Chrome axils

I have 4:56 diff gears and a ARB locker in a Dana 30 and 33s. I am thinking of getting chrome axils as I have broken 2 axils/unis this year. Question is will I make the crown wheel and pinion the weak point.

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The weak point will move yes but its not a big deal unless you really beat on it. A lot of us run 4.56/locked with 35's and cromos without problems. But even a broken stock shaft can damage the carrier and gears with shock unloads. So my $.02 is go cromo.

Weak point is definitely relative. They will be no weaker than they are today, you'll just break a lot less often than you do now.

Honestly not sure where the weak point moves with upgraded shafts. Either the u-joint in the knuckle becomes the weak spot (would still take out the shafts most likely), the u-joint at the yoke, or the pinion gear. I’ve been running a locked Dana 30 with 4.88’s and bead locked 35’s for 4-5 years now between 2 different XJ’s and only broken 1 front shaft. I carry spares and drive accordingly. I did just break the straps off of my rear yoke in Moab with no other damage, so maybe that’ll be the new fuse up front. Mine are getting upgraded to u-bolt style yokes front and rear once UPS drops the off.

Maybe instead of buying stronger shafts you should shave some weight from your foot?

The short side shaft (drivers side) is normally the one that breaks. Back in the day (before D44) I got where I could swap one out on the trail in 15 minutes. I would first replace that one with a chromo, not necessarily both.

The chrome molly shafts will be stronger as a shaft, but the u-joint ears are not really any stronger due to the material removed to make the hole for the 760 u-joints.

Those shafts are cut for circle clips, which you should use. But in addition, consider spot welding the cap to the ear. The cap won't spin/ throw the clip and should save your shaft ears from a thrown cap. Infact, you can take a stock shaft and do this, but the next thing that went was that I twisted the axle at the splines.

The 4.56 gearset is a weak combination for a LP 30 with upgraded shafts.
I know people who have tubed and trussed their axles to try and solve this.
I'm not sure it helped, but I have replaced (3) 4.56 gear sets in a LP D30 and don't ever plan on doing that combo again.

Ultimately the solution that DutchVDub lefthandedly suggested.
Drive with finesse, and like you want to drive it home instead of trailer it, and you should be golden.

I wouldn’t waste my time on a LP D30 when HP ones are cheap and a direct swap.
Left handed? Heck no, I’m right handed like the good lord intended.

Thanks for the replys. I currently carry spare axils and like you say it is a quick fix but acassionly I do flog it and have broken 2 axils this year. I do have full circle clips on the unis but it is a pain to do. I wish there was a tool to quickly grind out the ears on the yoke instead of the way I do it with a stone and dremil wheel.

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I feel a strong need to point out there is no such thing as an axil.

....

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Still not a Jeep part, just something that tends to hit them when wheeling. LOL. It’s also a ring gear, not a crown wheel. All good though, we were able to figure it out.

cal said:

I feel a strong need to point out there is no such thing as an axil.

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I am grateful someone other than myself spoke up. My inner stickler had almost gnawed through its tongue.

crown wheel is an Aussie thing and the axil is just my poor spelling.

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Well you guys are upside down, so I guess I can forgive some brain scrambling.