Recent content by 75SV1

I've used the inserts and also had the WJ knuckles tapers opened up with a tapered reamer.

Since your has a distributor, there is a Camshaft Position sensor in the Distributor. Also, check the distributor shaft. See if it can be pushed side to side. The spec is .001. Yeah, had that happed to me too. Also, I did have a coil go bad on one of my '98s.

Boostwerks make a kit for a return line for the 97+ XJs. I wonder if that would help the older ones?

I had issues with the ignition switch electronic board. I used a Noid light to check if the injectors were getting power to them. I would crank, but no lighting of the Noid light, till I released the key. I mentioned it to a friend. He said it might be the ignition relay. I replaced it and it...

I do have two sets of Metal Cloaks. 3.5 and 4.5. Both are slated for my two XJs. I did look at Rock Jocks. I think they have a 3 rated coils. The 4.5 MCs came up cheap locally. I hear Skyjackers are maybe mid tier. ??? Always heard good about MC stuff. They used to have an XJ kit. Very premium...

You mentioned a YJ engine in another thread. Depends on the year. I think 91 or 92 has the 4.0L. I'd be at $800 max, as stated before. Not running drops the price a bunch. Ol Blue does make the case, if you have someone else do the work, the cost will far exceed the worth of the XJ. Unless it is...

Also, some replace just the hose and put in a section with a radiator cap. So, eliminating the pressure bottle.

Another option is to go with the Viper Coil setup. I swapped on a '99 head and did this. Also, watch out depending on if your State has emissions testing or check. I think an earlier block and or head might be an EPA issue. Then again, there might be exemptions for vehicles 25 years or older.

The RENIX era coolant reservoir has its issues. I'd convert to a later open reservoir. The red stuff is probably rust in the system. I'd do a flush. I forget what ones I've used. Red Devil and there is another that does well on rust. A bit expensive though.

My wear on the tires was/is good. I have a set of Falken Wild Peaks. I forget the metric designation. Sort of a 32 x 10.5. Rides smooth, no pucking etc. I did wheel it twice and in the mudd. I kept up. I had to be pulled out once. I also have been planning a 'full' WJ brake system. I was at 4.5...

As for gearing, there are a few factors. Driving intent, ie on Road or off road. Also, on road location. Flat lands vs rolling hills vs mountain. My experience is on road and flatland vs Eastern Mountains. I like RPMs at 2000 to 2200 at 70 mph. With 31's 3.73 is basically stock for an auto. For...

I do run or have run WJ wheels on my '98 XJ. I did use the WJ bearing hub. I used WJ rotors. On the ball joints. The upper is the same for the XJ and the WJ. The lower needs to be a WJ ball joint. The taper on the lower of the XJs vs the WJs is different. I forget what my upper is on the '98. I...

Yeah, check what is wrong first. Also, see what is in there for control arms. If stock, then ???. I like CORE stage 1s. Also, depends on intent of use.

I recommend less than a 1/16th of a turn to begin with. Also, after its moves a bit, I've been putting on regular motor oil on the threads. Someone here mentioned to use thread cutting oil. I scoffed at that. I apologized. Thread cutting oil has sulfur in it. It is used as a lubricant. Some mix...

I don't own one. I have seen a few, and I mean few at the PnP over the years. The drive belt setup is very different. $$$ for some of those parts. Steering gear box, AC stuff. Also, the trackbar. I think a few vendors do offer upgraded trackbar.