• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Mopar fuel tank skid install over plastic skid?

Ray H

Ray H

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Falling Waters, WV
Ive got a quick question that I think I know the answer to but Im not sure. I seem to remember reading somewhere that you can install a factory skid over top of that plastic piece of crap, all you have to do is trim around the edges of the plastic cover and the skid will fit snuggly over top of it. Anyone done this? Also, can anyone think of any reason not to do this?
This is on a 1996 XJ.

Edit; Heres an add-on question another thread reminded me of. The nut strips take 12mm bolts but Ive never seen metric grade 8s. Do they make such a thing or are is the standard metric hardware ok for this application?
 
Last edited:
Ok, I answered one of my questions.
They do make different grades (classes of metric hardware. They make class 8.8 which is between SAE grade 5 and SAE grade 8 in tensile strength and they make class 10.9 which is the same as grade 8. I cant locate any 10.9 class metric hardware locally. Does everyone else use the 8.8 or should I continue searching for 10.9?
 
8.8 will be fine.

You're not really putting that much shear load on those bolts and very little tension forces other than the tightening of the bolt itself.

Most of the things you use it for are trying to push the skid up, not pull it off.

HTH
 
Actually Im not worried about the skid but Ive got a class III hitch that will be sharing the hardware. I do intend on using it to tow a heavy load with it as well as for recovery.
 
Yes trim the plastic shield.Your hitch uses 6 bolts ? The lower grade 8,8 will be fine. The tow limit is around 5000 lbs on class III ,you shouldn,t be pulling that much on an XJ.Stopping that much load will be the problem.
Have the same set up on my 96,

Wayne
 
Thanks guys,
I got thinking how much I hate to half a$$ things and decided I should probably use 10.9 bolts so I did some searching and found a local place that sells every kind of fastener and many specialty automotive/machine tools made called Automotive Fasteners. It was like finding Blackbeards treasure. No more hit and miss with Lowes, Home Depot or Tractor Supply.
I will be towing about 4500lbs (trailer & load combined) a couple times a year for a short distance. I know Im pushing it with that much weight so Im installing a high end brake controller and getting a tandem axle trailer with brakes on both axles. I,ll see how it does and if need be, invest in weight distribution.
 
Darn! I guess I should of trimmed mine. Fit a little snug but went up fine without any trimming. And I used the grade 8 bolts with the washers, much cheaper then the nut strips. I got all the washers and bolts for about $8.
 
I probably wouldnt have payed extra for the nut strips for just the skid plate either but they came with my skid and Im installing a hitch that will be under alot of stress so I figured Id better do it right while Ive got everything apart. I trimmed the plastic shield down until all that was left of it is whats under the straps, that way it doesnt hold any crud in there.
 
BskisXJ said:
Darn! I guess I should of trimmed mine. Fit a little snug but went up fine without any trimming. And I used the grade 8 bolts with the washers, much cheaper then the nut strips. I got all the washers and bolts for about $8.
Click to expand...
"Washers"?

Are you talking about those heavy, square insert plates that come with aftermarket hitches, or did you actually use washers? If so, take them out and redo it -- it isn't safe.
 
Eagle said:
"Washers"?

Are you talking about those heavy, square insert plates that come with aftermarket hitches, or did you actually use washers? If so, take them out and redo it -- it isn't safe.
Click to expand...

He didnt really say he put a "hitch" on with washers. I understood him to put a "skid" on with them. Nothing unsafe about that. Maybe not the best situation, but not really unsafe.
 
Eagle said:
"Washers"?

Are you talking about those heavy, square insert plates that come with aftermarket hitches, or did you actually use washers? If so, take them out and redo it -- it isn't safe.
Click to expand...

Na, I used the square washers that come with most hitches. The ones that you have to fish thru the rear portion of the frame (unibody). It was much easier then I thought it would be.

One of these days I'm gonna take the hitch and skid off to clean everything up. Then I'll probably trim up that plastic cover.
 
Sorry for bringing up this ancient thread...I was searching around trying to get an idea on how to mount the factory skid plate, and i came across this thread.

I just got a skid plate off a fellow XJer that was letting one go. It did not come with hardware.

Im trying to get a good idea on how to mount the factory skid plate to the Jeep, and what hardware to get. Right now, i have the plastic cover over the Gas tank, and a class III hitch installed. I bought the Jeep this way.

How does it mount? Sounds like it uses the same mounting points as the hitch??

If so, what is the mounting order? Body-->Skid-->Hitch?

Also, IF it does use the same mounting points, what are they? Bolts? Studs? What size? I would like to know so i can replace the current hardware while im in there.

I have also read that the factory gas tank skids are well worth keeping if you beef them up a bit. How would i do this? Weld strips of steel to the bottom??

Thanks very much for your time, sorry for the newbish questions.
 
Frame -> Hitch -> Skid.
http://yuccaman.com/jeep/tankskid.html

tank_l.jpg


Jim www.yuccaman.com
 
The skid uses the same mounting points and hardware as the hitch. You will need to trim the plastic shield thats on there now. I trimmed all of mine ecxept whats under the straps but you can just trim the edges and the skid will fit.
 
Thanks YuccaMan... that really helps. BTW when are you tutorial writers going to learn to use target="_blank" in your <a href's??? lol ;)

What size and thread is the hardware? I would like to replace everything with new hardware since ill be back in there anyway.
Also what about the beefing question? Just add strips of steel and weld them to the bottom of the skid? Seems logical to me.
 
Muad'Dib said:
Thanks YuccaMan... that really helps. BTW when are you tutorial writers going to learn to use target="_blank" in your <a href's??? lol ;)
Click to expand...
Dunno. What's that do?
 
I recently upgraded the hitch bolts on my 90 to 1/2"x20tpi grade 8 bolts. I snapped the old hardware removing it with a 1/2" ratchet so it could not have been very strong.

I feel more at ease towing now.
 
Length isn't as important since you're going into the 'frame' void. I'd say at least 2.5" to start.

Going to try the code change; it's all self-taught so I haven't run across that one (or haven't paid attention to it when I have). Thanks.

Jim
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

1
question about rear bumper, shackle relocation and gas tank skid plate fitment
Replies
10
Views
3K
IslanderOffRoad
IslanderOffRoad
WGxj
97 xj Repair/Replace Rear Arches & Finish or Cover with QP Armor?
Replies
5
Views
58
DirtySouthXJ
D
W
Fuel Pressure Regulator & Long Cranks
Replies
1
Views
1K
Anak
Anak
M
New to my XJ & wrenching - How to choose parts and what to prioritize?!
2
Replies
28
Views
4K
flyin_ryan
F
OnTheRocks
Alternate Plan for the Rubicon Portion of Sierra Fest
Replies
1
Views
248
JC93XJ
JC93XJ
Back
Top