Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum!
If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page.
Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
Did you ever find a resolution to this? Mine has been doing the same thing for about a year now. If I shut it off when its hot, its hit or miss if it'll start again. The starter will just stall out trying to spin the motor, only when hot though.
any car audio place sells 'bass blockers' they are capacitors that will put a cross over point at certain frequencies. I think I went with ones that blocked anything below 150 hz to mine...
x2
even the regular disks in my angle grinder or cut off wheels never worked whell on aluminum, they would heat up and get all gummed up form teh aluminum.
I think I paid $275 for my front driveshaft and $330 for the rear one. They use a larger than stock size tubing though, which added a little to the cost.
The thing that fixed mine was finally getting all the air out of the system. I bought an inline filler neck and installed it in the upper radiaotr hose (which was full of air to begin with) I figured havign a cap that I could open in the highest point of the system would make it easy to bleed...
x2, but I noticed you said its leakign from the last stud? Is this the front one or the rear one? The front stud is supposed to get lock tight or thread sealer (don't remember which one) on it because it goes through the water jacket in the head. Maybe there wasn't enough sealer on it and its...