Mild build-up questions: am I doing this right?

I have a 99 XJ Sport that is currently stock, and I'd like to change that. It's a daily driver, so I can't get too crazy with it. I'm leaning towards the following:
- RE6030 3.5" superflex kit w/OME nitrochargers and JKS discos
- 32" tire...BFG A/Ts on 15" steels most likely
- 4.10 gears: yeah, i could go to 4.56 on the stock chry8.25 rear, but I spend WAY more time on the highway than off...

So, my questions:
- Is 3.5" enough lift to warrant an SYE or t-case drop?
- What, if anything, would be required (or recommended even) outside of the 6030 kit? adjustable control arms, upgraded trackbar, etc...
- From what I've read, the lift install is a weekend upgrade for a competent shadetree mechanic (like me). Any gotchas I should look out for or special tools that would make the job easier? (I'm not currently planning on doing the gears myself...)

Thanks for the great forum, and any advice you all can provide!

Jon

first post and already a member, cool. welcome, and I'm sure someone will chime in shortly on your specific questions, but it sounds like a good DD/weekend warrior setup. also consider throwing a locker or two in when you regear.

BrettM said:

also consider throwing a locker or two in when you regear.

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yeah, but I don't want to put too much money in the stock rear. there's a Dana44 rear from an '87 XJ available locally, should I bite the bullet and upgrade to that (with a locker) since I'm regearing anyway?

On that note, does anyone have any thoughts on a locker? Selectability is key, so I think I'm limited to either ARB or OX. They're both expensive, but the cable-actuated OX has fewer points of failure, right? Am I missing anything?

I would say go for the 4.56's instead of the 4.10's. I have 4.56's / 32's, and I find that optimal for the type of on and off roading I do....

For the newer XJs, aka, yours, a SYE is required for much less lift than earlier ones. Yes I would recomend an SYE, at least a t-case drop. I would also recomend a trackbar (as I have a bracket system that came with my kit and its a waste.. I am just waiting to have enough $$ aside for school before I purchase a trackbar). Control arms are completely up to you. I didnt get control arms and I am doing fine. With that size tire, be prepared to trim fenders. I run 33x12.50s on 3.5 in of lift and had to cut quite a bit (still havent got around to the front yet, which I now regret after having to jump into a parking lot to avoid an accident and cuttin up a tire a bit) but it will look and ride great if you do and take your time to do it right.

Finally as for gears... As much as 4.56s will be deep, they will be nice. I am still running stock gears with my 33s... and its got... well... very little grunt to it. I get great gas mileage (its a 5 speed so i can choose shift pts and such, so that might explain it) but I definately need to regear. I would recomend 4.56s if you EVER plan to go bigger. If not I would say its a toss-up. As you said, 4.56 is def recomended and I have heard nothing but people talking crap about 4.10s and they always wish they went deeper... so just a thought. I have no personal experience with it yet so i can talk too much. And I would definately say to get the 44 if the price is right. Theres my 2 cents.

Scott

ps, if you dont want the 44, how much is it? I have a freidn in MD and if the price is right, hell, i may just take it

sounds like a good set up... if you have the money get a SYE... you can always go bigger later if you wish and seriously it is doing it right... i have a PORC sye and it was shipped to my house for 190. 20,000 miles later still going strong. other than that, you will need new brake lines- extended and perferably steel braided, new steering stabilizer (should come with kit i think, if not get one! the stock one is weenie), get full leafs and shackles if you can try not to use blocks, drop pitman arm, sway bar discos (maybe already mentioned, probally new rear drivetrain work - front will be ok aka new driveshaft. ummm thats about it i think...pretty much bolt on. oh locker an e locker should be a little cheaper than an air locker but my personal choice would be a detroit and i think they should make a selectable but mines not... oh and the 44 wait till later if only on 32's and not much extreme wheeling... ummm ok

I am running the 3.5 kit on my 98 with no sye and no transfer case drop and no vibe's. I have 10,000 miles on it like this and no problem's either. I just drove to vegas and back like this cruising at 75 to 80 with no problem's. All xj's are different though so there is no way to tell till you do it. I am still running stock gear's with a auto but I am planning on upgrading to 4.56 for the perfect all around gear but I am running 33's now. On my 32's I had on the trip to vegas it only cost me 350 in gas to drive 2200 miles That isn't to bad for 3.55's and 32's...lol

I've not seen anyone mention recovery and armor.
Recovery points are mandatory, you will get stuck, and you will need to tug on something. Let's not make that an axle tube.
Armor is a very good idea, the rockers are vulnerable because of the longer wheelbase, the gas tank will take a beating becase of the departure angle and the T-case is usually not protected and also vulnerable because of it's location.
You're lift plan sounds good, an SYE might be needed if you get vibes, I'd set aside the money for it.

87manche said:

I've not seen anyone mention recovery and armor.

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a very valid point - however all of this was set in motion by the fact that my current tires are rapidly approaching racing-slick status...new tires means upgrade time, and upgrade == bigger, and that means lift+gears (i'm sure i don't have to explain that here, but oh well). armor and recovery gear will be covered with phase 2, which will follow this as soon as my wallet recovers

of course. i'll probably pick up some tow hooks with this round just to cover that

ok, I decided to go ahead and get the 44. I know it needs brake work; should I just fix the drums that are on it now, or go ahead and do a disc conversion while it's out and torn apart for gears (and possibly the locker)? How hard is it to find the parts needed for the ZJ disc swap? I found this kit from The Streetrod Mfg. Co. that would end up running about $600 for brackets, calipers, and rotors...are there any other kits to look at?

Question...is there any rhyme or reason to whether or not the 97+ XJ's need a SYE with a 3-4" lift? Does it have anything to do with which rearend, transmission, etc. that it has? It's funny...i talked with a guy running a RE 5.5" lift...he has no SYE and claims to have no vibes. I'm looking at doing the same basic thing that the original poster is. Thanks.

John

I have 3" coils and spring pack and 2 sets of .75" spacers up front on my 96. I have a SYE, and CV shaft. Stock trackbar, and CA's. It drives fine but I know it would be tons better with adjustable CA's and an HD trackbar. I think I have come to the decision that I am not going to put anymore cash into my 96 though as I am saving for another vehicle.

I also have a really clean 01 that just sits in the driveway. I put 30's on it and did a BB to give me the extra room. I went with a coil spacer and a shackle. I got pretty good vibes from that. I haven't fixed it yet b/c I rarely drive the thing. I will probably do a TC drop on it. Both XJ's have the same rear axle so I'm not sure why the 97 and ups are more finicky.

I have heard of people that claim to have 5.5" of lift and zero vibes. I don't buy it. I think if you change the geometry that much...it's gonna throw angles off.

Welcome jgs....sounds like you have a good plan for your Jeep. If I was not going to go with another vehicle, I would definitely do the control arms and trackbar. I'd probably do RE drop brackets too as I've heard that really makes a huge difference on how it handles/drives on the road. I'm like you in that my Jeep is a DD and it's nice to have it behave respectably on the open road.

Do the conversion.

I swapped a d44 into my '92. I R&R the drum brakes with new drums, pads, wheel cylinders, etc. For not much more money I could have done the conversion.

Hindsight is 20/20.

As far as the lift install goes, start soaking all the bolts w/ PB Blaster.

BTW Welcome to