage yard and took care of that. The other problem is more annoying. Turns out the metal tube that...

Hi everyone I'm replacing the bushings on my sway bar and connecting links with polyurethane and have some questions about torquing the bolts and nuts. The FSM lists a spec of 27 ft-lb for the nut on the end of the connecting link that attaches to the sway bar. I can get only to about 20...