Recent content by carves

Yep ... one more year - and a SMP PC308 ( not the cheaper, T-Series ), that I fitted in 2007 , ... will have lasted as long as the original, "factory" sensor. The other SMP products I've fitted have only been in for 4 or 5 years tho.

On an XJ with the AW4 ... yes. But fit a temp gauge to the gearbox and see whats going on - before leaping into, what maybe, unnescessary cooling changes. Yep ... truly an insignificant little thing .. that does squat for "cooling"

RHD XJs have the useless little, factory towing option, tranny cooler - fitted as standard, ... no doubt to make up for - sticking the heat exchanger in the hot side of the rad. As for the OPs issues ... I'd bypass the rad fittings and bang a proper, tranny oil cooler in the vehicle.

Dont bother with changing the thermostat, ... as, Open to Closed Loop, occurs quite quickly after startup - when the coolant temp is still as low as 70*. I havent tried it ... but disconnecting the O2 sensors may well cause the PCM to apply the Open Loop fuel presets in relation to whatever...

See how you go with this ...

It will be easier to have the assembly out ... or at least remove the console. Slide the handgrip off the lever ... and with the lever in the, up, position ... fit the curved/hook end of the rod, back in and around, the cam for the ratchet. The lever is just folded metal, not solid ... so...

Just as a comparison /info I've recently gone to 4.10s ... and only running 30" tyres. Quite happy with the result ... Better driveability and negligible fuel use variation.

Your vehicle to do what you want .. ;);) Essentially a bad idea tho ... coz of the cabin intake and fumes issues ... IF thats relevant to your vehicle use .. ;) The other thing is ... You will have the same problem as with spaced hoods, "cowl" hoods, and rear located, hood "vents" i.e. ...

You need to feel around on the switch body for a spring loaded button. Push it in, gently wriggle and pull switch knob and shaft, out. edit ... it should be there if you have a stock switch.

:thumbup: :laugh::laugh: .

Too simplify it a bit ... A bottle of pre-mix contains 1/. Water for cooling 2/. Variable amounts of Ethylene Gly (typical) ... or maybe Propylene Gly (rare) ... as anti-freeze, Which in addition to, not being as good, a heat exchange agent as water ... does provide a few extra degrees...

Put simply .... 218* is way too late for the fans to come on and attempt to cool IMHO. Vehicles in some locations may work OK with a late control fan activation ... but it will be dependant on ambients. If you are looking at replacing the mech fan with an electric one ... duplicate the mech...

Thanks for the pics ... have been looking for some that showed those style uprights in that position. Its a fair distance between the uprights ... so give some thought to the material strength of the tube ... if you intend to use the bar for bumping furry animals at high speeds .. ;)...

The roaring is caused by the fan blade pitch. Fanclutches and their percentage of engine revs engagement is normally matched to a suitable blade pitch. A little bit of digging around tech info shows that the stock fan pitch is not, best suited, to the factory original, light duty fanclutch...

PVC piping was a common system down here for ages ... not so much anymore for most of the reasons already mentioned. Depending on the rack style ... they're easily held down with, ... large hose clamps and imagination ... think truck air filters ;) ... a length of thin, bent to a U-shape...