• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

New Stroker, What oil?

PapaGeno21

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Rhode Island
Ok guys I am reading that 20 page oil thread.

I will be doing a 4.7 soon so what oil should/can I use now?

What kind of oil should I use and what weights?

Anyone know a stroker break in procedure because I cant find one.

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
I would recomend an oil with ZDP, As you have probly read, the flat tappet cams need an additive called ZDP. It was removed because it damaged catalytic converters. Most diesel oils, Joe Gibbs "Hotrod" oil and Brad Penn's oil (forgot the specific name) have ZDP and the proper street detergents.

As for the break in procedure you can check out www.camcraftcams.com. and look on the left side for the "cam failures" section. He talks about oils and then gives his break in procedure.

~Alex
 
Last edited:
Frank Z said:
Rotella 15w40

Dose any one now if GM has re-released there M.O.S additive and if so what is the #####?
My 15/40 is kinda getting a little bit thick in theses 15-20*F mornings.
going to have to buy a heated dip stick soon if i don't change my oil soon.:D

Flash
 
What about the Lucas oil addative?

Its like 10 bucks a quart. Is that stuff any good, like 5 quarts normal Castrol GTX you know and the 1 qr lucas. Thats what I have been using...
 
Well damn I used to use that good ole Johnson's baby oil back in the day. Its a shame I cant get her up anymore. I mean its like carrying a dead snake in my pants all over the place. Hell I can barely get a piss going anymore, takes me about 5 minutes to piss. The only thing that can get me up is when I just nail my power wheel chair and get the front wheels off the ground and just ride a wheelie down the hall. Then I lock up the rear brakes. I sometimes do burnouts infront of the elevator to get up to my floor, I fill the whole hall with smoke. It is ridiculous when I purge my nitrous system too. I sometimes shoot flames out my 5 inch exhaust I got comin out.
 
I run Valvoline VR1 10-30. Some of you guys may want to take a look valvoline still has a raceing line of oil that has zddp in it it says it right on the bottle
 
Well damn I used to use that good ole Johnson's baby oil back in the day. Its a shame I cant get her up anymore. I mean its like carrying a dead snake in my pants all over the place. Hell I can barely get a piss going anymore, takes me about 5 minutes to piss. The only thing that can get me up is when I just nail my power wheel chair and get the front wheels off the ground and just ride a wheelie down the hall. Then I lock up the rear brakes. I sometimes do burnouts infront of the elevator to get up to my floor, I fill the whole hall with smoke. It is ridiculous when I purge my nitrous system too. I sometimes shoot flames out my 5 inch exhaust I got comin out.
That's funny.

Rotella 15w40
Diesel oils also have less ZDDP in them since the eco-nazis got a hold of diesels a few years ago.
 
Go to Eastwoodco.com and buy some ZDDP additive.
 
I used Brad Penn's SAE-30 for the cam break-in and first 500 miles. I've been using the 10w30 racing oil since(has 1300 or 1400 ppm ZDDP)--I've passed 20K already.
 
Last edited:
I just broke mine in. covered the cam lobes and bottom of the lifters with the jelly like stuff comp gave me. Then used about 6 quarts of gtx 10-30w and the lucas additive. (ended up neediong more oil cause the whole engine is dry, gotta soak into the lifter and stuff...)
 
I just broke mine in. covered the cam lobes and bottom of the lifters with the jelly like stuff comp gave me. Then used about 6 quarts of gtx 10-30w and the lucas additive. (ended up neediong more oil cause the whole engine is dry, gotta soak into the lifter and stuff...)


why didn't you presoak the lifters?
 
Of all the cam companies and machinists I talked to they recommended not to pre soak, or pre pump up the lifters. Besides lifters come with some oil in them to begin with. Most likely it was the oil galleries that were dry than the lifters.
 
Of all the cam companies and machinists I talked to they recommended not to pre soak, or pre pump up the lifters. Besides lifters come with some oil in them to begin with. Most likely it was the oil galleries that were dry than the lifters.

probably. That is why I also spin the pump for a bit before. Did they say why not to prime the lifters. Thats the way I have always done it with no problems.
 
GM EOS is an effective additive. However, if you do not use an "Energy Saving" (API/SM) oil, you've got half of the problem licked. Use API/SL or older (a better parts house will carry both SM and SL/CI-4 on the shelf, just as a better parts house will carry both GL-3 and GL-5 gear oil on the shelf...) and you don't have to worry about additives.

API/SM has no corresponding Cy rating (yet - I could have missed one!) so using an oil rated for a Diesel should be helpful.

Also, some performance synthetics manage to get an SM rating without using ZDDP (or other organometallic anti-scuff additives that poison catalyst beds,) through the use of other additives - so check the label on the back of those bottles as well. It would say something to the effect of "Safe for use with flat tappet engines" if this is true (similar to seeing a GL-5 performance synthetic gear oil that is "Safe for use with yellow metals" on the shelf. I believe Redline and Amsoil both have that statement on the back.)
 
They said that if you pre prime the lifters there is a chance it could hold the valves open until they bleed down. I can agree with that as I reduced preload once and a lifter didn't bleed down prime until about 5 minutes after start. Nice back firing.

x2 on spinning the pump. Also, before the first start I also leave the plugs out, pull the fuel pump relay and spin the motor until I see oil pressure.
 
They said that if you pre prime the lifters there is a chance it could hold the valves open until they bleed down. I can agree with that as I reduced preload once and a lifter didn't bleed down prime until about 5 minutes after start. Nice back firing.

x2 on spinning the pump. Also, before the first start I also leave the plugs out, pull the fuel pump relay and spin the motor until I see oil pressure.

I usually run the priming rod with a drill motor until I see stable pressure, and then one full minute afterwards to prime everything.

The tappets? I just coat them with assembly lube ("too much is almost enough" - you can always buy more of the stuff!) and drop them down the holes. Even dunking them in oil makes it harder for the lube to stick to them, so I just dunk them in the lube instead.
 
Back
Top