Recent content by avnsteve

replaced the switch, still no low beams, no high beams, only flash to pass works, the headlamps definitely work, I installed them in another rig to check. PO rigged up fog lamps off the head light plug, eliminated that, low beams still don't work, WTF?

definitely need a new switch, it failed, overheated, and melted the multiplug. I have bodged it together, but doubt it's gonna last

lotsa good tips, I will look into this tomorrow, replies to follow. thanks for the guidance!

just picked up a 98xj, 4.0, automatic 255k miles 2WD. bought new headlamps, they still don't work. the only part that works is high beams when you hold the high beam switch. I'm familiar with renix, but these "new" rigs are unfamiliar territory, any help?

I know they're not popular here, but it's the easiest way to get my rig back on the road. Shipped to 78640

I'm having similar problems, so I did this: http://www.naxja.org/forum/search.php?searchid=4809388 ecomike seems to know his biz when it comes to renix, if you cannot find your answer by reading or searching, maybe try sending him a PM, or read through all of his posts...

may not be the gauge cluster, PO may have bent the float arm and that causes the gauge to read inaccurately

thats the solution to my problem, thanks!

4.0 with 42re transmission, not throwing any codes, cleaned the TB sorry

recently replaced the TV (kickdown) cable, not necessarily related, but now wife and daughter report "its still acting up" I go under the hood, to "listen" it starts fine, idles fine, UNTIL you blip the throttle (by hand at the throttle body) and then the rpms climb over 2k and then casually...

I bought a set from 5-90 and was totally amazed at how many things were improved! shorter crank time, smooth idle, you name it

on the topic of ball joints, does anybody have any guidance for the procedure? any pitfalls to watch for? was planning to "borrow" the press from vatozone

did you determine the engine has rod knocking or is that what the seller said? I ask because I have had 3 of many 4.0 develop "piston slap" which sometimes confuses an amateur into thinking it's "rod knock". I drove 100,000 miles on a motor with a slapping piston. you may not need to rebuild...

a little tip if you've got one, use an air hammer with a cut off chisel bit. I insert the modified chisel bit into a 1/2" drive socket and use that to press the caps through. it's much more precise than whacking with a big ol hammer, and less likely to do any damage to the rest of the yolk or...

anyone?