Recent content by green8052

Well I ponied up for the $26 in brackets from poly performance...... it is a good excuse to get the welder hooked up......lol I will post up some picks when im done...... Thank you all for the inputs. Terry

Freaking hilarious!!!!!! Go with the truck, it iwll handle braking much better than the jeep. The truck weighs more and will get pushed around less by what you are towing. For example i have towed my wrangler with a grand cherokee and with a half ton ram and i would take the ram all day long...

Post up a pick so we can see how it looks....... I can gusset this as well to strengthen it as well. Terry

I like the cut of your jib sir. I do have said stock at the house and will look at engineering this my self. I am not afraid to cut and weld (INSERT EVIL LAUGH)!!! Terry

This all really leaves me wondering... how is it that there are folks out there at this lift height, with stock steering and sway bar mounts, that have no clearance issues? Is there really that much variation in the way these things were assembled at the factory? I'd be curious to know what...

I am not flipping the TRE on the knuckle. I was going to flip the TRE where the drag link and tie rod connect. At the point of the inverted Y. You think that will work?

I like the idea of the brackets.... this will also help get my sway bar out of my springs. Do any of you know if the draglink to tierod TRE is the same size as the knuckle TRE? I am thinking I can flip the Tie rod TRE with a OTK insert and it will clear the sway bar bracket. Let me know what you...

Ok here is the deal. I added a 2" spacer to my front end, this is in addition to 3.5RE coils. The problem is I cant turn all the way to the right because the draglink TRE is hitting the lower sway bar bracket. I do not have a drop pitman arm on it yet, is there any other way to keep it from...

Check this out seems to be the best thing to use with a factory style bumper. http://detoursusa.com/xjbackbone.php Terry

anti seeze all but the nuts going on the studs. on the nuts use plenty of thread locker. as for the mating surface of the arm and the knuckle, i have seen two ways of doing this both with no failures. 1st way is to completelt clean the top of the knuckle and slide the arm on with nothing but...