• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

OEM coil values for testing?

Johann

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Near Raleigh
Got ahead of myself and tested my coil before checking for spark on a No start condtion 98 JC 4.0. I'm going to go back and test from spark back next BUT-

My old multitester was one the fritz so I thought the Coil was bad and I ended up pulling it. Once out I test it with a new Klein tester and the Coil seems to be in spec from what was listed in this thread by Joe in post #7

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1042827

It had "Japan" stamped on it and has likely been in there for almost 200k but the values are in spec better than the Advanced Auto new one I just brought home. Japan = Toyodenso I assume?

OEM is supposed to be:

Toyodenso, primary 0.95 to 1.20 ohms; secondary 11,300 to 13,300 ohms

Diamond, primary 0.97 to 1.18 ohms; secondary 11,300 to 15,300 ohms

One coming out is:
Original 1.0 primary 12,940 secondary

new one (uninstalled): 0.8 primary and 9590 secondary

So the dilema is: Is the new one a dud out of the box? Worth putting in on the way to checking for spark since I have it (its a BWD made in Poland.)?

My wife drives this as a DD so I don't mind being thorough on the way through this tune up. We plan to drive this for another 200K!



I guess I will suspect the CPS next since most of the electronics on this XJ are bone stock. Though it is supposed to read like an open circuit correct? Put the leads to the B ac C terminals and no change in read out in resisitance "0.L". That is what mine is doing. Or should it be 0000? Might be a dumb question but there is some confusion in some of the search results.

This had good info:

http://www.naxja.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1114534&highlight=crank+position+sensor

But first to check for spark with plug and extra plug wire and work backwards. May need to buy a NOID light. Fuel pump is kicking on. Good pressure at the rail. Volt and Fuel gauges are reading on the dash with the CPS plugged in or unplugged. NSS seems OK, I dealt with that a couple years ago. No codes.

Frustrating.
 
Welp, put the old coil back in and it fired right up. Got spark this time! Seems strong- No sputter.

I did have the batt disconnected so the PCM likely reset. . Still leaning towards CPS if it fails again. Anybody who has tested their CPS successfully tell me which way a functioning one will test? Am I reading the meter correctly?
 
Back
Top