Stroker project part 2

ok, so the engine it in pieces and I'm ready to get it to the shop. Baring any HUGE price problems I'm thinking:
1. Bore and Hone
2. Balance
3. Pressure test the head
4. Spec the head


The last one is so someone like me will not end up messing up the head assembly and blowing up the engine.

Does this sound reasonable? maybe even have them port it?

Thanks

The last one is so someone like me will not end up messing up the head assembly and blowing up the engine

Click to expand...

Head assembly is a lot less involved that a bottom end assembly if you are planning on doing that yourself.

Having a shop port your head can run up into the hundreds of dollars because of the long hours needed to do the job. I am doing it myself and it is taking forever to get the full "race prep" job that i want but it will save me about $450

you also need to think about having the cam bearings pressed in, maybe a valve job, and magnafluxing everything.

Make sure and have the valve guides sleeved if the head has many miles at all. Loose valve guides are a real hassle. Never have the guides knurled.

spazegun2213 said:

ok, so the engine it in pieces and I'm ready to get it to the shop. Baring any HUGE price problems I'm thinking:
1. Bore and Hone
2. Balance
3. Pressure test the head
4. Spec the head

The last one is so someone like me will not end up messing up the head assembly and blowing up the engine.

Does this sound reasonable? maybe even have them port it?

Thanks

Click to expand...

I'd advise the following:

1. Magnaflux the block & head for cracks before you start.
2. If the block is OK, bore and hone as required (+0.030" should be more than enough).
3. Check the head surface for flatness. Mill only the minimum required to make it perfectly flat.
4. Check the valve stem to guide clearance. If it's excessive you have two options; have the guides sleeved and reuse stock Jeep valves, or have them reamed to 11/32" and use Chevy valves.
5. Regrind the valve seats (3-angle grind better than standard 2-angle for low lift airflow).

Depending on your budget, you could also do the following:

6. Spin balance the rotating assembly but probably not necessary. If the pistons and rods are matched within 1g for weight, that'll be better than factory tolerances.
7. Port the head. Doing it yourself will take ~12 hours but it'll save you the ~$500 that you'd have to pay a shop to do it.
________________________________
Dino's "Mean Green Machine"
1992 XJ Laredo 4-dr - 4.6L I6 HO Stroker - 181k miles - AX15, NP231, D35c, D30

263hp@4900/321lbft@3300-3800, 1/4 mile = [email protected], 0-60 = 5.8secs
Websites - Jeep 4.0 Performance, 4.6L Stroker Build-Up, Dino's Jeep Tricks