Recent content by 75SV1

I run a 2" lift with 31's. Mine are narrow, 9.5 width. No rubbing. Also, steering stops might need to be adjusted.

I used a GM set from Ruff Stuff about 10 years back. The covers are still good. I used a set from a vendor off of EBay. They started cracking with in a year or two. So, get GMs. And the 1-Ton GM cross over steering is so nice. I use a steering stabilizer on mine. Yet, there isn't really a need...

'00 and '01 are the electric actuator. I can't remember if I had that exact problem or not. There is the blend door linkage. It goes bad. I should have replaced it when I had the HVAC box out. I think Dorman or Crown make an upgraded replacement. I used an aftermarket steel one. Let me see if I...

Just adding to my previous post. Yeah, my 351 Windsor, was like you say. I think the OP can adjust each side in the Jeep setup. With his bore scope, I think he can take the crank 180. So, piston at the bottom. Loosen or take off the Rocker Arms on #1. See if the valves are closed. He could get...

OK, this is what I'd do. And yes, I've been there. Mine was with fixed roller rockers. They take a much shorter push rod. I'd pull or loosen the spark plugs. Turn the motor with a breaker bar to such. I have heard you can turn by the power steering pulley. If not, then Clockwise on the...

I'd look at push rod lengths. If you take the push rods out, do the valves remain closed?

Also, check the distributor shaft for play. It should have one .001 play. Also, I'd suspect the coil. Coils can be intermittent. I did have the ignition key electronic board go out on my 2000 XJ.

I have Ironman 4X4 (not installed), Stinky Fab (installed) and Rubicon Express (not installed). The SFR and Ironman are for an OTK (Over The Knuckle) setup and Cross Over Steering. The Stinky Fab bracket is a bit sturdier. Both about the same on the Track Bar Stiffener. I think the Rubicon...

On both of the setups for my XJs, I used an OTK trackbar. On the first one, I did not need Offset TREs. I used a Ruff Stuff 1-ton GM kit. Possibly the only kit out there at that time. Next one needed an offset GM TRE. It used SFR brackets. I used a Ruff Stuff front diff cover with the bracket on...

I went with ZJ type control arm brackets on the axle. So, the bracket on the body stays fixed. So, you could weld on some washers, to create a 'fixed' location. Then adjust the Core LCAs. I would set it to the rear. I would think most stress or shocking forces would be towards the rear. I do...

I don't remember needing to swap front drive shafts on mine. 2000 XJ, 2" lift. I did do a Hack-n-Tap on the rear output of the 242 though. I had a deal on an Adams Drive shaft that fit. Not really needed though.

Mine had the larger stock tires or the 225's. It was actually reporting 25 mpg. Mine was a manual B-10/5 trans. Also, I think someone put in a 3.55 rear end. I still have the MJ. Another build out in limbo though. If you plan to rebuild your 4.0L, I'd look into a stroker. Some say the Long rod...

My '88 MJ 4.0L 2WD got about 23 mpg on the highway. I've heard one or two report more. I've heard the same on some XJs. I'd have to drive them to believe it though. I did have an '98 with about what you are running. I'd get around 17 to maybe 18 highway. I think 14 to15 local driving. I had a...

First, lift and tires? Also, header, 2.5 catback? Next the AW4 is controlled by 5 different inputs. Maybe more. TCU, EMC, TPS, Brake Light sensor, and NSS or also called Range Selector in '98 and up. I would guess TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). Possibly a dead spot in it. Still best to...

I used the Rough Stuff kit : https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R1304.html I think it was $250 or so, about 10 years ago. Then there's welding etc.