• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

How wide is 8.25 axle?

chris420

NAXJA Forum User
Location
California
I found a Dana 44 axle on craigs list with a 6 on 5.5 bolt patern for $200.00. I was thinking of swapping in new alloy axles with 5 on 4.5 bolt patern. The Dana 44 does not specify what vehicle it came out of the guy just said that it is 58" wide.
 
That narrow, possibly an early CJ. I think XJ's are closer to 63 wide. Someone will chime in if I am wrong. The 6 lug is throwing me though. CJ's never had a 6 lug.
 
About 60.5 inches WMS to WMS.

The CJ5 narrow track axles are about 50" WMS to WMS. The CJ7 wide track axles are about 56".
 
Last edited:
About 60.5 inches.

The CJ5 narrow track axles are about 50" WMS to WMS. The CJ7 wide track axles are about 56".

Essentially correct. I don't recall where one would find a 58" axle - was that listed as "flange-flange" or "WMS-WMS?"

What's the difference? "Flange-flange" would be a bare housing width (remove the brake backing plates and axle shafts, and measure between the flanges on the ends of the tubes,) while "WMS-WMS" is "Wheel Mounting Surface to Wheel Mounting Surface," or a measurement between where the wheels sit with shafts and drums in place.

Considering the lug pattern, and adding the six inches or so for brakes, that would bring it up to 64" or so WMS-WMS, which suddenly starts sounding like a full-size truck axle (not a bad thing - there are plenty of people running full-width axles.)

NB: You'll either want to get custom shafts made to revert to 5 on 4-1/2" lugs (to match the front,) or find a front axle with a lug pattern that matches your rear (if you can get a BoM number off of the 44 you're looking at, we can figure out more or less what it came out of. The BoM should be stamped into a tube, near the centre section, on the side where the cover would go. Six digits, starting with "60" or "61." The six-digit number should suffice - the suffix after that merely tells us what gears and differential it had. Originally.) Or - worst option - carry two spare tyres and wheels.

Given the commonality of the 44, it would probably be easiest to get new shafts made and make a note of what the axle came out of, and what you did to make it work. (You do keep a running project notebook on your rig, don't you? Why for not?)
 
What is project note book?
 
What is project note book?

Erm... You're serious?

When you start to make fairly major mods to a vehicle, you should get a permanently bound notebook (spiral or composition works well,) detailing things like parts donors, what you've done, how you made it work, wiring diagrams (for electrical mods,) and the like - since you're wandering past what the FSM tells you.

And, it's likely that you're going to slip when you want parts for something you've changed, and order for the OEM app (which will, unsurprisingly, be wrong at that point.)

The project notebook stays on the shelf next to the FSM. It's also helpful to have a card detailing major component changes in the glove box for when you have to go to the local for parts (like axle bearings, for instance.)
 
1f71481g33kf3m83od8cg57a950ca48a91c2a.jpg

Above is the axle and it measures 58"-59" stud to stud. I dont think I can use it because my front axle is wider than stock do to my Warn lock out hub conversion.
 
Hey 5-90,

I do have a binder with mod info in it parts# ect. What is FSM?
 
Hey 5-90,

I do have a binder with mod info in it parts# ect. What is FSM?

FSM = Factory Service Manual.

Haynes < Chilton's <<< FSM.

The manuals I'm writing are "filling in the gaps" that are left in the FSM - the FSM is tasked with repair, while my manuals are tasked with improvement. Therefore, it is recommended that you have a decent service manual (A Chilton's at least. Haynes is fine for imports, but they're not too good for domestics. I use my Jeep Haynes manual to even up the odd leg on the workbench so I don't have to cut a new one and jack up the bench to replace it...)
 
Thanks man sorry for the questions I thought for sure you would call me a dumb ass. I have the Chiltons manual. I would like to have the Factory Manual though.
 
You can use that axle if you want too. The Ford Explorer 8.8 are about that width and you see tons of people running those. You actually want your rear axle to be a touch narrower cause it'll help your turning radius. If it bothers you, you can get some 1/2" - 1" spacers and it'll get it about the right width. Nice find!

Dane
 
I agree that likely came from a narrow-track Full-size Wagoneer. If the pumpkin is centered, it's probably a late-model Grand Wagoneer. Another less likely possibility is an Isuzu Rodeo which would be apparent from the flange yoke and Metric fittings on the brakes and such.

On option that hasn't been mentioned is that since it is narrower than your front, you may be able to find adapters that add a couple inches in width and change the bolt pattern at the same time.

Edit: Are those disk brakes in the picture? If so I'd reverse the likelyhood above in favor of the Isuzu axle.
 
Yeah they are disc brakes. However the guy said that he had a disc brake conversion.
 
Back
Top