Super 8.8 build - need compatibility input

So I currently have the 8.8 in the starting stages of tear down and prep. While I'm going through dis-assembly and grinding, etc thought I'd reach out for any final input on my build plans before I drop all the $$ for parts.

This is not a D44 vs. 8.25 vs. 8.8 discussion. I have researched plenty of posts for that and have made my decision. I do have the stock 8.8 with LSD, 4.10 gears, 31 spline shafts and Discs.

Below is the list of parts for my rear axle build. Looking to see if anyone has experience with this particular combination of components or if anyone can identify any compatibility issues I may have in fitting them all together in this combination.

I think I have it all pretty well planned for my purposes (50/50 combination street/trail) But always better safe than sorry, right?

• Spring and Shock Mounts - 1" T&T Customs UBE
• Superior Axle & Gear's Super 88 Kit - 4340, Widen Axle and C-Clip Eliminator, etc.
• ARB Air Locker w/ 4.88 gears
• Riddler Differential Cover
• Flange to 1310 adapter

Also any necessary brake components that need to be replaced, Master rebuild and gear install kits, etc.

As for what it's going into; 92 XJ 4.0 HO w/ 64k, AX15, NP231, A/A SYE, Tom Woods Rear DS, Bilstein 5150's, Rusty's 3" Spring Pack, HD Offroad Shackle Relocation Brackets (approx 1.5" lift) and Iron Man 4x4 Adj. Rear Lift Shackles (up to 3.5" lift). Currently running 32 x 11.5 BFG MT's, also have 35 x 12.5 MT Baja Claws to swap over when ready.

Your thoughts?

should be very well setup... your best bet is to get another passenger side brake line and run it on the driver side with a short piece of hard line to thread into your existing brake line block.

The super 8.8 kit is kind of overkill for that setup. Given that you can install it anytime I would just wait. If you don't have alloys upfront and still run a 30 it would be better to dump the money up there. I can't see you breaking stock shafts with 35's and even with the extra 1/2 of width it gives you, you will still need aftermarket wheels to keep the tires out of the leaf springs which makes the extra width a mute point. I needed new wheels with a stock 8.8 and 10.5 tires.

I have a ridler cover on my 8.8 as well. I bought it sight unseen, much nicer than my front solid cover.

jonzer - it may well be complete overkill, but for the money it can still be worth it.

What I have into mine so far:
$30 - driveshaft flange
$100 - entire axle, w/4.10s
$130 - replacement brake rotors/pads/shoes/etc
$25 - perches
$30 - U-bolt plates (also raises bumpstops ~3")
$40 - U-bolts

Comes to 355 by my reckoning, new 4.10 gears + install kit alone for my 8.25 would have cost me $240, plus install labor costs. Throw in the disc brake upgrade and the fact that it's a stronger axle and I was convinced.

FunWun said:

So I currently have the 8.8 in the starting stages of tear down and prep. While I'm going through dis-assembly and grinding, etc thought I'd reach out for any final input on my build plans before I drop all the $$ for parts.

This is not a D44 vs. 8.25 vs. 8.8 discussion. I have researched plenty of posts for that and have made my decision. I do have the stock 8.8 with LSD, 4.10 gears, 31 spline shafts and Discs.

Below is the list of parts for my rear axle build. Looking to see if anyone has experience with this particular combination of components or if anyone can identify any compatibility issues I may have in fitting them all together in this combination.

I think I have it all pretty well planned for my purposes (50/50 combination street/trail) But always better safe than sorry, right?

• Spring and Shock Mounts - 1" T&T Customs UBE
• Superior Axle & Gear's Super 88 Kit - 4340, Widen Axle and C-Clip Eliminator, etc.
• ARB Air Locker w/ 4.88 gears
• Riddler Differential Cover
• Flange to 1310 adapter

Also any necessary brake components that need to be replaced, Master rebuild and gear install kits, etc.

As for what it's going into; 92 XJ 4.0 HO w/ 64k, AX15, NP231, A/A SYE, Tom Woods Rear DS, Bilstein 5150's, Rusty's 3" Spring Pack, HD Offroad Shackle Relocation Brackets (approx 1.5" lift) and Iron Man 4x4 Adj. Rear Lift Shackles (up to 3.5" lift). Currently running 32 x 11.5 BFG MT's, also have 35 x 12.5 MT Baja Claws to swap over when ready.

Your thoughts?

Click to expand...

Brakes will be fine. Most don't need a proportioning valve. Do a search on ARB's in 8.8s. I don't remember exactly but I do remember them not getting along. You're smart in replacing the stock carrier as it's a weak point in the 8.8. If you're going to wheel it get the tubes welded.

Tons of great info on the 8.8 swap:
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=371713

Mine:



Detroit, 4.88s, UBEs, on 35's. Next on the list is the super kit. This axle takes a beating!

Sounds like a good plan. I have the UBEs and they work really well.

As for the Super 88 kit and the ARB. A few deals I found just looking around pricing stuff out for my self are as follows.

