Recent content by BrettM

First of all, thank you Billy for emailing me at my personal email about this thread. It's a long story that I don't fully understand, but I've had major problems this past month with my email and PayPal account. It would seem someone else hacked in or something and I had to go through a long...

look closely and you can see what I did. I built bump-pads from the axle going up over the springs using 3/16 plate on top of tube. I started with the stock bumpstops, but sideloading them tore them up a bit and I used stock rear bumpstops instead, just welded them between the coil tower and...

if you build a crossmember for the back end, are you going to use a 2 piece driveshaft?

Doing that manual test tells you that the problem is in the electrical system, but doesn't tell you where. Bad TCUs are very, very rare, and probably not the problem, but if you have access to a known good one it wouldn't hurt to try it. Most AW4 shifting problems are the TPS. I can't confirm...

looks good, except I hate the whole windshield area, but that's just a cosmetic complaint. use lexan for the rear panels so you can still see the terrain.

I would think the D44 pinion would be the weak point with 33 spline alloy shafts, so I would stick with 30 spline alloys and carry a stock one for a spare (I'm pretty sure the shorter one will fit both sides). With Nor-Cal wheelin, 35s, locker, and not heavy on the gas I doubt you would ever...

it is indeed rare. my money is still on the TPS, even if it tested right.

it may be electrical, but it's highly unlikely it's the solenoids in the transmission, so don't let him start digging into the tranny. the problem is most likely with the TCM or a related sensor. Try a junkyard PCM and maybe a new TPS even if yours tested okay.

Level10 and IPT have valve body upgrades that I've heard wonderful things about, but are unnecessary with a relatively stock motor as the AW4 is very strong and reliable in stock form. The AW4 only has a lot of electronics if you want everything to function like factory. I swapped an AW4 in...

I would use flux-core for welds with a 110v machine on 1/4", it burns hotter. Do some good prep work, bevel the edge a little, weld both sides, and then it's all up to your skills, which won't need to be anything amazing.

nope, not stronger there either.

why would you need to? After building my front bumper, I never took it off in 3 years. If you really need to, a sawzall or cutting wheel would make quick work of the tube. If for some reason you think this would be a frequent event, you could put in some flanges and make removal just an extra...

yep. there are a variety of fixes, from simple toggle switches to complete controllers.

obviously that wasn't good for the tranny, but it's hard to say just how much damage was done. the AW4 is a very tough tranny, I wouldn't worry about it unless it gives you more trouble. if it does go bad, don't bother rebuilding it. the AW4 doesn't take to rebuilds well and it's commonly...

I would make some minor changes, but I think this is the best cage I've seen so far: from this thread: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=901647 I would go under the fender and up to the bumper and put a little more of the structure above the roof instead of below it.