Recent content by deumbower

I fought my AW4 for two years chasing problems. Replacing the TPS many times. I pulled the solenoids out of the transmission and tested. Cut out all of the connecting plugs and hard wired them. Then one day I got fed up and when it started acting up I leaned over and snacked the dash on the...

Don't know about a 95 but on my 96 there is a small silver can directly under the steering column. It looks sort of like a turn signal flasher. This is the timer for the key light. It must have a little heater in it because it gets pretty warm. It gets powered as long as any door is open...

To avoid the error code on later models you could hook the switch up to send 12v to the WT/PK wire going into the TCM, but this isn't necessary on the 96's.

The wire coming from the brake peddle is White with Pink trace, but putting a switch on this wire will only keep you from unlocking when you put on the brakes. It would stop the 12v from getting to the TCU when you brake. You need to put the switch on the wire going to solenoid #3 in the...

I believe it's Light Blue with a Yellow trace. At least this is the color that is going into the TCU that is under the dash on the passenger side.

Your kidding. That has nothing to do with how efficient the CAT is performing, which is what the ECU flash is supposed to fix. CAT efficiency monitoring. Sounds to me like the consumer is getting screwed again.

I am curious. Could you give me some insight in to how you inspect the CAT to see if it needs replaced, for this recall? Do you just do an emissions test? I haven't had this recall done because after the recall if your CAT becomes less effective the ECU will set the CEL but as it stands right...

That is correct.

If you are going to try and clean it, be sure to check the springs that are under the two contacts. They get real weak. When I cleaned mine I just stretched these out and thought that would be good. Needless to say I had to take it back off a week later because the backup lights quit again...

Do you mean that when you push the break peddle the fronts lock up fairly easily? If so it could be that your rear breaks are not working at all and your fronts are doing all of the work.

I just recently did all 4 with Monroe Reflex shocks for about $33 each. I am very happy with the ride. These are silver. Not sure if that maybe what you have in the front now. Also I had allot of body roll when going into corners and new sway bar bushings up front fixed me right up.

I just got a kit from this guy. http://www.wlsheadliners.com/. It’s not too hard to install. Just take the headliner clear out and clean it all off. Then glue the new material down with the adhesive in the kit. He even includes new clips for the dome lights. I don’t know if you can buy...

One. Could be a bad plug wire. I had one that was cracked once and it would only arc to ground when the RPMs where really high, causing a misfire. Two Programmers are really expensive, and the cheap handhelds only read the error codes. They do not show you any sensor data.

I have an Autoxray EZ-Scan AX5000. http://www.autoxray.com/product_detail.php?pid=96 It's a little pricey at around $400 new, but it will do OBDI and OBDII. Well worth the money IMHO.

I would pull the fuse for the radio and check both of the contacts in the fuse box with a test light or meter. One of the two contacts should be hot with the key in the run position. If your not getting any power there, the problem could be your ignition switch. I have seen this on other...