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Grooved Knuckles

99_XJ_

99_XJ_

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Howard, Ohio
Hey fellas, I'm in a pickle about my steering knuckles. Over the years, the brake calipers have worn grooves in the rails where they slide. Not sure of a good way to fix it.. Can't afford new knuckles and this is my DD.

I inquired to the local mechanic if one could just weld a bead in there and smooth it with a grinder. They say nay - apparently it's cast iron.

What do y'all think? What are my options here? I can't buy 2 knuckles at 100 clams each not including the labor to replace them...
 
People repair grooves like that all the time. Pre-heat with a propane torch, fill the groove, grind smooth.
 
Sounds like I'm going to need to commandeer a welder. Any specific welder? I've done lots and lots of welding, but I am BY FAR not a pro nor have I welded cast. I know arc generally gets better penetration than MIG - which worries me with the cast iron. I suppose that is the reason for the preheat though.

What settings would you generally use?
 
A wire feed will work just fine. I would set power on mid to high (depending on the amps available), and boost the wire speed a little.
 
Knuckles are cast steel not iron. I had mine welded and they lasted a while, they're starting to groove again now but they should hold up a year or so until you need to do it again.
 
I took a med-large bastard file and just smoothed those babies out. Sure, I took some of the tolerance away, but I fixed that with the little clips that come in the box with the new pads. No welding necessary.
 
mhopton said:
I took a med-large bastard file and just smoothed those babies out. Sure, I took some of the tolerance away, but I fixed that with the little clips that come in the box with the new pads. No welding necessary.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't recommend doing this, getting it welded is the right way to go. If you take off too much especially from the sides, which actually hold the the caliper in, it will just make the problem worse as the caliper can move more and accelerate the grooving process. This could also lead to the caliper coming out of the groove all together and possibly causing and accident. When it comes to brakes do it right or don't do it at all. Besides the clips only work on the top part of the knuckle, most of the grooving issues occur on the sides of the knuckle faces anyway.
 
Welders... need input.

I need to fix a knuckle but only have a Craftsman 110 arc welder and 6011 and 6013 rods. Suggestions on which rod and heat setting?
 
souske said:
AC only? Or do you have DC as well?
I would use some 3/32 7018, it worked well welding the cast steel on my 8.8
Click to expand...

AC only..

Using 6013 and it's working, got one deep hole done. Hit them with a dremmel and got all the rust out first.

I'm heating the knuckle, as i'v read needs to be done.. but curious why?
 
I've done the fill 'n file a few times. A flapper wheel on the grinder works good, as it takes a little longer to smooth down the blob of weld, without getting into the meat of the knuckle too quickly. I have a Hobart 140, and it did a great job.
 
OverlandXJ said:
AC only..

Using 6013 and it's working, got one deep hole done. Hit them with a dremmel and got all the rust out first.

I'm heating the knuckle, as i'v read needs to be done.. but curious why?
Click to expand...

You are preheating because of two very different metals. The speed they warm up and the speed they cool down is considerably different. If it looks like you are getting penetration,I'm sure you will be fine. Honestly I think the propane torch is just as important on the cool down, maybe more important if you don't have a very powerful welder.

I just can't remember which one cools faster.

Hank
 
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