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Is my battery dead?

Reindeer

NAXJA Forum User
Location
America
Drove my 92 stock XJ this morning, ran great.

Did some regular maintenance stuff:
added some oil
checked fluids, air cleaner
checked and replaced distributor cap and rotor
applied some anti-corrosion grease to the battery terminals.

After that, the engine would crank but not start.
Then after three cranks, I just get a clicking noise and nothing else.

Is my battery dead or is it something else?
The battery is at least 6 years old, and last winter was tested as holding no more than 9.5 amps. After I cut the cables and put new terminals on, the battery was able to hold 11 amps, but no more.
The lights work, but I have no idea if they are dim or not.
I can test this.

If it is the battery, and I need to replace it, are there brands or stores that people recommend or suggest that I avoid?
 
red top - optima - if you wanna throw down the bones...other than that replace with 60 dollar duralast and forget about it - get a good cca or cold cranking amp rated battery for better performance.....
 
cell might be out this is what happened to my old optima after 4 years... you can get a free trickle charge see if that helps and get a battery test free at autozone... i doubt its the wires its the battery
 
aparke4 said:
cell might be out this is what happened to my old optima after 4 years... you can get a free trickle charge see if that helps and get a battery test free at autozone... i doubt its the wires its the battery

Wish that I had the "bones" for a red top. :D
I will investigate Duralast.
I need cheap and good, as my budget is tight right now.
Also, the Jeep is parked in the drive, so getting a free test would also be nice, but not possible without a tow, thanks for the suggestion though.
I have a ten dollar discount coupon with Sears.
Any experiences out there with Diehard batteries, good or bad?

Thanks for the replies.
 
Diehards have always been pretty good to me, I just bought red tops for the XJ and TJ's because they were on sale...and I wanted some extra bling in the engine bay...
 
I've had pretty good luck with medium grade generic batteries, and last time I bought a Duralast for my diesel and killed it stone dead through no fault of its own, Autozone replaced it without batting an eye. There's an advantage with Autozone in that they computerize the warrantee, and you can collect on it anywhere.

Of course if you're wheeling and winching and all that stuff, all bets are off on the cheapo batteries. If you just need to start and go for a few years, just get a battery with a decent length warrantee. I think they're all about the same.
 
I've never heard anything bad out of diehards...but i've never run one in my XJ.

I replaced my battery last summer. There was nothing wrong with it, however i'm the 3rd owner and this was the orig. battery that the factory put in...and my jeep was first registered in NY...so atleast 3 years of harsh winters. I figured 6 years on the orig. battery was long enough. Went and got one from my buddy at Napa and havent had a single problem out of it. I don't recall the cca's on it right now, but if I go out there later i'll pop the hood and look.
 
I bought an Autolite from Checker Auto Parts for $69.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=EXI&mfrpartnumber=5884&parttype=5005&ptset=A
I tested the old battery, and it was on it's way out with only 117 CCAs. Enough to keep the lights on but not enough to turn the engine over more than a couple of times.
Apparently the old battery was also not rated for use with this engine, at group 35. Jeeps apparently require a group 58 (whatever that means).
Took it home and installed it, and the engine roared to life. :D
The lights are much brighter now as well.
I'm glad that it wasn't the starter or something more serious.
Thanks to all who helped. Much appreciated.
 
Yes, it feels good not to have another major repair.

Recently I have sunk about $900 into it:
another oil change
new lights all around, including new Silverstar headlights
new tires
water pump
new shocks
cap and rotor
battery

I think that some other repairs and such will have to wait awhile.

It still needs:
replacement left side rear view mirror
replacement windshield
rear main seal
head gasket

upgrades:
fog lights
stereo - yes, I don't have a stereo currently

All these things will have to wait... *sigh*
but at least it's running good now.
 
Reindeer said:
I bought an Autolite from Checker Auto Parts for $69.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=EXI&mfrpartnumber=5884&parttype=5005&ptset=A
I tested the old battery, and it was on it's way out with only 117 CCAs. Enough to keep the lights on but not enough to turn the engine over more than a couple of times.
Apparently the old battery was also not rated for use with this engine, at group 35. Jeeps apparently require a group 58 (whatever that means).
Took it home and installed it, and the engine roared to life. :D
The lights are much brighter now as well.
I'm glad that it wasn't the starter or something more serious.
Thanks to all who helped. Much appreciated.

The BCI Group Number is used to standardise various case sizes and terminal placements - it has very little to do with power density or power output. I've seen BCI 26 batteries (rather small) with more power than BCI 27 batteries (damn near the biggest batteries you can get, in automotive and light-duty.)

Since the BCI 34 has a smaller footprint than the BCI 58 (but it's a shade taller...) we can fit Optimas in without too much trouble. A BCI 26 should also fit well - I don't have a listing of sizes to tell you what else would fit offhand...

Be glad it's not a Ford - they liked big, short batteries - you couldn't really do a swap with those. MBZ and BMW are almost as bad...

5-90
 
5-90 said:
Be glad it's not a Ford - they liked big, short batteries - you couldn't really do a swap with those. MBZ and BMW are almost as bad...

5-90
Oh, I have had Fords, and let me tell you how glad I am that I don't own a Ford now. Worst car I ever owned.
I could do with a Bimmer as a second car though. :D
 
Everyone is recommending batteries but forgetting what could have caused the battery to die.

Once you get the jeep on idling, using a multimeter whats your voltage ? If your alternator is operating corectly you should be getting ~13.9-14 volts. Once you turn it off your battery should eventually bleed down to ~12.5-12.6 volts.

GEt those numbers and let us know..

pete
 
jeepsrock said:
Everyone is recommending batteries but forgetting what could have caused the battery to die.

He said that it was "at least six years old". That's enough to suspect that IT was the only culprit... unless shown otherwise.

Then again, it would be free and easy to pop the meter on there.

My battery turns 7 in December. I don't intend to let it get that old. Replacing as a "maintenence" issue before winter.

Den
 
Geeze, 7 years, 6 years, man I start getting antsy after about 50 months... I'm figuring on replacing both red tops in both the XJ and TJ next fall when they turn just short of 50....
 
RichP said:
Geeze, 7 years, 6 years, man I start getting antsy after about 50 months... I'm figuring on replacing both red tops in both the XJ and TJ next fall when they turn just short of 50....


Well, yeah! The 7-year thing is why I've been antsy about it for a few years myself.

Not quite antsy enough to replace a "perfectly good" battery, tho... :)

Den
 
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