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Mild XJ build questions

DD196XJ

NAXJA Forum User
New member here with some questions about a mild XJ build. Not new to XJs, had a 94 2wd daily driver for 5 years that stayed pretty stock and did surprisingly well on mild trails, my son had 2 XJs built pretty stout for Az offroading. Currently have an 86 Samurai I've had for 12 years, mild build, it will go where the Rhinos go and then drive home. Not great for traveling very far on road but it's been fun otherwise. I've got 2 granddaughters now that are ready to go wheeling and another XJ is the only choice, I need 4 doors and a back seat.

I can buy any year here in Arizona with any mileage and zero rust to worry about. It seems the popular choice is the '99 because of possible cracking head issues with 2000-01 years. Is there a cooling issue that causes the cracked head? Also, I read somewhere that 2000-01 had a unibody upgrade that made it stronger, any truth to that? I'll look for an 01 if the unibody is worth it and the cooling/head is manageable. Might as well get the newest year available.

Want to keep it totally driveable and safe but better offroad. No rock crawling just able to go way out there and back on the old prospector roads and desert trails.

What's a good combination of lift & tire size that doesn't require long arms and SYEs and regearing etc? Planning to start off with a stone stock driver so I know what's in it unless a nice unhurt road wheeler pops up. Any preferred brand for a mild 2-3" lift? Shocks for my application?

Thanks in advance. Let the spending begin.:thumbup:
 
I would recommend old man emu springs and either bilstein shocks or emu, its a lot of money up front but you wont regret it!
 
I would recommend old man emu springs and either bilstein shocks or emu, its a lot of money up front but you wont regret it!


Ditto. I really like my OME/DPG hybrid lift.

Specs are in signature.

Two inch lift and 30 inch tires will probably do anything you want for fire and mine roads with no aggressive off road trails used.
 
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The 0331 head cracking is overhyped, and easily prevented, or fixed. 2002+ 0331 heads from TJ and WJ Jeeps are stronger, and bolt on an XJ. For mild to moderate 4wheeling, any year will do. I consider 1998-99 the best years, but would certainly buy a 200-01 with the right options/condition/low miles.

I have been very pleased with a Rubicon Express 3.5 lift and 31x10.5x15 tires.
 
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OMEs suspension (coils & leafs) and Bilsteins shocks in four corners for the best 2"lift and no larger than 30" tires....it may rub the rears when offroading

for your intended use I would keep it stock and just to use Bilsteins ...dont need MT tires...

for the AZ heat I would go with a 98-99...,
modern body style, no head swap required, HPD30 (non critical for your plan) and and better e-fan than previous years = better A/C.

Please be sure you pick a NON ABS version, so you'll have a Chrysler 8.25 in the rear...instead of the weaker d35
 
I can buy any year here in Arizona with any mileage and zero rust to worry about. It seems the popular choice is the '99 because of possible cracking head issues with 2000-01 years. Is there a cooling issue that causes the cracked head? Also, I read somewhere that 2000-01 had a unibody upgrade that made it stronger, any truth to that?

What's a good combination of lift & tire size that doesn't require long arms and SYEs and regearing etc?

The 1997+ chassis was upgraded, adding structural strength, so any 1997-2001 has the same body structure.
1999 is the preferred year due to the HP30, distributor ignition and a single catalytic converter.
The head problem is exaggerated. We hear about every cracked head but never about the ones that last the life of the vehicle.
The thing I dislike most about the late models XJ is the dual mini-cat setup. Non-California spec 2000s have the single cat system, where all-Cali specs XJs have them.

I like and have installed several Old Man Emu lifts and recommend them for a coordinated package of spring and shocks.
30" or 31" tires are the maximum I would run without re-gearing. Even then, top gear is weak, requiring more downshifting than when stock.

97+ XJ are more susceptible to rear driveshaft vibs, when lifted. Keep the lift under 3" and use a transfer case drop (3/4"-1"), along with rear axle shims to correct the u-joint angles.
Works OK, in most cases, but the preferred solution is an SYE and a new CV driveshaft.
Taller tires will touch the LCAs, on hard turns, requiring adjusting the steering stops. Aftermarket LCAs, new wheels(less offset) and/or wheel spacers will cure it too.

Budget for an aftermarket track bar, a beefy tie-rod and disconnects, for the front end plus skids all around. Bump stops and brake lines may need to be adjusted, relocated or extended.
The thing that makes the whole package work is taking your time to properly set up the u-joints angles, front end alignment and the bump stops.
There is a long list of other things you may want to do, this is just the start. Just Empty Every Pocket.
 
Thanks for the great replies, got a good idea what to look for. I like the idea of a 2001 vs a 1999 because it's had 2 years less heat to dry stuff out. Is the head problem caused by something failing or does it just happen? Buying a 13 year old XJ how would you know if it's going to fail? Anything else to really check out? Is there a preferred vendor NAXJA likes to use?

thanks
 
It has been reported both from overheating and just happening.

