Thanks for your reply/help. So even though it's a Torx head bolt, you hammered on a hex socket? That seems interesting. you used an impact driver? I can try that. I was a little hesitant to use that tool, but can try that. I just don't want to mess up the bolt head. I suppose as a last...
I'm having a rough time removing the driver's side E12 bolt on top of trans. Haven't yet tried the passenger's side. I'm using a variety of extensions to get up to the trunk area and using an extension on the racket handle for leverage. Twice I thought I had it crack the bond only to realize...
There's a rod connecting a portion of the exhaust pipe to a fixture (of some sort) which is bolted on to the transmission (this is the fixture the cross member was bolted to).... see attached image.
I could just cut the rod (separating that connection of exhaust pipe to transmission) or unbolt...
Sorry, never mind regarding original post. I got into it and removed one bolt on the bracket and realized there's another bolt way up and difficult to get to. Just wound up undoing the linkages and think that'll do it, separating4WD linkages from bell housing.
I've seen videos where most, if not all, of the 4 WD linkages are disassembled and removed in preparation for lowering the transmission for clutch replacement. I'm wondering if I can just remove the bracket that holds the linkage assembly to the transmission bell housing.........and leave the...
Thanks for the replies. I'll check out the other 2 (possible) for possible leaks. I like the idea of leaving the oil on as undercoat. I suppose it picks up some amount of dirt. Trade off.
Thanks for the suggestions. Changing the transmission oil was not really on my radar, but will do a bit of research on it and take care of that while the transmission out. Thanks again.
While I'm crawling around under my Jeep to replace the clutch I'm seeing a lot of oil all over the place. I think the oil pan gasket and main rear seal are needing to be replaced and am now planning on doing that when I have the transmission removed. I'm asking if anyone can suggest good ways...
Just a follow up. Did manage to remove the rear drive shaft. Of those 2 silver metal bands on the rubber boot, had to wind up unhooking the one closest to the transfer box. I think I may be able to snap it back closed when the shaft is reinstalled otherwise the zip tie suggestion should work...
Thank you for the replies. I’m wondering if I did remove that metal band any thoughts about using a simple hose clamp to take the place of that strap if I couldn’t reuse it?
I’m looking to replace the straps and bolts that hold the drive shafts in place on the yokes. In looking for replacements the costs are all over the place. Some around $8 a set, quadratek set is $51. Dorman and Moog $12 range. Any advice which to get as replacements?
I’d rather not spend $51 a...
I've got the 2 U-bolts removed. On the opposite side (transfer box side) there's a ribbed rubber boot that end of the drive shaft fits in to. At the point where the drive shaft enters the rubber boot there's a metal band around the rubber boot. Does that metal band need to be removed, or do...
one other question.... is it recommended (or at least a good idea) to loosen the transmission bolts a bit prior to raising the vehicle so as not to be shaking the vehicle about (trying to crack/loosen the bolts) while it's up on the jack stands?
Thanks!
Maybe an obscure question.... preparing to lower transmission on '99 XJ, I'm trying to figure how far off the ground I'll need to raise the vehicle in order to remove the transmission while strapped to the HF Pittsburg Transmission Lift. I measured the lift itself and to the top of the strap...