Recent content by ehall

if the sensors test okay but the computer throws codes saying that the sensors are not okay then something is wrong with the +5v circuit or ground or the computer itself

https://www.allpar.com/threads/the-1980s-1990s-chrysler-computer-codes.229009 21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V). Probably bad oxygen sensor 22* Coolant sensor signal out of range - May have been disconnected to set timing either of those would lead the computer to...

You can probably replace the ends with something else, ask him what thread he is using. I did not use the SFR arms at all; I scrounged up a set of (discontinued) Synergy arms with dual-durometer bushings and high-travel bends. This is with the TNT cross member. I have since flipped the arms to...

sounds like the idle air controller is sticky. The gas pedal is an air pedal that opens the butterfly valve. At idle the computer controls air flow by opening the IAC. If the valve sticks it won't get any air and you have to manually work it with the pedal.

I have SFRs brackets, they're impressive. You can use factory crossmember, or any other bolt-in skid (their xmember skid is deluxe but only for 231 if that matters)

i had that once, forgot to install the second snap ring after the needle bearings

Yokohamna Geolandar have been awesome for me, all kinds of weather, long distance highway and off-road

Parts were ordered (minus the links). Ended up buying FK heims for all of the axle-side ends, since the JJs also seem to have return-to-center issues. Will have to get some PVC and start test fitting in the next few weeks (couple of other projects ahead of this and may take that long for parts...

SFR frame-side bracket doesn't have any outboarding and I would have to rebuild it to add any. The Ruff Stuff bracket should be get more length, and is vertically adjustable, and I'm currently running a TJ/LJ pitman arm (flat) so I have a few inches of movement on that end of the drag link too...

I've neglected this thread! Married life is harried life I ended up taking the DD to Rausch for NACFest last year and banged around on the greens and blues. The suspension articulates pretty well. I broke a 242 shifter bushing (zip tie still there), and a couple of other small things, but no...

It sounds to me like dead solenoid. The starter relay behind the dash sends power to the solenoid. A single click usually indicates relay is working. A thunk indicates the solenoid is closing but the bridging contacts may be dead. You can verify by putting a voltmeter on the middle solenoid wire...

Verify that you have the idiot light sender at the back of the head on the driver side (very small threaded stub with a wire on it). That was deleted at some point, maybe 96 for the OBDII swapover (don't remember the year exactly). If you have that, you can replace the sender (an on-off switch)...

This is the recipe i'm going to start with, will double-check measurements first Track Bar Ruff Stuff body side trackbar bracket (2-inch x 9/16 holes) (2) Ballistic Fab 9/16-to-1/2 reducers (for bracket bolt holes) Synergy 4805-12 end with 43233-01 bushing (2-inch wide, 1/2 hole, 7/8...

Yeah the more I look, the more it seems they won't be the same length. I don't think a couple of inches will matter though, like you said.

these TMR heims are pretty nifty, available with either poly or bronze https://www.tmrcustoms.com/collections/lifetime-heims/products/7-8-lifetime-heims That would be good at the axle end of the drag link (keep rubber up top for the NVH, but let the axle end flop around). Expensive but I would...