There are some part changes for the 2000-2001 years. For example, the exhaust hanger at the transmission, the transmission mount, and the crossmember are all different. As someone else said, the A/C works differently too. On earlier models, if the compression is running, so is the fan. On the 2001 its all based on coolant temperature and A/C pressure. Plus 2001 models got the mini-cats on the exhaust which are notorious for generating cat efficiency codes/check engine light. You may be more likely to get a Dana 35 rear axle on the 2001 and definitely will get a low pinion Dana 30 (unless a PO has changed them). And 97's came with composite rotors and 2001's came with cast. But you can go either way as long as you have the wheel bearings to match.
 
IMO most 0331 head failures are caused by owner neglect of routine maintenance, and abuse. The 0331 does have some design issues, but nearly all of them are trouble free. As with any XJ look for rust problems.
 
To theOP, Overheating for any reason does significantly increase the chance of problems with the heads. Be wary of these years and check the head before buying. It may be FS because the owner knows about a problem they don't want to fix and are hoping you don't notice.
 
I'd go with 1.5" - 2" lift (Moog CC784 coils, I think, and Crown "HD" leaf springs) and 30" tires or stock & 235/75/15s. Quality shock absorbers, maybe some brake upgrades if you want (ZJ rear disc, high end pads in front or WJ swap) and call it a day.
The stock cherokee + skid plates will get you damn near anywhere you want to go - you just might not take the biggest, most manly line to get there.
 
I'd go with 1.5" - 2" lift (Moog CC784 coils, I think, and Crown "HD" leaf springs) and 30" tires or stock & 235/75/15s. Quality shock absorbers, maybe some brake upgrades if you want (ZJ rear disc, high end pads in front or WJ swap) and call it a day.
The stock cherokee + skid plates will get you damn near anywhere you want to go - you just might not take the biggest, most manly line to get there.

I believe this spring setup will get you very close to the Up Country package. The people who have done it like it. I second getting good shocks. Shocks like Monroe Sensa Tracs may be good for highway but not the greatest off road.

A 2.5-3" lift with some 30's looks nice and won't cause any rubbing with stock control arms.

If the thought of driving over a car or sofa has crossed your mind, best to go big from the start.
 
Other than looking for water in the oil (a fresh oil change can hide this) how would I check the head or to tell if it's been overheated? It sounds like a '99 might be the way to go. I guess an expedition style XJ is what I'm thinking of after looking around here. We've been perfectly happy with the Samurai with 2" lift & 235/75s, it goes places in 2wd that bigger rigs struggle with in 4wd. A drivable XJ will give us lots more range and the 4 doors & back seat we need now. Writing all the various possibilities down and will sort through and make some choices.

To Tim_MN, this is Arizona..... rust is illegal!:D I spent 48 years in NW Pa so I know about salt and rust. The 94 Az 2 door XJ I had needed a new O2 sensor when I still owned it 5 years ago. Having changed them before on Pa rust buckets, I was ready for a fight to the death. It cracked loose with a wrench and I screwed it out with my fingers....the gold finish still showed on the threads....that was when I knew I loved Az!
 
Pull the oil filler cap and look at it. Does it have milk residue? Then look straight down into the oil filler cap hole. Believe it or not, that's where it cracks, right there between the rockers for cylinders 3-4. Any evidence of milky oil, "tan lines" etc are evidence that the head is cracked. You can also look on the intake side right around cylinder 4 for the casting number. It will say 0331, 0720, 0630, etc. If the head has already been replaced it could have been a clearwater head, etc. But if it was a newer 0331 head then it would say TUPY when you look down the oil filler hole. TUPU heads are the good 0331 heads. I put one on my 01 XJ after the thermostat failed. If it does have a crack and the oil pressure is still good and nothing looks bad, you can figure about $750 for the repair. The real killer is when too much coolant ends up in the oil. Then you end up with low oil pressure from washed bearings.

Expedition style will be nice. The XJ is a very capable vehicle. I never lifted my 01 XJ because it did was very functional stock. Mostly what I needed it for was fire roads and the like. On my 97 XJ I've replaced the previous owners 2-2.5" budget boost with a proper 2-3" OME lift.

Buying any XJ at this point will probably mean some repairs and replacements. I'd go for the one that you can make the best and just figure in fixing some oil leaks and suspension parts. And don't get one with ABS!!

Don't worry about the automatic transmission. The AW4 is one of the most reliable ever built. Seems to outlast the engine and folks who bought spares thinking they'd need them haven't needed them and have a hard time selling them because nobody else needs them either.

You'll have to choose between a NP231 and a NP242 transfer case. The NP242 has full time 4WD in addition to 4Hi and 4Lo but much more limited aftermarket support. The NP231 has no full time 4WD, only 4Hi and 4Lo. The NP242 is a good transfer case, but to do a SYE you'll either need to do the hack 'n tap or call Tom Woods Driveshaft for a new main shaft. The SYE is needed for pretty much any lift over 1". I would *not* recommend a transfer case drop as this puts extra stress on the motor mounts and also changes the angle of the exhaust hanger. unless you find a way to adjust it.
 
what part of Arizona are you in?
 
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