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rear drive line questions???

blazinjames

NAXJA Forum User
hey everyone,

Im pretty new to all this and trying to figure out what I should do once I start to lift me jeep.

I have a 6in used rusty lift, and I know once installed the drive line angle will be messed up.

I know it is recommended to get a sye kit and drive shaft, im guessing this is the easist way to do avoid vibrations?

ive also heard of just lowering the transfercase and getting a longer drive shaft? seems like that wouldnt be that much harder but alot cheaper?

what are the advantages and disadvantages of doing both?

thanks
 
at 6" a sye and double cardan shaft are mandatory.
On a side note I have some 6* steel axle shims from rubicon express for sale complete with center pins for $20.You will need these after you get a sye to point your pinion up at the t-case output.
I'm at 5.5" and the 6* shims were too much.....They'll probably work for you at 6" pm me if interested....
 
outlander said:
at 6" a sye and double cardan shaft are mandatory.
On a side note I have some 6* steel axle shims from rubicon express for sale complete with center pins for $20.You will need these after you get a sye to point your pinion up at the t-case output.
I'm at 5.5" and the 6* shims were too much.....They'll probably work for you at 6" pm me if interested....


I ran at 6.5" with no SYE for more than a year before getting around to installing one, without vibes. .75" TC drop and 2* shims in the rear.

MJR runs a hummer 242 with a slip yoke and 7" of lift, no SYE, no vibes.

Thats not to say that blazinjames won't need one, but its not manditory just because of a 6" lift.
 
Yes, with a YJ slip yoke.

You can get away with a lot more on early models than you can on late models.
 
blazinjames said:
hey everyone,

Im pretty new to all this and trying to figure out what I should do once I start to lift me jeep.

I have a 6in used rusty lift, and I know once installed the drive line angle will be messed up.

I know it is recommended to get a sye kit and drive shaft, im guessing this is the easist way to do avoid vibrations?

ive also heard of just lowering the transfercase and getting a longer drive shaft? seems like that wouldnt be that much harder but alot cheaper?

what are the advantages and disadvantages of doing both?

thanks

your new to all this, have limited tools, and your xj doesnt run and your starting with a 6" lift? good luck
 
I have two xjs, one runs and the other doesnt..im getting the one running first, then im going to decide which one I want the lift on and am going to start doing it.

I figure with this site, lots of hard work i can do it,

If i get stuck, i have a mechanic who can come and save me
 
blazinjames said:
I have two xjs, one runs and the other doesnt..im getting the one running first, then im going to decide which one I want the lift on and am going to start doing it.

I figure with this site, lots of hard work i can do it,

If i get stuck, i have a mechanic who can come and save me


im not busting on you. every body has to start somewhere. im just saying that with limited wrench experience, a 6" lift is the end point, not the starting point. please be careful, i just read your thread about jack stands.
 
I have the 6" short arm from Rustys. I couldn't even back out of the driveway untill I installed the Advance Adaptors SYE Kit and Tom Woods Drive Shaft. I would 100% reccomend it since my driveshaft was in a bind as soon as we lifted it. Once I put on the SYE kit I have had zero problems.

If you have limited wrenching experience, then I would definately get a mechanic to install your SYE kit.
 
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