Bump Steer & stock XJ?

98 XJ 4WD automatic 105,xxx miles NP231/C8.25/D30.

My jeep is not lifted but whenever it goes over bumps at moderate speed the Jeep is extremely bumpy. Wobbles like crazy. I searched around a little bit and I thought a new steering stablizer would help but it doesn't seem like it would. What could it be? Most bump steer problems seem to be occuring on the Jeeps that are lifted but couldn't find a case like mine. What can I replace?

Sway bar bushings/control arm bushings/track bar/steering stablizer? Will this even help?

Is everthing else in good shape.Ball Joints, Track bar,Tie Rods etc.. It could be as simple as a toe ajustment.

I dont think its actually "bump steer" you are experiencing. Bump steer only becomes an issue if the trackbar and draglink arent parallel. On a stock Jeep, this isnt a problem.
I think you may have a slight (very slight) case of death wobble. Real death wobble will make you wet your pants so from what you describe, its not that bad. The problem could be caused a couple different things but I would start with the trackbar. Have someone sit in the Jeep and turn the steering wheel back and forth while you lay under it and put hands upon the mounting points of the trackbar checking for any side to side play (there shouldnt be any).

My 92 is going through the same thing. 80% of the problem was the TRE on the pitman arm. most of my steering is new from chasing the wobble.

Hmm I'll try that trackbar thing I guess I can go from there.

Is it just me but does it seem everyone with 100,000 miles on original parts thinks everything will last forever? Parts wear out, especially when you start reaching into the 100K mark. Time to rebuild the steering and suspension parts.

It's called "Normal Wear". Sure some might get more mileage, other less as everything is dependent on user maintenance. Have you greased all of your joints from day one? Most likely not. Without proper maintenance you can wear parts out in less then 20,000 miles.

Replace your parts, grease everything every 3-5000 miles and live a happy life with your XJ.

I bought it used lol so I don't know what it's supposed to be

So what all is expected to be replaced?

Ball joints, track bar, bushings, swaybar bushings...what else?

As suggested, get someone to sit in there and move the steering back and forth while you inspect it. I'd also suggest that you balance and rotate the tires, and get an alignment before you start randomly replacing parts.

3XJFamily said:

As suggested, get someone to sit in there and move the steering back and forth while you inspect it. I'd also suggest that you balance and rotate the tires, and get an alignment before you start randomly replacing parts.

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Trying this will help save some on parts that may not be needed but as I have also found, some parts are hard to tell if they are worn out. Even in a relaxed state (jacked up by frame rails and letting the suspension hang free), things are still under tension to some degree. It takes a good eye and good feel to know if something is worn out or has normal play.

Since most of the steering and some of the suspension parts are going to require you to get an alignment, it may be time and cost effective to replace them all at once.

Things that are normal wear items and will eventually need replacing are,

Control Arm bushings,
Track Bar,
Sway bar bushings and end links,
Ball Joints,
Unit Bearings
Tie Rod Ends
Shocks

Not as common but still wear items are,

Steering Box
Steering Dampner
Axle Seals
Axle Bearings
U-Joints

There are a lot of things that make up the front end and not everything wears at the same rate. A lot will depend on how much maintenance has been done and how hard it has been driven.

I have been chasing a pop noise and think it is narrowed down to the steering box. We thought it might be a pitman arm tie rod end but I replaced that. Track bar is a TNT unit, in great shape and the track bar mount has been welded to the frame, so it's not loose. I have inner and outer steering box braces and the bolts are at torqued correctly. I can replicate the pop and if you feel where it is coming from, the pop feel like it is in the steering box. That's my next project.

xj_mike said:

I have been chasing a pop noise and think it is narrowed down to the steering box. We thought it might be a pitman arm tie rod end but I replaced that. Track bar is a TNT unit, in great shape and the track bar mount has been welded to the frame, so it's not loose. I have inner and outer steering box braces and the bolts are at torqued correctly. I can replicate the pop and if you feel where it is coming from, the pop feel like it is in the steering box. That's my next project.

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I had a pop exactly like you describe. Mine ended up being a cracked frame behind the steering box. Welded it up and installed a c-rok steering box brace and all is good.

At least with the popping.....

menos said:

I had a pop exactly like you describe. Mine ended up being a cracked frame behind the steering box. Welded it up and installed a c-rok steering box brace and all is good.

At least with the popping.....

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I had thought about that when it started but I have done the c-rok brace and checked the frame, which did not show any problems. Even after this I am still getting the same thing. I may have to double check that again though. Thanks for the input.

trac bar loose at the frame on driver's side? EVERY MJ and XJ I have had so far had this problem and that was the cure to most of it!

Alright this is all I need right?



I do have question on these:
TIE ROD END, TIE ROD END AT PITMAN ARM -- OEM Quality And Fit For Dependable Service, Diagram Illustration # 12

TIE ROD END, TIE ROD END DRIVER SIDE TO ADJUSTING SLEEVE, LEFT HANDED THREAD -- OEM Quality And Fit For Dependable Service, Diagram Illustration # 12

And Control Arm Bushing kit Upper & Lower.

Let me know so I can put in the order

For the control arm bushings just buy the replacement control arms with the bushings already in them. The uppers are about $70 for the pair, the lowers about half that. The two bushings on the top of the front axle are the absolute worst. There is no room to swing a hammer or really get a press in there. I ended up dropping the front axle and beating them out with a combination of hammers and presses. And be careful of the bracket on the passenger side - it's "delicate" to say the least. There are a couple good posts on this board on how to beef up that side with some creative welding. Time well spent. And while its out do the track bar as well.

When you're done, do the tie rod ends, ball joints, and while that's being done do the front axle U-joins and unit bearings, your front end will be good as new!

Seriously, just buy the arms with the bushings in them. The best way I found to take the axle end upper control arm bushings out was to drill the rubber out, then beat the inner sleeve out, then cave in the bushing shell. Easy as pie with the axle on blocks out from under the car. Putting the new ones in - try the dry ice on the bushings and heat on the race trick. Probably the best chance of success with the axle still in place.

And only do one arm at a time unless you just take the whole thing out. Load the dice in your favor and PBlast the whole thing for a few days ahead of time.

Best of Luck,

Mark

if you're gonna try and save the arms or when you have to get the bushings out of the axle, rent the ball joint/u-joint press from your local parts store (the kit with all the black adapters and the C-clamp, not just the clamp).

I just replaced my lower arms w/ bushings included and my uppers with the moog problem solver bushings from rock auto and rented the press. It was a huge pain in the ass trying to replace the uppers. The frame bolts weren't budging so i had to get creative in trying to get them out. The axle bushings were the pain, I used chucks of 2x4 to act as spacers for the arms and pax side axle mount so that I would not collapse the arms or mount. It worked, it was a pain trying to get the clamp in there but I got it with only 3 bloodied knuckles . And mine's all stock!

It's a pain and requires patience but doable

GOOD LUCK!

For control arms, if the bolts won't budge, cut them with a 4" grinder and metal cutoff wheel. Use a face shield, gloves and safety glasses under the face shield. Make sure the guard is on the grinder as well (I've got the scar to prove that one!).

The bolts for the lower control arms are the same as the bolts for rear leaf springs. The bolts for the uppers are available on line, they have the tabs staked on them so they won't spin.

http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/XJ_Parts/Hardware/more3.html

Lower control arm bolts at the top of the page, upper control arm bolts at the bottom. They ship quickly, and it will save you a lot of grief.

Mark