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HD Drag Link

BenXJCA

NAXJA Forum User
Who makes a replacement HD drag link? For the stock steering set up? As I have bent mine.
TIA
 
I'm not sure if there is any afftermarket ones that are direct bolt ins but you can get one from a 98 grand cherroke with 5.9l and its from my measurements about25 to 30 %thicker so it should be stronger. I'm using one right now but will soon be converting over to a high steer setup.
 
Currie makes one, but I think you would also need to get their tie rod. They use larger tie rod ends.
 
Go with the ZJ V-8 parts. But look it over -- you will need to buy more than just the drag link, because it's set up slightly differently. However, it is much, MUCH beefier.
 
You need to get these part #
TRW DS1312 drag link
TRW ES3096 pitman arm tierod
TRW 2079S audusting sleeve
theses run alittle under 120 total.
For your tie rod set up i'd get 1/2 ton dodge tierods and get a nice chunk of 1/4 1 1/8 dom taped out for them If you need one let me know i'm getting ready to make some. i have to measure whats on my jeep right now i don't recall what the leanght was.
the dodge ends are ES2847R and ES2848L.
 
REDXJ4FUN

I would be interested in one of those tie rods. I have been looking for ways to beef up my steering.
 
I ordered the poison spider HD upgrade but it utilizes the stock drag link and you add a gusset to this. So do you think I would be better off getting the V-8 drag link and welding the gusset to it than welding the gusset to the stock one? Also another question about the drag link. With 4.5" of lift, the angle that it leaves the passenger side knuckle is pretty extreme. When that side of the axle droops does the angle that the drag link leaves the arm change at all? If it does, what is there to do about it? Is it a problem?
You guys kick A$$
TIA
 
The strongest stock style setup is the one from Currie. I saw the one on my buddy's XJ and it's beefy. But he had to pony up over 3 almost 4 bones for it. I made a crossover steering setup for much less that I think is stronger but I had to cut away the sway bar brackets for steering clearance
 
Problem with the Currie setup is that the added beef does nothing to improve the geometry. I may be wrong......... but those that I have talked to that are running the HD Currie TJ setup have indicated that it uses the stock geometry. This may be fine for a TJ trying to clear 33-35's, but an XJ needs 2-3" more lift than a TJ to do this (without major trimming of course) and by lifting more, the inverted Y setup will bind at the pass knuckle and pitman on full droop.

Stronger? Yes
Improved angles to eliminate TRE bind and promote longterm durability? Hmmmmm.....now why didn't they think of that? ;)

Seems to me an inverted Y out of DOM with the added bends to improve the geometry at the pitman and pass knuckle and beefier TRE's would sell like hotcakes to the modified XJ crowd. You could even make it an over the knuckle version.

PS, you'd better get a patent and market that baby quick! (Your secret's safe with me)



XJEEPER
 
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Yes, Currie made changes to the linkage to improve angles according to a phone conversation I had with one of their techs. But I'll wait before shelling out the shekels to see how these things work on the trail. Don't know if the ball joints are any stronger than stock as they use the original holes. Don't know if they eliminate the "dead spot" in the steering that some complain about under certain conditions. Fo now I'll stay with my homebuilt crossover that's easier to adjust, durable and has simple to replace spherical rod ends.

I've seen DOM based "upside down" stock style steering linkages someplace
 
I've heard good things about the currie set up. I only had experience with the Rusty's convertion and I was highly disappointed, The TJ type solid tie rod with a draglink close to the passanger side limits your turining radius by a lot. Also the Rusty's set up flexes/bows about two inches up and down when the box pulls on it. It's just cheap quality. But look into the currie and let us know how it goes. Hope that helped.
 
REDXJ4FUN said:
You need to get these part #
TRW DS1312 drag link
TRW ES3096 pitman arm tierod
TRW 2079S audusting sleeve
theses run alittle under 120 total.
For your tie rod set up i'd get 1/2 ton dodge tierods and get a nice chunk of 1/4 1 1/8 dom taped out for them If you need one let me know i'm getting ready to make some. i have to measure whats on my jeep right now i don't recall what the leanght was.
the dodge ends are ES2847R and ES2848L.

