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The Black Pearl

Thanks guys. I’m not inclined to separate the axles. Buy them and throw them under your Comanche Casey


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lol. Well if I have to buy both and sell one, I might have to. Comanche is staying stock and more of a nice work truck. Ive got the Cherokee for wheeling.
 
Axles are up in the for sale section. If someone here wants them I’ll give Naxja priority over fb


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Read the whole build thread, looks great. Building a new 44 myself, as my jeep has a wedge 44 and my buddy grabbed a 77 housing for me dirt cheap. I also got the TNT truss, but I ordered it bare as I'm gonna do my own coil buckets and such. Out of curiosity, what did you use for your axle side LCA brackets?

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Axle side lowers are the normal TNT brackets, 2.562" (2" and 9/16) with a 9/16" bolt hole. TNT also sells a low profile LCA bracket. Having a coil bucket that's recessed for the bottom of the coil sort of how the stock axles are would be nice.
 
I thought about using one of those plates. Clayton sells a delrin version, and new venture and artec both sell machined steel versions. I am gonna mount prothanes off of my coil mounts so only doing fancy coil retainers and some 3.5 OD tubing with a smaller tube on top to hold them

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Axle side lowers are the normal TNT brackets, 2.562" (2" and 9/16) with a 9/16" bolt hole. TNT also sells a low profile LCA bracket. Having a coil bucket that's recessed for the bottom of the coil sort of how the stock axles are would be nice.

Yeah I turned the TNT cool retainers into adjustable upper stops fro the prothanes and used the Artec for the lowers.
 
Sweet let me know how that prothane set up works.

Got the rear within a 1/16th of an inch centered under the Jeep, I opted to use the furthest of the center pin holes on my perches and am still at 103.5” wheelbase. Got the perches burned in with the Jeeps weight on the set up. Also cleaned and rearranged my shackles in the no lift boxes.

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So far the rear is a few inches taller than the front which is ok. I figure the leafs will settle over time and wheeling. These are RE 5.5” lift springs in the rear. We’ll see how they hold up.

My stock leaf spring retainer plates won’t work with the u bolt eliminators I welded onto the 9” so I got a set ordered yesterday from ruffstuff so they should be here in a few days. The stock rear caliper banjo bolts are considerably smaller than the 3/4 ton Chevy calipers I’m running so I yanked both soft lines and drilled out the block the the banjo is threaded through. Didn’t get photos since I made a mess with brake fluid.

Gave the Jeep a wash at dusk and I’m happy with the turn out. Still a good amount of work to be done before it sees the dirt but Rome wasn’t built in a day.
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Lookin' good! Any plans for fender flares?
 
Thank you sir. For the immediate future, no plans. In fact, I've never really been a fan of how most flares on the market look. If I start getting tickets for how far my tires stick out, I'd rather ghettofab some mud flaps or something that are quick detachable.
 
So I was bleeding the rear brakes today getting the jeep ready for the driveline install and ran into an issue. The brake light on the dash illuminates intermittently and the pedal is real spongy- little resistance and travels to the floor. I had someone in the Jeep running the brake pedal while I was bleeding the rear and I'm still getting the spongy pedal feel after solid fluid without bubbles is bled from both rear calipers.

I'll take the master cylinder off the booster and bleed it on the bench tomorrow just to 2x check but I'm thinking this issue has to do with needing a larger more master cylinder to push these larger calipers. Thoughts? I wish there was a driveshaft on it so I could see what kind of stopping power I have under this condition. Not seeing any leeks from the fittings I monkey'd with when swapping the 9" either.
 
I’m not as far in the build process as you are, but I think Phil mentioned that he used a WJ MC with a F250 d44 and it was spongy as well. I did some research and it looks like the dodge 99 Durango/Dakota MC might be a direct fit and has a slightly larger bore to push more fluid. This is what i plan to do if my brakes are spongy when I’m finished.


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Yeah, I've been reading the same thing as far as the Durango unit bolting right up. Fingers crossed I have air in the MC and this can easily be resolved.
 
Hmm, that's odd. My jeep has 44/9 as well, and stock MC. I believe the F250s had a dual piston caliper, but mine has pretty decent stopping power even with $10 ebay pads

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Got my pedal feel back after bleeding the stock MC still in the engine bay. The banjo fittings for the rear calipers looked to be just loose enough to seep brake fluid so I got another 1/8th or so of a turn out of those. Re-bled and got a good amount of bubbles out of the rear and a tiny bit from the front. I’ll keep looking for signs of leaks but that might have solved it.


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