Recent content by 4x4_Welder

Fuel to the rail and correct pressure are two different things- The check is free, rent the tester from Autobone, when you bring it back you get your money back. No parts to remove, you have a schrader valve to thread onto, so you probably won't even get dirty. Low fuel pressure will do...

Ok, I'll just build something. Won't be the first tie rod and drag link I had to make up.

Sounds low on fluid, once the fluid warms up it the fluid expands enough to work properly. My truck does the same thing, due to a leaking seal that brings the fluid to just that level. If the fluid isn't burnt smelling or overly dark, it should be OK. Take another look, check the tranny...

Maybe I'm not using right term here- I don't want to go with a hi-steer setup, I want a solid tie rod between the axles and the drag link to go to that. I have dealt with the Y system many times in the past, the only thing it's good for is scrap weight IMO, no matter who makes it- your toe...

I want to set up my wife's XJ with crossover steering to get rid of this stupid y-link system, but the only systems I have found off the shelf need the knuckles and pitman arm bored out, plus I keep reading about issues with tie rod twist. Before I drag out the TIG and DOM, is there a system...

That's basically what I was thinking, I just didn't know if mine was missing the dowel pins or what. First engine I've seen without them or any other way of locating the head on the block or cylinder. Oh well, guess I'll just have to be careful about it and take my time. Thanks for the help.

Great engine, but you can see the Renault influence in the accesory design and installation. My big issue on this thing now is how to line up the cylinder head back on the block- the pinch weld on the firewall keeps me from using the recommended method of dropping the head over a headless bolt...