Something you mention above is confusing. The part you mention: DS1312, cannot replace the XJ drag link, it's the ZJ V8 upgrade for the XJ tie rod(DS1238 is the MOOG number for the XJ drag link).
ES3096L and ES2079 are the stock TRE and adjustment sleeve on the XJ drag link, and are also part of the ZJ V8 upgrade(with DS1312) for the tie rod.
Clear as mud.
 
I went to the parts shop. The guy said that there is no difference between the drag link for the 5.2L than the 5.9L. He actually showed me the moog one for the V8 and the only thing that was different is where the steering stabilizer attaches to it. It attaches to it at a different angle.
I went to the jeep dealer and the guy at the parts counter said that there is a different part number from the XJ drag link to the ZJ V8 drag link. He showed me both of them side by side. No visible difference other than that of the steering stabilizer taper angle.
WTF?
Also I checked under one of the brand new ZJ's at the dealer and the steering set up is not inverted Y. It has a wheel to wheel tie rod and a drag link that goes from the pitman arm to the passenger steering knuckle.
TIA
 
Ronbo said:
Something you mention above is confusing. The part you mention: DS1312, cannot replace the XJ drag link, it's the ZJ V8 upgrade for the XJ tie rod(DS1238 is the MOOG number for the XJ drag link).
ES3096L and ES2079 are the stock TRE and adjustment sleeve on the XJ drag link, and are also part of the ZJ V8 upgrade(with DS1312) for the tie rod.
Clear as mud.

You confusing your self If you had read my post prior to that one you will see that I am talking about the V8 conversion. Yes the ES3096L and the ES2079 are 91 on up xj parts as well as ZJ (both 6 and 8cyl) I have sitting in my lap a TRW master catalog and those are the parts i got from advanced auto parts when I did my upgrade.
 
So what is concluded? the ZJ V8 drag link is stronger or not? I mean I looked at them side by side with XJ drag link. Nothing caught my eye. What should I be looking for?
 
REDXJ4FUN said:
You confusing your self If you had read my post prior to that one you will see that I am talking about the V8 conversion. Yes the ES3096L and the ES2079 are 91 on up xj parts as well as ZJ (both 6 and 8cyl) I have sitting in my lap a TRW master catalog and those are the parts i got from advanced auto parts when I did my upgrade.

Yeah, I know exactly what parts are what, I have the same stuff.
I didn't understand why you listed the tie rod upgrade, followed by:
"For your tie rod set up i'd get 1/2 ton dodge tierods and get a nice chunk of 1/4 1 1/8 dom taped out for them. "
Unless you are giving him two different options.
As you noted, TRW calls DS1312 a drag link, when it's not really used as a drag link in either the ZJ or the XJ, the way Chrysler identifies it.

Ben, from what I've seen, the ZJ V8 drag link is physically the same as the XJ. It's the ZJ tie rod/adjuster/TRE that is the big difference. AFAIK, Currie is the only beefy drag link option resembling the factory stuff.
 
I have heard of a nice piece produced by Carolinia rock shop using ramcharger ends, But I have not seen it and can't seem to find any more info.

As far as the factory inverted Y, nomatter how you bend it the geometry from point a to point b will be the same and with greater lifts, bump steer and deflection will increase. To change the geometry you must change the points of attachment

IMHO :anon: I think a WJ style might be the hot ticket. :anon:
 
Ok I did have on error on the drag link its supossed to be a ES1310 Theres a miss print in my TRW book calling the DS1312 a draglink.. But the reason I said to use the ajusting sleave and th tierod was that his 89 like mine has a smaller threaded area in the threads and that where I've seen them break most often. and for the the 1/2 ton dodge parts, thats what i use to repalce the tierod set up from the draglink to the driverside knuckle. Its much stronger than even the v8 stuff and actually cheaper.
 
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