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Torque required to remove seized Cherokee front axle nuts?

I like the idea of, "If all else fails get that 3/4" breaker bar wedged against the ground and drive forward." I feel better knowing there's a last resort.

I have on order a Milwaukee 2767-20, which claims to have a nut busting mode of 1400 ft-lbs. Might be here this week or next. I'll try that. If it works, I keep the Milwaukee, if not it goes back to Home Depot.

I have already driven around to shops asking if they can bust the nut off. We have very little competition where I live and few shops. One shop near my house was gone. I went to Canadian Tire and the line was out the door for the service centre. I went to another shop and the guy told me to come back tomorrow and leave the Jeep with him. Not gonna happen.

I've heard some people ultimately cut the nut off, but seems like it would damage the threads on the shafts.
 
I want to see the drive forward method work! the impact would be cool to but its not the same F U to the axle nut haha.

I would be curious about trying an induction heater on something with such resistance to coming off.
 
Is there anyone in your area who works on big trucks? Like semis? They would probably have the impact that would do the job.

A key factor with an impact is the size of the air line. If someone is serious about getting the full performance out of their pneumatic impact they are going to be running a 1/2" air line on it. As you make local inquiries that might be an objective measure you can look for.

As has already been said, don't bother with that little handheld impact driver. Those are useful for things like door hinge screws and the like, figure things that are less than 1/2" in diameter.
 
I didn't intend to suggest a $1000 solution. Ha! Looks like a few torque multiplier on Amazon for $100 or less. 1" drive tho, probably have to find a 1" drive 36 mm socket.

When I got mine off, I borrowed the Milwaukee impact from the local tool rental shop. Sounds like you're a little more remote than I am, but maybe that's an option.
 
If the impact fails, the 3/4" 40" breaker fails, torque multiplier failes, and "drive forward" fails (snaps the breaker), I'll look for a semi shop, tow truck shop, or farm equipment repair shop. I haven't seen any here, but I haven't looked. There must be one somewhere on South Vancouver Island.

I've called the tool rental shops here and they don't rent out impacts, neither do auto parts stores here. We're a little behind the times in that and many other aspects. Thank goodness for online shopping and those American big box stores who were so kind to open a store here.
 
There is a question that can open up a whole can of worms.

My vote is yes. I don't believe in dry threads. I even use anti-seize on lug nuts.

There are arguments about how anti-seize alters the amount of friction and thus the amount of torque that should be applied to a bolt. You will have to determine your own course on that front.

Given that you live on an island I expect you have plenty of corrosion issues to contend with. Anti-seize can help.
 
Absolutely, I put either anti-seize, thread sealer, or Loctite on every bolt I touch.
 
Split the nut with a Dremel or simular cutting tool. dont go deep enough to hit the threads. once split, the nut will break free easy like. you can even wedge a cold chisel in the cut and spread the opening. just cut the darn thing and be done with it. slice and dice will beat it.

the other option is an oxy acetylene torch fine tip on the nut. A soldering type propane torch aint going to get enough heat into the nut fast enough. for the heat to work you need a high heat torch that can rapidly heat the nut without taking so long as to also heat the shaft. break the nut free while it is near red hot, and shaft is still relatively cool. a propane plumbers torch just dont put out enough heat to get the nut hot enough before also heating the shaft. you need pin point high heat as from an oxy acetylene torch

so cut it or heat it with high heat.
 
For the amount of money spent on that gun, he could just buy a new shaft & unit bearing and just replace it,

Even if the impact gets it off, would you want to re-use the nut and shaft ?
 
Wonder what the chance 's are that when the nut is finally removed the wheel bearing will be seized in the knuckle?
 
Thanks for the info blackJeep. I'll add the oxy torch to the list of options. The idea box keeps growing.

Wayne, I've already purchased the hub bearings. Impact gun will come in handy for other things I need to do around the cars and home. Sick of yanking a cord around.

jeep ride, I know the hubs will come off the knuckles because I have already removed them when I installed the PowerTrax No-Slip locker.
 
....... buy a new shaft & unit bearing and just replace it,

Even if the impact gets it off, would you want to re-use the nut and shaft ?

THIS. ^^^^


Sometimes trying to be cheap gets really expensive.

The 36mm nut threads on the stub shaft are likely fully decomposed to rust.
 
I kind of like the idea of buying the outer stub shafts, left & right. It's been a long time, but I sort of recall being able press the U-joints in with a socket. Problem is I'm having trouble finding the part number for these on Rock Auto. Anyone happen to know the part number for these outer stub axle shafts for a Dana 30, high pinion, non-ABS, non-disconnect?
 
As I thought; mine came off with a quick hit from the impact. If it was stuck like yours oxy acetylene would have been the next step. Has never failed before, and I've driven gm's for years so I have a lot of experience with wheel bearings!
 
Year ago I had a Tempo. I had to replace the drive shafts. I stood and jumped up and down on my 2 ft Craftsman breaker bar. No luck. I talked to a friend at work. He brought in a 4 ft breaker bar. It was like plink, and the nut was loose. I have a cheater bar about 4 ft for these situations. The newer cordless impacts are great too. I have a Dewalt. I think the Milwaukee's are better though.
 
The high torque Milwawkee battery operated impact rated for 1400 ft-lbs nut busting removed the axle nuts without breaking a sweat. I used the 2767-20 model. Not bad for a $300 impact ($225 USD). I guess I will return the Milwawkee 2860-20, which is the smaller brother but only rated for 600 ft-lbs nut busting. I had hoped to keep the lighter and smaller impact gun as it is easier on the wrist, but I cannot justify keeping both. The larger impact is more practical. So I've dodged having to get anything in a 3/4" drive, hotter torches, or doing the drive forward for the wrench connected method.
 
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