Recent content by oldcancer

good to know, seems i may be able to find a use for one of the spare LA blocks in the garage after all, thanks EDIT: plus i'm not sure i can resist the temptation to say i've got an LA block 383 stroker in my xj

i've been quite curious as of late, i've seen a few youtube videos of chrysler 318 swapped xj's, and the thought came to me that if a 318 can be stuffed in one of these things, and a 360 is basically a 318 with a different bore and stroke. so theoretically it should be almost exactly the same...

hey guys, i'm in the process of putting a pro comp adjustable track bar on my 92 with a d30 front and i've hit a snag, everything is done except for tightening the bolt on the axle mount, i don't have that little flag tool thing to keep the nut from spinning on the axle mount and i can't get a...

^^^^this i would also have someone shake the truck around on the ground and watch to see what's loose....up&down....and sideways ect....you may get lucky and see what's messin about there without having to pay a shop to diagnose it

i would like to try to repair the current one if possible, because as i said i do live in canada so the bolt is likely literally welded to the body due to rust, so if anyone knows how to get the cover off to repair it that would be cool (my buddy has an 87 where the cover literally fell off)...

1992 xj 2 door search turned up no results, so either i'm exceedingly smart or this topic hasn't been brought up yet :rolleyes: so recently my seat belt has been undoing itself at random moments.... such as when i'm doing highway speeds and all that jazz sometimes i literally have to put it...

couldn't hurt

yeah i'm in the same boat with mine....it's daily driver first....but it's also all clunks and no money to fix it lol

as far as oil leaks go, i've read that almost every oil leak (especially the valve cover) on the 4.0 can mask itself as a rear main or oil pan leak, so start from the top and work your way down, as far as diagnosing that vibration, i've said all i can say, i really don't know as much as i like...

definitely makes nothing but sense, especially with the clunk being under braking and like i said earlier, check everything, don't be afraid to over think a bit either, sometimes it helps....in small doses and speaking of over thinking, maybe check inside your rear drum to see if that's full...

in that case i would suggest checking the shocks as well....they tend to get a bit clunky over the bumps when they're old/blown, as far as front end stuff goes, i wouldn't recommend going cheap, sometimes it's just better to bite the bullet and go all out, especially when it comes to the front...

check all of the suspension, not just the trac bar, i've got a clunk in the front end on mine, i know something is loose under there, even though everything seems tight (on my rig), something could very well have been jostled loose on your rig at some point during the winching or the...

i have heard many people say that even though they came from factory with 215's or 225's, the speedo actually read faster than actual speed and that running 235's actually evened it out, as far as the misreading on the odometer, it could be a bad speed sensor? but i'm just throwing out ideas...

well guys, a while ago both of my mirrors stopped adjusting, so i folded them inward and sprayed the insides with spray lube.... which worked fine for the driver side, but my passenger side won't adjust at all, just hangs facing downward.... which leads me to believe something in there came...

swing away is definitely the way to go.....it's the most practical in terms of ease of access as well as cargo space management...... for example, imagine being stuck and with a flat in just such a way that your rear hatch won't open.....can't see pulling that 35 inch spare through your front...