Northridge4x4 has the Super 88 kit for 550 shipped to your door (normally 630 + shipping)

And a quote i received from 4x4group buy

4x4Groupbuy.com said:

Hi there,

It is $739.95 ARB is running a special right now


Buy any one (1) ARB Air Locker, locking differential and receive

one (1) ARB Compact Compressor (part number CKSA12) absolutely

FREE!

-OR-

Buy any two (2) ARB Air Locker, locking differentials and receive

one (1) ARB Hi-Output Compressor (part number CKMA12) AND

one (1) ARB Tire Inflation Kit (part number 171302) absolutely FREE!



Plus shipping

Thanks,

Jason

Click to expand...

Thanks for the input so far guys. Definitely helpful. I guess I left off some of the details to try and avoid an overly verbose post. Will definitely be welding the tubes up as they are known to spin otherwise.

As for rear brake lines etc; already have dual 8.8 pass side lines for longer length, running new hard lines and reusing the D35 brake line block, using YJ longer hose from subframe to brake line block as well as YJ parking brake lines.

Just finished the WJ BB and MC swap w/ ZJ proportioning valve spring. Still yet to install the WJ Knuckles w/ Akebono Calipers. Going to have to grind a bit off the calipers for fitment.

The super 8.8 kit may be a bit of "overkill" but that's how I role. Rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it. Build it right the first time I guess. I already have 15x8 3.75 BS AR Outlaw II's so the narrower 8.8 width shouldn't be the issue even without the super 8.8 kit. I think my biggest reasons for using this kit is for 4340 shafts and the C-Clip Elim. I am definitely a fan of the Riddler Covers or the BTF's very nice solid beefness.

Sticking with the D30 up front. Already have the Non-Disco D30 housing with 297 U-Joints. After finish the WJ Knuckle and disc swap up front running the JKS XJ/WJ OTK Steering setup with lifted Sway bar links, HD LCA Mounts, Braced Pass UCA Mount and OTA Trac Bar Mount.

Staying with Superior 4340 27 Spline shafts matched with 4.88's and ARB again. Avoiding the upgraded 30 splines due to ease of trail spares and not wanting the R&P, Carrier and Housing to become the weak link.

Any additional details for the ARB and 8.8 "not getting along"? The write ups I have seen so far are mostly if not all positive with this combo, I just wasn't sure with the C-Clip elim as ARB shows only the C-Clip w/ 31 Spline option. This shouldn't be a problem right? I've spent plenty of time over on the JU forum prior to deciding on the 8.8.

Thanks also for some of the pricing info. I have a line in on a Super 8.8 kit NIB for $500 shipped, that's if one other guy doesn't come through. Probably going to grab both ARB's at the same time as almost everyone is running the free compressor and air up kit currently.

Deadman 94 xj said:

B

Mine:

Detroit, 4.88s, UBEs, on 35's. Next on the list is the super kit. This axle takes a beating!

Click to expand...

Deadman, nice looking setup. What height UBE's are you running? Any issues with axle wrap, torsional load? Just don't want to run into the same issues as those running lift blocks.

I know it's really more of an apples to oranges comparison, but still changing the geometry in relation to spring mounting points. Sounds like you haven't had any issues, so that helps me feel a bit better about this choice.

^^^^ What rear bumper is that I NEED ONE!!!

FunWun said:

Deadman, nice looking setup. What height UBE's are you running? Any issues with axle wrap, torsional load? Just don't want to run into the same issues as those running lift blocks.

I know it's really more of an apples to oranges comparison, but still changing the geometry in relation to spring mounting points. Sounds like you haven't had any issues, so that helps me feel a bit better about this choice.

Click to expand...

IIRC they're 1". They're not Tnt UBEs though, home made. I haven't experienced any increase in axle wrap compared to stock perches. If anything it'd be less because the surface is larger and they're not much higher, if at all, than stock perches. You will get axle wrap though, regardless. It shouldn't be a problem. I needed a little more stability in the rear for other things. That's the reason for the traction bar.

Deadman 94 xj said:

IIRC they're 1". They're not Tnt UBEs though, home made. I haven't experienced any increase in axle wrap compared to stock perches. If anything it'd be less because the surface is larger and they're not much higher, if at all, than stock perches. You will get axle wrap though, regardless. It shouldn't be a problem. I needed a little more stability in the rear for other things. That's the reason for the traction bar.

Click to expand...

10/4 thanks for the info. That's exactly why I was sticking to the 1" UBE's to stay as close to the stock perch height as possible..

I have the 1.5" UBEs, I haven't had any noticeable axle wrap or anything from mine. Even with the added torque of the stroker.

One word of caution is, re-torque the bolts everyday after you swap the axles out. There are 4 grade 8 bolts on each UBE and when i took my jeep to get an alignment the guys at the shop were working on squaring up the rear end un bolted all the UBE bolts to adjust the axle and didnt use lock tite on re-install. I checked the next week to find that two of the bolts were missing from the UBEs on each side. Scary stuff, but as long as you recheck them you will be fine. (I've put over 45,000 miles on this setup now and haven't had an issue after this one event)