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SYE with a non-CV driveshaft?

C

chris_amrein

NAXJA Forum User
Location
fullerton
I tried searching but couldn't find an answer...

Has anyone used a SYE and a non-CV driveshaft. I plan to do about 4.5" - 5" worth of lift in the rear and swap in my new Dana 44 at the same time.

I have been told that if the output of the transfer case and the axle pinion are at the same angle that I will not get vibration. Is this true? It seems that I should be able to run a non-CV shaft because an XJ has a long wheelbase.

Thanks, Chris
 
I did it a long time ago, didn't like it because it kept the pinion down in the rocks due to the equal pinion/t-case output angle. I ruined several driveshafts with this setup.
 
you need some sort of slip in your drivetrain otherwise on any large bump or drop you will obliterate either your driveshaft u joints or your diff, orrrr your transfer case.
think of it as a ferris wheel. if the diff in attached to a car on the right side, and that car starts to drop in sayyy a ditch or rut.. the diff wants to stay in a straight line (vertical) downward, while the driveshaft (ferris wheel car) wants to travel in its given radius, so something has to lengthen and shorten when the angles of the differential and transfer case are changed.

if you need a low budget ds
go to a junk yard and buy a automatic xjs front spicer driveshaft, that should work untill you buy a cv
 
rocklandxjer said:
you need some sort of slip in your drivetrain otherwise on any large bump or drop you will obliterate either your driveshaft u joints or your diff, orrrr your transfer case.
think of it as a ferris wheel. if the diff in attached to a car on the right side, and that car starts to drop in sayyy a ditch or rut.. the diff wants to stay in a straight line (vertical) downward, while the driveshaft (ferris wheel car) wants to travel in its given radius, so something has to lengthen and shorten when the angles of the differential and transfer case are changed.

if you need a low budget ds
go to a junk yard and buy a automatic xjs front spicer driveshaft, that should work untill you buy a cv
Click to expand...

Just because you are using a standard two joint shaft does not mean you eliminate the slip shaft.

And a front XJ shaft IS a cv.
 
I run that setup on my F100 (factory setup) and it works with no problems at all..

but yeah, when i wheel the truck i drag the rear pinion over everything.
 
It's doable either way but you'll end up buying a different shaft anyway, and if your angles on the non cv shaft get to steep you will exceed the range of motion of the ujoint.

I'd just get a CV shaft and be done. You can change your pinion angle when swapping in your D44.
 
I didn't think about the fact that the pinion will drag over everything with a non CV shaft.

So knowing I am going to now run a CV shaft, will I have to reposition my spring perches? I am planning on running a 2 - 3" longer shackle along with the new spring pack. Will this twist my pinion up enough to work with the CV shaft?

Thanks, Chris
 
chris_amrein said:
I didn't think about the fact that the pinion will drag over everything with a non CV shaft.

So knowing I am going to now run a CV shaft, will I have to reposition my spring perches? I am planning on running a 2 - 3" longer shackle along with the new spring pack. Will this twist my pinion up enough to work with the CV shaft?

Thanks, Chris
Click to expand...

With my D44, I definitely had to cut off and weld up my spring perches at a diff angle.

With my pinion pointing up at 15 degrees positive (2 degrees below pointing directly at the tcase), the spring perches in their stock form were at 6 degrees positive while the leaf springs were at 2 degrees negative.

That would mean that I'd need a 8 degree shim to have the pinion adjusted correctly. thats too much so I moved my perches.

If your 44 is the same, you'll need to do similar. Measure a few times before you get anything welded up.
 
Just because you are using a standard two joint shaft does not mean you eliminate the slip shaft.

And a front XJ shaft IS a cv.
Click to expand...

yes it does, the stock xj shaft is not a slip shaft, and i no the front shaft is a cv, thats why i said spicer, but if you hadnt noticed, your front shaft is a little skrawny to be handling all that torque under high stress

measure the pinion angle, if its below 6* up or down of the transfer case, then get shims if higher sorry yea your goin to have to reposition the perches
 
rocklandxjer said:
yes it does, the stock xj shaft is not a slip shaft, and i no the front shaft is a cv, thats why i said spicer, but if you hadnt noticed, your front shaft is a little skrawny to be handling all that torque under high stress

measure the pinion angle, if its below 6* up or down of the transfer case, then get shims if higher sorry yea your goin to have to reposition the perches
Click to expand...
man you need not to respond, cause you obviously are going off what u think you heard somebody type on JU. jk, you have no idea what your talking about.
there ARE slip standard 2ujoint d.s.(on the front of every YJ, but too long for a xj rear app.). and a lot of people use the 'scrawny' shaft in the back on their rigs. questioning crash of all people
 
rocklandxjer said:
yes it does, the stock xj shaft is not a slip shaft,
Click to expand...


Who said anything about using a stock XJ rear shaft?
 
LENGTH QUESTION:
OK, I just got done doing the Performnce Offroad SYE on my 89 Cherokee with a 4.5" RE Superflex Kit, AW4, and Dana 44.

I stuck the front driveshaft in the rear last night (I'll get pics tonight) to check out the fit. Here's what I found:

In the front, I have about 30-5/8" yoke to yoke. In the rear, I have about 34-1/8" yoke to yoke. Currently, with a 2° shim that came with the kit, I'm about 2° below pointing directly at the output shaft of the transfer case. Seems about right (yes?), but could maybe go to 4°. Currently the engine isn't in, so these may not be final dimensions.

With this setup, and using a front shaft, the driveshaft *barely* fits and I can see the beginning of the splines on the shaft.

OK, HERE'S THE QUESTION:
I'd really like to use a front shaft to minimize trail spares, but I think I need a longer yoke at the axle end by about 2" over stock AW 4 front shaft. Any suggestions for a junkyard scrounge?
 
yeah I don't know how a 2 degree shim has you a couple degrees below the output yoke. My driveshaft is sitting at 15 degrees at 4.5" lift. I wouldn't use that front shaft if you've extended it 4" already, or I'd get it lengthened.

If you're guessing at those measurements, get an angle finder.
 
WobblesXJ said:
yeah I don't know how a 2 degree shim has you a couple degrees below the output yoke. My driveshaft is sitting at 15 degrees at 4.5" lift. I wouldn't use that front shaft if you've extended it 4" already, or I'd get it lengthened.

If you're guessing at those measurements, get an angle finder.
Click to expand...
I think we are talking about two different angles. Yes, my punkin' does point up at about a 12° angle towads the case. The two degrees I'm refering to is th difference between the angle of the driveshaft now and a driveshaft that would go straight eye-to-eye. In other words, there's about a 2° "kink" in the double cardan.

What I'm looking for is a longer slip yoke for the axle end of a front driveshaft that's about 1-1/2 to 2" longer than stock so I can use Front Driveshaft in the rear as well (well, not the SAME driveshaft, buttwo of the same)
 
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