Trans-go kit into aw4 - any thoughts coments.

This is my shifter setup. I don't have a TCM as I'm running the old Painless EFI system so I deleted the TCM.



Build thread is in the Advanced section. It was the older style, RAD has a new version out now. It works pretty well, the sliding rail gets sticky but I just spray some WD-40 on the it and it works well enough again.


ZJ Racer, doesn't have any dash, etc left and I didn't want 2 shifters, the winters RAD kit does it all in 1 unit. It was either that or the Rock Floor shifter.

Zombie thread... Figured it was better to post the question here than start a new thread. #sorrynotsorry

I'll be doing the 340-HD2 kit soon on my AW4. Anything in particular (gravity related) to look out for when doing this install in-vehicle?

There are only a couple of relavent YT videos, but the trans is out with VB facing up. I'm wondering if I'll have springs, spacers, etc dropping out when I pull the VB and how much of a pain it will be to get everything back in place with gravity working against me. I did a Fairbanks kit on a F150 (in-vehicle) yeeeeeears ago, but this is my first attempt on the AW4.

The Transgo instructions indicate trans removal not required, so I presume it's doable, but curious of any tips/tricks from those of you that have "been there."

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I have always used vaseline to keep the balls in the valve body while mating. :gee:

old_man said:

I have always used vaseline to keep the balls in the throtle body while mating. :gee:

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Brilliant! I didn't even have to enter a password to get into the den for that tip!

Couple more notes from my install today.

1) measure the included drill bits. My included 0.076" bit (truck setting) actually measured 0.074". It may not matter much, but considering their note that the holes are very sensitive to size, I found another bit from my set at home that measured 0.077". I couldn't bring myself to do full hot rod 1-2 shifts, but I didn't want to cheat myself on the "truck" shifts either.

2) I opted for the low hold feature, requiring installation of a brass rivet. The instructions say to drill to 0.076" and install rivet (per photo below). The rivet in my kit was 0.058", so I opted to use the included 0.062" bit, which resulted in a much more precise fit of the rivet and made it a lot easier to hold it in place. Just make sure the head is fully seated against one side of the plate before whacking it into final position.



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Would like to share shift hole sizes after I did some experimenting on a friends '98 Cherokee. Started conservative and ended up dropping the valve body about 3 times to get it where we wanted. Will have to do some more driving but currently very pleased, with the quick and firm but not overly firm shifts. Used the "SK340" kit. As far as I can tell this kit uses the same basic parts as the "340-HD2" kit (accumulator springs/spacers, PR valve springs). If you do not want the 1st gear hold feature I would not spend the extra money on the HD2 kit. You can easily get "hot rod" type shifts with the SK340 by blocking the cut back valve outboard with a piece of brake line or washers or making a spacer out of round stock. This replaces the "tight coiled" springs that the HD2 kit uses. We opted to NOT do hot rod shifts, as I think shifting like that is hard on the drivetrain, unnecessary and dangerous in wet/slippery conditions unless you are running a high stall torque converter.


1-2: 0.076"
2-3: 0.093"
3-4: 0.062"
L/U: 0.076"

With these hole sizes I found the 2nd and 3rd shifts to be fairly matched now as is recommend earlier in this thread. 4th is definitely firmer than stock or Transgo's (0.055") but I do not like it too firm as it gets annoying highway driving when shifting 4-3 and 3-4 often. The lockup is also more noticeable now but by no means "firm". Again, it gets annoying when lockup is too firm and feels like a shift especially when you move your throttle slightly and the TC unlocks and relocks often.