Greg Smith Power door locks writeup PRE-1991

[PyroZona]

Ok, I'm not sure if I'm the only one this is happening to, but probably so...

My locks have worked fabulously since doing this mod, except for the fact that the relay that's wired to the "LOCK" side of the circuit has blown (I think) twice...making it so that "UNLOCK" still works great, but when trying to lock the doors, everything reverts back to "the little locks that COULDN'T". Of course, getting back into the kick panel and changing out that relay fixes it again, but this has happened twice now.

Greg (or anyone else), is there anything in particular I should check on that might be causing the relay to die? I'm thinking that I will probably be running a 10 ga. wire (with 30A inline fuse) from the battery to the relays for a stronger 12V source, since I have tapped into the red wire in the kick panel presently. Thinking that might help...but not sure if that would cause the relay (especially since it's only happening to the locking relay) to die.

Any helpful suggestions would be most appreciated! Haven't had the time to do the power window fix as of yet, but probably will when this incessant rain stops (my garage leaks like a beeotch!!).

Thanks all,

Pyro

[Greg Smith]

First I have heard of this problem w. the door lock fix. Possible causes: bad batch of relays, using relays not 12v 30 amp rated, relay getting wet, poor connections to and at the relay. I would check the connections and try a different brand of 12v 30 amp 5 blade relay. Going to a 10 amp line to battery lug on starter relay near battery w. an inline 30 amp fuse at that connection point helps for stronger power lock action on these old locks. Good Luck. Good Luck. Greg

[Jeep839]

ok so i have a question....i havea 90 and i have this same problem but it is to all locks not just the driver side. so the question when i do this relay install will it bring enough voltage to every lock to make everyone work or is this just a fix for the passenger side??

[oldmustangjunkie]

Originally Posted by Jeep839

ok so i have a question....i havea 90 and i have this same problem but it is to all locks not just the driver side. so the question when i do this relay install will it bring enough voltage to every lock to make everyone work or is this just a fix for the passenger side??

Yes. I had the same problems you described and Greg's write-up fixed them all. This is a great cheap fix. I had more trouble with the kickpanel screws than anything else. Thanks, Greg!!!!

[burntkat]

well, I did this mod myself-- except I came up with the idea by myself <I'm one of those electrically-oriented folks>. Works great.

Regarding the blowing relay-- try putting a Bosche relay in there-- they are very stout and I'll bet you're just using low-end relays.

[Greg Smith]

Here is a link to the current writeup w. pics.

http://southeasternxj.com/tech/tech_locks.htm

Greg

[flag2442]

Another happy customer two years later. I was clicking them on and off all evening smiling and annoying my wife.

Thank you,

flag2442

[NotMatt]

Indeed, it's been almost 8 months since I did this to my rig and I still play with the power locks from time to time, admiring their smooth trouble free operation and satisfying "thud" when locking and unlocking.

[Greg Smith]

Greg

[89LimitedXJ]

Originally Posted by Greg Smith

There is a simple fix that often works for slow windows that was first done as far as I know by Jay3000 on Jeepsunlimited and later by myself. JeepinJoe has a writeup on his website also w. some pics. Basically when motors and wiring get older the amp draw is not enough through the small gauge wires to power the motors and switches. The simple solution is to run a 10 gauge wire from the purple (per my 89 FSM) power wire (for pre 91s IRRC) in the driver's side kick panel. That wire should be the power wire going from the fuse panel to the master switch cut the wire and connect the end going to the switch to the 10 gauge wire going to the battery lug on the starter relay next to the battery w. an inline 30 amp fuse. Of course you will now even be able to use the windows w. the key turn off. Hope this simple fix helps. Here is a link with the discussion and other links on Jeepsunlimited. http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...hreadid=561143
Greg

Could this window fix be ignition switched/relayed for the ignition? That way it is only live when the key is in and in the ON position?

I am going to institute the lock and window fix this weekend. I am ready to turn this 89 Cherokee Limited over to my Father so he can start enjoying this ride.

This is a great write up you have going and these need to end up in a FAQ or Tips and Tricks section.

Great site and I enjoy it very much and look forward to learning more about this little XJ!

Matt

[Greg Smith]

Perhaps but you would have to find a ignition triggered wire of at least 12 gauge on a 30 amp circuit to get the benefits of the higher gauge for the needed additional amp draw that appears to be necessary. I preferred the easier way w. a 10 gauge wire direct to the battery lug on starter relay w. an inline 30 amp fuse. Besides I like being able to operate the windows w/o turning on the ignition. Good Luck. Greg

[DIGITRUCK]

Hey Anyone,

'88 XJ Cherokee Laredo 4.0L Auto 4WD.

Did this mod using the Double Sockets with Bosch Relays. Using a 10Gauge Wire from battery for power.

Start vehicle then locks won't open/shut. I do see the interior well lights dim slightly when I hit open/shut on right pass side as well as driver's side.

Did all connections exactly as the Schematic. The only thing I can think of that I wasn't too sure was for 86 and 30. The diagram shows 86 going to pass door and 30 going to the pass kick panel.

I wasn't too sure how to identify which wires are the pass door and which are the pass kick panel. I see the wires coming out of the grommet and I cut them before the connector.

Is the wires going into the connector the pass kick panel or the pass door?

Hope I'm making sense. Need Help please!

Thx, Phil

[Greg Smith]

The part of the wire going to the other door locks is the part going into the connector if you cut the wire just after it came out of the passenger side front door just before the connector. Of course the other part of the cut wire is the part going back into the passenger door. Look closely again at the wire diagram in the link to southeasternxj.com in my response earlier in this thread. Good Luck. Greg

[RTicUL8]

Who is this mystic person "Greg Smith?"
The last time he posted on naxja was three weeks ago.

But today, someone has a question, and BAM! -
he replies before the crack of dawn.

True, his sayings are wise and sure, but he's an enigma to me.

me thinks he's a genie!

[Greg Smith]

Originally Posted by RTicUL8

Who is this mystic person "Greg Smith?"
The last time he posted on naxja was three weeks ago.

But today, someone has a question, and BAM! -
he replies before the crack of dawn.

True, his sayings are wise and sure, but he's an enigma to me.

me thinks he's a genie!

Just the magic of email alerts that a thread I am participating in has a new posting and early morning attention to my emails before my daily adventures begin. Wish I was a genie though. I have three wishes I would like granted but can a genie grant his own wishes?! The life of a genie might be fun but only if I dont have to live in the bottle! Greg