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radius arms or stock short arms

Israel

NAXJA Forum User
I'm dreading some of the responses I might get to this question so let me start off by saying that I've been searching for the past week or two through this marvelous forum and I've spun myself in so many circles changing my mind what to do that I just need to come out and ask for suggestions.

I've got a 78 ford f250 dana 44 that I picked up for a song. I want to shorten it with waggy or EB shafts from Warn and fab something up to put it in my 96 XJ. I plan on 35s and maybe someday 37s on 5" of lift with generous fender trimming. I'll be throwing in gears to the flavor of 5.38 and using a detroit soft locker for my traction needs. I'm fairly easy on the throttle so I'm hoping I won't have too many breakages.

I've read all about some of the nice 4 and 3 link set ups that some of you have built and while idealy I'd like to go that route, I think something like that would be beyond my ability to design correctly. I can weld and design well enough, but they seem to only work really well if you have a great understanding of the geometry and physics involved.

So I figure I can either duplicate the factory bracketry from my d30 over to the d44 and continue to use the short arm design or try a radius arm design with one long arm going from a custom crossmember to the bottom of the axle and another arm from the top of the axle to the center of the long arm.

Obviously, like everyone else, I want to go the route that will give me some nice flex as well as a good ride on and off-road.

Any suggestions?
 
I would suggest an aftermarket kit that comes pre-built for your needs, so that you won't have to do any guess work. Rubicon Express sells axle kits for the dana 44 which would be extremely useful to you, and if you should choose to go with any long arm kit, I think you'd get the desired ride quality. Full traction has a long arm kit which utilizes the upper arm mount on the body, but a lower arm mount which is further back. Other companies such as TNT, Clayton Offroad, Rusty's Offroad and Rubicon Express have kits that use a "radius" arm setup. You probably knew all this, but when it comes to axle location, etc., I personally would go with a pre-built kit. Now, I don't know what you'd like to do, but if I was in your position, you know my stance.
 
first off. is this a daily driver? how long will you have to finish your conversion? I have a D44 front for my XJ that will be installed in a couple years (just taking my time and by then I will change as usual) Is the D44 you have leaf sprung or does it have radius arms? If your gonna get it cut down who ever does that for you I would have put the mounts on at the same time. just my pennies.
 
if you really can weld well enough, just copy the URF disappearing 3 link. there are enough pictures online, and a few others are copying it, that you should be able to fabricate it without having to actually figure out the geometry of the suspension.
 
Or copy my mid arm.......though it's not as cool as a long arm. :) It is much simpler to build. If you have basic welding skills it's not a big deal at all. I can give you some tips that would make it easier to build than mine was, if you're interested. No complaints on how it works.........from me or anyone else. :D

BTW, since you're talking about fabricating, and not bolt on, this should be on our cool new advanced tech forum.
 
Having copied Richard's mid arm, I'd question if it's simpler to build. From a technical standpoint it's simple, but I'd say that actually building it was the least fun I've ever had with metal.
If you really want to avoid the extra work, go J arm. This way you don't need to mess with your frame mounts, at all.

Paul
 
Although aftermarket would be a fairly fool-proof option, I've got a bad case of "hell, I could build that for 1/8 - 1/4 of the price they are charging for it".

Yes, it is my daily driver and I hope to have it completed by the end of summer so I have a few months left to hit the local trails before the gates close for winter.

The URF 3 link didn't seem to appeal to me when I came across it, but I'll give it another look. I'll also have to search up Richard's mid-arm since I can't remember seeing anything on it.

I stumbled across a thread with a link to "Old Man"s page with some description into his design of a radius arm set up. It looks like it just might be the ticket for me.

Thanks for the suggestions so far!!!

Oh, and I didn't post in the advanced fabrication section because I don't consider this project advanced since I'm just looking to copy someone elses work instead of designing my own.
 
Paul S said:
Having copied Richard's mid arm, I'd question if it's simpler to build. From a technical standpoint it's simple, but I'd say that actually building it was the least fun I've ever had with metal.
If you really want to avoid the extra work, go J arm. This way you don't need to mess with your frame mounts, at all.

Paul

Paul, I say that comparing it to the URF 3 link, which to me is the only long arm set up worth doing because it doesn't sacrifice ground clearance. Well, FarmerMatt did a good job of getting his radius arm mounts tucked up tight, too. Ours is easier to build compared to CRASH and Jes's.....at least it looks that way to me.
 
Israel said:
The URF 3 link didn't seem to appeal to me when I came across it, but I'll give it another look. I'll also have to search up Richard's mid-arm since I can't remember seeing anything on it.

I stumbled across a thread with a link to "Old Man"s page with some description into his design of a radius arm set up. It looks like it just might be the ticket for me. Thanks for the suggestions so far!!!

Oh, and I didn't post in the advanced fabrication section because I don't consider this project advanced since I'm just looking to copy someone elses work instead of designing my own.

Here's a thread with some info about my setup, and there are others.

Mid arms

The LCA frame mounts can be made much easier than the way I did them, though mine are plenty stout.
 
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