Recent content by Onkover

Appears to be the hearter control valve. See if it clicks with the heater/cooler off.

WHAT? The shaft being longer doesn't mean that it takes longer to get the power to the end of the shaft. Not like these shafts are made of rubber. Cut a wooden dowel at 1 inch and another at 3 inches. Mark them and roll them on the table and you'll see what I mean. Does it pull left before it...

XJ tint jobs are basic. I did alot of tinting in the past but nothing recently.

Clogged cat and maybe a bad O2. The computer should be throwing a code for the o2 but may just be getting bad readings due to the bad cat. IF the fuel mixture was to lean it would throw a code. Wouldn't take long to throw it once it was past the warm up stage. Timing is not an issue being that...

The 4.0s are prone to over heating. First mistake you made is installing a 160. This not only will make the computer think to put it into warm up mode but allows the water to flow to fast. This doesn't allow the coolant to stay in the radiator long enough.. as said before. Then taking it out...

Pulling the cover isn't all that bad. I see the main reason why is to get all the fluid and even any metal particles out of the housing. The D30 has a lip on the inside that even with a lower drain plug you would not be able to get the fluid out of. Most particles will drop into this and without...

RESPONCE BEFORE THE POST WAS EDITED I'll just get the :flame: out of the way first... over 60 posts and you haven't seen anything about NOT USING BLOCKS! hasta Now that that is over with...Not the way to go man. They will create axle wrap and wear out leafs. Not to mention that if your going...

Check the weep hole on the water pump. Get it up to running temp and see if it's leaking around the pump. IF this is the case your water pump is bad and needs replaced.

Mine never looked that good!!:gee:

PLASMA CUTTER?!hasta

RUBICON. enough said

Start doing some research into stroking it. The block is going to have to be reworked anyway and you might as welll bore it out and set it up as a stroker. When I replaced the engine I'm running now I was stuck on either stroking it or doing little extras. I went the extra route. Exhaust got...

So it's going in for a full tear down and rebuild. Are you wanting cheap, modest build up and bad to the bone?

Your the one that helped me figure it out. I would say that I did go through more wire, connections, sensors and everything else to piss off the POPE!! (Thanks for pointing me in the right direction, it works great now) When my splicing was goofed up it was doing just as you say. The lack of...

Band Clamp... right. Most auto part stores will have them or any muffler shop. YOu can pick them up online also... just search for exhaust band clamp. I recomend using stainless. Then all you need is to make sure to get the right tube size.